BLOWER MOTORS AND SPEED CONTORL QUESTION.

[hnkstang50]

im looking to find if there are any options for me in alternate blower motors for my stove due to bearing issues with the current fasco. on grainger.com i found this dayton blower. it is a a psc style blower instead of a shaded pole. i read on fascos web site that the psc is a better blower and runs half the amperage so it can run cooler. also read that is is ok to repalace a shaded pole wtih a psc style due to goin with a lower amperage. here is the linke

(broken link removed)

everything looks the same as my blower for specs. but if you click on compliance and restrictions is says cannot be used with speed controls.. why is this?

 

[jtakeman]

The controller on your stove is designed to control a shaded pole motor. Changing to a PSC motor will have ill effects. 1ST being the controller will have no effect on speed control, The fan will run at full speed all the time. PSC need a totally different speed controller. This is due to the capacitor. Hard to explain. But that blower just will be haedaches.

Grainger does have some shaded pole replacement blowers. 2C647 is the alternate. Check link

(broken link removed)

But I think you will find its a wolf in sheeps clothing. The blower will have a Fasco motor most likely. But worth a shot anyway. Price is cheap enough.

If you can post the specs on the fasco motor, I can try to do some leg work. I need the shaft size, length and direction. I also need the RPM and amp draw.

 

[hnkstang50]

thanks i figured they said that for a reason...

my blower is fasco part number 7021-11832. cust. p/n pu-4c442. im pretty sure its a 140 cfm blower. 115 volts 60 hz 1.05 amps 3000 rpm class b. the entire blower casing end to end is about 6 inches. motor is about 3 1/2 inches wide. shaft is about 4 3/4 long. it also says T.P. AO sealed ball brg. (i am not apposed to getting rid of the ball bearings. possibly like this blower (broken link removed)

if that dayton ends up just having a fasco motor that would be a dispointment. thanks for helping out.

 

[jtakeman]

6FHX5 has a fasco motor, look at the clips in the photo. Fasco trade mark(the clips are what fasco uses to hold the end cover on). A.O Smith uses a thin strip of metal that you bend in place.

I really think you would be better off with a Jakel. I would save a fan housing assembly and purchase the Breckwell blower(or try to find a cheaper jakel blower) and scab the motor for your blower. I just can't find any OEM Jakel motors in OEM yet. Or the Facso replacement either.

 

[hnkstang50]

my motor uses the thin metal strips you bend over... one of the reasons i dont want to need to repalce the rear bearing often due to possibly breaking the 4 tabs eventualy.

does that mean this motor is a ao.. it does say AO on it right before the sealed ball bearing.

i woudl love to find that brechwell blower but cannot find any specs on it. i dont want to overload my contorl board if its more amperage/cfm.

 

[jtakeman]

my motor uses the thin metal strips you bend over... one of the reasons i dont want to need to repalce the rear bearing often due to possibly breaking the 4 tabs eventualy.

does that mean this motor is a ao.. it does say AO on it right before the sealed ball bearing.

i woudl love to find that brechwell blower but cannot find any specs on it. i dont want to overload my contorl board if its more amperage/cfm.

I have installed one. 3000 RPM and it draws .95 AMPs at full load. Same mount and rotation as your motor

 

[hnkstang50]

where did you get it from... or do you konw the part number to search... i went on breckwells site but you have to log in to view parts. also was it much longer. my steel fresh air pipe is only a inch or less away from the back of the blower housing right now... i have no problem modifying that pipe if need be. its only the air inlet.

 

[jtakeman]

The info came right off the motor tag. I installed a convection blower on a friends Sonora - (P23) Breckwell stove.

 

[hnkstang50]

i ment where did you get the motor from... i had a hard time finding that style blower that was for the room air. ill do some more searching now that i know the stove it went in.

great info thanks!

 

[littlesmokey]

Just being myself, why don't you upgrade the bearings? Then you won't have the issue of a non-standard motor. Bearings are a few bucks, well, under $10, and can be self-installed. If the motor works well, wouldn' this be a cheaper option???

Of course, I know little about motors in a technical way.

 

[hnkstang50]

Just being myself, why don't you upgrade the bearings? Then you won't have the issue of a non-standard motor. Bearings are a few bucks, well, under $10, and can be self-installed. If the motor works well, wouldn' this be a cheaper option???

