Bottom pin on stove door hinge creeping up

[PA. Woodsman]

I have noticed the pin that holds the bottom hinge on my door popping up over the years but ever since I put a new tight gasket on awhile ago it seems to be doing it more and at a faster rate. I have the door adjusted as loose as it can go, and I usually just turn a long nail upside down and tap it back down but it still wants to creep up and "seek it's level". I read about putting some graphite on it and did that but it is still doing it, is this something that I should just let happen and let it stop when it seeks it's level or is there a way to address this?

Thank you

 

[jetsam]

Sounds like maybe something isn't quite square and there's pressure on the pin.

I'd first do a dollar bill test on the door all the way around. If it passes that, problem is nothing to lose sleep over.

You could pull the pin and polish and lube it to try to make gravity your friend. The more material you take off the body of the pin the less likely it is to bind and work its way up- but the more wiggle and sag you get in the door.

You could put in a pin long enough to stick out the bottom, score it, and put a c-clip on it, or drill it and put a cotter pin in it.

You could even take the door off and carefully measure the stove opening and the door and hinge attachment points for trueness, though now you're looking at replacing the stove or the door when you find the problem.

My suggestion would be the c-clip one if it passes the dollar bill test, or the pull the door and find the problem if it doesn't. If your door or gasket knives are warping, you want to know about it.

 

[PA. Woodsman]

Sounds like maybe something isn't quite square and there's pressure on the pin.

I'd first do a dollar bill test on the door all the way around. If it passes that, problem is nothing to lose sleep over.

You could pull the pin and polish and lube it to try to make gravity your friend. The more material you take off the body of the pin the less likely it is to bind and work its way up- but the more wiggle and sag you get in the door.

You could put in a pin long enough to stick out the bottom, score it, and put a c-clip on it, or drill it and put a cotter pin in it.

You could even take the door off and carefully measure the stove opening and the door and hinge attachment points for trueness, though now you're looking at replacing the stove or the door when you find the problem.

My suggestion would be the c-clip one if it passes the dollar bill test, or the pull the door and find the problem if it doesn't. If your door or gasket knives are warping, you want to know about it.

I think you hit on it being the door, I don't think it ever was square from the factory back in 1993 because whenever I tried the dollar bill test the upper left corner wasn't tight, and no matter how I adjusted the hinge side which is adjustable I couldn't get it tighter; I just replaced the door gasket about a month or so ago and tried again to adjust it so it was tighter there but I can't, and if you stand above it and look down you can see the difference in the gasket, it is thinner to the right (hinge) side and thicker to the left (latch) side, so the door most likely never was square from all the way back to 1993. Like I said I remember tapping it back down over the years, and I guess since I replaced the gasket recently it really brought this problem to the light of day, for some reason even though I used the softest gasket I could find and the correct size and have the door and latch as loose as they can be it is still so very tight, it is getting better as the gasket is compressing but it is tighter than any other time that I replaced the gasket and I can't understand why? I found out thanks to guys on here that there are different densities of gasket material, tried one that the door didn't even close with, then tried a foot long section of medium gasket in the door hinge just to see if it would close better as that is the tightest spot, and while it was a bit better I opted for the soft as I was running out of choices, and I actually was pushing the left hinge side of the door in a bit when I would close the door to take stress off of the latch, but as it is flattening and compressing I am able to close it normally, it is still tight but is getting better and I can see that the round bushing is spinning somewhat when I close the door, and the bushing is not wearing anymore than before so I think it is on the right track, but the door being warped or not square is the issue. I think I'll just keep tapping it back down and after the burning season take a closer look at it and try some of your great suggestions, I figure it's been doing this now for so long without a major issue it should just be a minor nuisance thing. And Dovre went out of business years ago, they are part of Quadri fire so there is no help there. Just one of the "quirks" of this stove I guess, and when I was going through that issue with the gasket a local stove dealer told me that from what he remembers of this stove the doors were always a bit "wonky" but also said "they were great stoves though".

Thanks for the reply and the information, much appreciated!

 

[bigealta]

My Top Door pin climbs up in my Jotul f400. i just tap it back down with a log about once a month. Also the pin holding the door latch also works its way out. This pin it harder to tap back in but i can do it with a solid piece of wood. This starts moving back out pretty quickly. you can see it move past "flush" in about 2-3 weeks.
'

 

[bigealta]