is it better to use existing damper or make a sheet metal will i keep more heat using my existing damper?
once my stove is in i never plan on removing it
once my stove is in i never plan on removing it
block off plate question
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If you go to a good sheet metal worker that does duct work with a cardboard template of your stove they can make you a great item which will seal off, give you better draft and keep heat from going up the stack. I'd definately go that way.
iceman said:
You want a block off plate just above the lintel, which is the angle iron at top of fireplace opening just inside.
Is there any advantage to installing the block off plate just above the lintel? My firebox has a perfect little notch all around exactly flush with the top. I could slide 3 edges of the block off plate into this notch and screw the front edge up into the lintel. I noticed that the block off plate designs on this site specify installing it a couple of inches higher. Is there a specific reason?
Most suggest installing above the lintel because most lintels are made out of 1/4" or larger angle iron. Not easy to just tap some screws in. As long as you cover the area and get a tight fit around, your fine where you want to put it. And looks like it will make it easier for you. Easier is betterudris said:
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Hogwildz said:Most suggest installing above the lintel because most lintels are made out of 1/4" or larger angle iron. Not easy to just tap some screws in. As long as you cover the area and get a tight fit around, your fine where you want to put it. And looks like it will make it easier for you. Easier is betterudris said:
Hog I saw pictures of you on an install... Feel like driving up to mass??...lol
can i just cut my damper plate to fit the liner, put insulation around any gaps between the liner damper and then seal all the way around damper with sealant or do i really need to make a plate?
iceman said:
Its possible... but not likely the best or easiest way to do it - you want a pretty good seal around the liner. The damper plate is likely going to be somewhat tough to cut in the right place, and get back in there where the liner comes through. It would probably be easier to do by taking out the damper plate, and cutting a new block off place once the liner is in... and then seal it up.
iceman said:Hogwildz said:Most suggest installing above the lintel because most lintels are made out of 1/4" or larger angle iron. Not easy to just tap some screws in. As long as you cover the area and get a tight fit around, your fine where you want to put it. And looks like it will make it easier for you. Easier is betterudris said:
Hog I saw pictures of you on an install... Feel like driving up to mass??...lol
can i just cut my damper plate to fit the liner, put insulation around any gaps between the liner damper and then seal all the way around damper with sealant or do i really need to make a plate?
Ice, realistically you can do it however you want. If you do it that way, you need to use a fire rated insulation like kawool etc. Reg. fiberglass is a no go.
Things to consider though........
A block off plate is just what it sounds like. If for whatever reason you have a problem in the chimney, fire, blowout etc., the block off plate will slow if not stop any blow back into the house. Secondly, with a top plate up top, and a block off below. You now have dead air space the entire length of the chimney around the liner. This acts as a natural insulator. not to mention helps keep any draft out & also helps keep the chimney liner warmer longer. Just putting insulation in there does not really block anything. Its merely filling a hole with a non solid, non fastened plug. Now if you put a block off plate in, and want to put some kawool on top thats a plus, but not a must. As I said, its up to you what you feel comfortable doing. But for the added few bucks and granted some patience & time to make the plate, IMO its well worth it.
I can try and draw ya up a kinda template to use as a guide if you decide on a block off plate. When I did Newtown's, I found an easier way and it looked clean and was easier than when I did mine.
If the weather wasn't so sheety, I'd might take ya up on the travel. But between the weather, work & this house I have no time.
Any help ya need by type or phone, I can give all ya need from my end. Granted I have a few hand tools that make fabricating the plate easier. These days I think HD even sells them. Basically ya need a sheet of metal from HD or Lowes, good set of right & left tin snips, and a set of hand brakes. a drill or cordless, a straight edge and a caulk gun & caulk. Oh and some self tapping metal screws and maybe tapcons & masonry drill bit if the old firebox is brick or stone. Its not real hard. Just takes time and patience. Theres alot of guys from the forum in Mass, I am sure one of them is close enough to give you a hand. Cmon guys, someone step up to the plate?
Lemme ask ya this.......
how flat is the damper area? can u get away with a flat pc or pcs of sheet metal and fasten right to the perimeter of the damper? or is it angles upwards?
Just re-reading your question. If you can cut the damper area so that the liner comes through relatively tight ( withing a couple inches. You might be able to do that. then just make a smaller plate to cover the gap between the liner and damper opening. Take some photos if ya get a chance. just have to make sure the damper is solid and sealed around the perimeter, then around the liner after its through. Gonne be hard to line the liner up to the stove I think, little moving room for liner if hole is not in just the right place.
Ice - if you want - would be happy to lend a hand. In all likelihood - I have the materials around here and the tools to cut the plate. If there's something else in your setup that is of concern - I could take some pictures and post up for everyone else's evaluation. You want to make sure this is done right.
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