Of course, I know little about motors in a technical way.

yea i have to look into what is a better bearing and that is an option for sure..... i just would rather not have the motor apart... would rather a put together from the factory motor if you know what i mean. also if it was a heat issue i would like to get a motor that runs cooler if that exists.

 

[jtakeman]

i ment where did you get the motor from... i had a hard time finding that style blower that was for the room air. ill do some more searching now that i know the stove it went in.

great info thanks!

Motor came straight from a breckwell dealer. I didn't buy it I just installed it as a favor. There not cheap by any means.

 

[jtakeman]

You may need to cantact them and ask the shaft diameter and approx length to see if it might work. You will be using the motor only if it does work. You can cut the shaft if its too long also.

(broken link removed to http://www.cshincorporated.com/product_info.php/products_id/3468)

 

[lmjr]

Just go ahead and get the PSC motor from Grainger...they work just fine on speed control.

I have done it...works great. I believe the manufacturers state that warning due to a stalling situation at very low voltages.

Pellet stoves lower voltages don't approach stalling...right around 75 volts is where the lowest speed runs at, as I recall.

You could check your lowest speed voltage and see if it's too low...bet it isn't.

 

[jtakeman]

smoke show,

What stove did you try it on? I did a breckwell only to find its controller would not vari the speed. Blower just ran as if it was on high speed even when controller was set on low speed. Another member TonyK also had the same issue.

 

[hnkstang50]

I never run my blower slower than 50 percent pretty much

 

[hnkstang50]

You may need to cantact them and ask the shaft diameter and approx length to see if it might work. You will be using the motor only if it does work. You can cut the shaft if its too long also.

(broken link removed to http://www.cshincorporated.com/product_info.php/products_id/3468)

in that link it says 1.60 amps. did you test your and the amperage was lower?

 

[jtakeman]

You may need to cantact them and ask the shaft diameter and approx length to see if it might work. You will be using the motor only if it does work. You can cut the shaft if its too long also.

(broken link removed to http://www.cshincorporated.com/product_info.php/products_id/3468)

in that link it says 1.60 amps. did you test your and the amperage was lower?

What is your stock blower amp draw on the tag? I only pointed this out to you. I never bought one. Priced fairly and if the shaft is the right length? Worth a shot. If your blower is around 1.2 I would say a slight increase is OK. But I would go crazy with say 2.4 amps. Try to stay close. Some of the amp draw also has to do with the impeller load and housing restrictions. This motor might? draw less amps with you stuff attached to it.

 

[hnkstang50]

I thought u said the one you installed was .95 amps. That's why I didn't know if the tag said that or you tested it because the one in the link said 1.6 amps. Yea I think different wheel can change the amperage from what I've read. My stock blower says 1.05 amps

 

[jtakeman]

The one I linked is not the one I installed. I installed a factory replacement from Breckwell. It doesn't look anything like this one This one is a Fasco OEM furnace blower that has the same motor and it would be all you could use from it. It might work? IDK, Just linked for you to check out. Don't buy it if you don't think so! Like I said above, AMP draw also has to do with the impeller load and the housing resistance. It may not draw that kind of AMPs with your impeller housing.

Was just trying to help was all! I'm done!

 

[hnkstang50]

Hey no need to be getting upset. Obviously I misunderstood you. You have been helpful and I'm just asking questions as I go. I thought that was the one you installed and thought it only really pulled .95 amps. You don't need to answer me or help if it gets you mad.

 

[jtakeman]

Not mad, Just don't like to spoon feed. Have you contacted Englander yet? Maybe they have what you need.

 

[hnkstang50]

Englander cannot do anything but sell me a new blower. They say I'm the only one so I keep urging people to call that have the same problem on this forum. The video of the nose I sent I was told sounds like the auger even to flight told them I fixed it by replacing the rear bearing.

Fasco said the same thing about no problems with te motor and said no other motors to replace it. They sent me a new motor since I'm out of warrenty with Englander. To my surprise the motor came yesterday and it looks to be updated with a different letter at the end of the Parr number. I'm going to update my other post later with pictures. Mainly the cooling fan has a sharper pitch to it to move more air