Blower Bearings, “Shkiby” Brand

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Mar 1, 2012
137
Central CT
Anybody familiar with Shkiby bearings?

I dunno about these, my blower is noisier than ever!
 
Matt, dunno.

First thing I noticed right away was the OEM bearings look
of a much higher quality, they’re metal throughout.

SO I’m gonna pull the news ones off again and compare.
That may be a least a week away as something else is benched
at the moment and we’re still burning here.

For the curious I’ll report back. It could be my infamous
bumbling again. A bumbler I is, I tells ya!

I break to fix and fix to break.
 
just had to deal with bearings on 2 bandsaws. Kroil to the rescue, to get them rolling again then add a heavier lube. Wood dust gets in there, sealed not withstanding, and binds them up tight.
 
What are the bearings on? Stove blower?
 
begreen: Yep.

Reviving this thread ‘cuz I never dove back in last year.
Needless to say, last winter was noisy.

Anyhoo, I’ve got both blowers on the bench and fooling
around with different bearings from the above batch.

The Crux: One or two wave washers? Seems to me this
design has one backing the outside bearing. I wonder
if getting another for the inside bearing will increase
motor longevity, as they’re supposed to reduce friction.

What do you think, gang?
 
… it’s probably not a coincidence that the bearing that failed
was on the inside where there was no wave washer.
 
Since I’m such great company, I’ll continue to talk to myself.

I’m beginning to suspect the only purpose of those annoying C-clips
is to guide the guy pressing on those bearings at the factory. I got rid
of the interior one I mangled last time I cracked the motor open and
VOILA she’s purring again. Gonna pick up a pair of spring washers
and reassemble both and be DONE with this once and for all.

Fin
 
  • Haha
Reactions: GG Woody
Since I’m such great company, I’ll continue to talk to myself.

I’m beginning to suspect the only purpose of those annoying C-clips
is to guide the guy pressing on those bearings at the factory. I got rid
of the interior one I mangled last time I cracked the motor open and
VOILA she’s purring again. Gonna pick up a pair of spring washers
and reassemble both and be DONE with this once and for all.

Fin
I replaced 2 bearings on a shop vac this spring. There was one washer on the drive end that fitted into a plastic end cap.
They could be for spacing, or structural reinforcement. They would have presses in a factory, so they should only be pressing on the inner race. Mine was not a spring washer though, it was flat. Depending on the race cover material, a washer could protect the bearing too. Some are rubber or some other synthetic material, some are stainless steel. Were you able to get the original bearing number?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Otis B Driftwood
I replaced 2 bearings on a shop vac this spring. There was one washer on the drive end that fitted into a plastic end cap.
They could be for spacing, or structural reinforcement. They would have presses in a factory, so they should only be pressing on the inner race. Mine was not a spring washer though, it was flat. Depending on the race cover material, a washer could protect the bearing too. Some are rubber or some other synthetic material, some are stainless steel. Were you able to get the original bearing number?


That’s a very good point and an EXTREME oversight on my part.
Granted, the ones I’m replacing seem to be of a higher quality
( ain’t that the way with “OEM” replacement parts? ) than the
ones I’ve got now, I’m gonna grab their numbers for the future.

Thanks!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Whitenuckler