BRASSFLAME KS805 how to remove metal baffle plates

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Riverjamie

Member
Aug 6, 2022
8
San Francisco
I just purchased a old cabin with a Brass Flame wood burning stove model KS805 serial H. I cleaned the chimney pipe but I can’t figure out how to remove the 2 METAL BAFFLE PLATES inside the fire box so I can get the debris on top of them out? Does some know how to remove them?

Last does anyone have a manual for this model?

Thx

[Hearth.com] BRASSFLAME KS805  how to remove metal baffle plates
 
Have you tried tapping them up with a rubber mallet? They may just be rusted in place.
 
They do move freely but just can’t figure how to slide them out. They have to slide to the front. Then I tried to drop them down but still won’t tilt enough for them to slide out???
Hopefully someone that’s removed them before will reply. Thx
 
I'm not familiar with this stove. Is the front secondary tube removable, or is it welded in?

If it's welded, then can the baffle panels be raised enough in the rear so that the front can slip under the secondary tube?
 
They look a little droopy in the middle there, they could have warped and stretched out just enough to not come out. Pretty common issue with stoves that have very tight clearances to remove baffles.

But also, there could be 100 other ways its attached in, the old bigger Morsos, had a set screw off to the side that had to come out to remove the baffles.
 
I made a drawing of the baffle plates. The one on the right overlaps the plate on the right by 2 inches. The front also has a inch lip at the front. It seems that the bar that supports the front is not removable.

Thank you all that have replied.

[Hearth.com] BRASSFLAME KS805  how to remove metal baffle plates
 
Take a rubber mallet and see if the rear of the upper (right?) baffle can be raised.
 
I made a drawing of the baffle plates. The one on the right overlaps the plate on the right by 2 inches. The front also has a inch lip at the front. It seems that the bar that supports the front is not removable.

Thank you all that have replied.

View attachment 297655
The way that looks, try to get one slid on top of the other, lift the front up and pull foward to the top-front of the stove, and see if the rear of the plates drop down in the back if the stove.
 
Both plates can move up an down and I can move them left an right. I thought I could tilt the back down after they came over the rear ledge that supports the rear of the plates. But the front of the plates won’t clear the front support bar. I’m going to try maybe pushing up on the rear of the plates an see if they can come out to the front? Maybe I need to remove the rear three fire blocks on the back wall that would give me an extra 1.25 inches.
 
Yes they do move up. And yes I’ve moved them to the front. They do drop down in the rear quite a bit almost to the bottom of the fire box floor. But not enough to get them pass the front support bar. I’m thing now trying to either try bring out the front or the removing the fire bricks on the rear wall which would provide an extra 1.25 inch clearance. Might just be enough. After I get them out. Going to have someone take a torch to the blowed one an flatten it out.

This design is not very good for the baffle removal.

I was hoping that someone out there might have had the same stove. And also wanted to remove them to clean the chimney pipe.

Or maybe someone might have the manual.

Thanks for replying
 
We’ll I finally got the baffle plates out. Had to remove the rear wall fire bricks. Also found a hole on the backside of the small chimney pipe adapter at the outlet from the stove.

Now just have to find out how to heat up the baffle plates to flatten the bowed one out.

Thx for all the feedback
 
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We’ll I finally got the baffle plates out. Had to remove the rear wall fire bricks. Also found a hole on the backside of the small chimney pipe adapter at the outlet from the stove.

Now just have to find out how to heat up the baffle plates to flatten the bowed one out.

Thx for all the feedback
Just go to a local metal shop and have new plates made. Even if you get them flat they will most likely just warp again. New ones from a welding shop are usually pretty cheap as well
 
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OKAY NOW THAT I FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET THE BAFFLE PLATES OUT. the next thing I did was to install new plates made out of some WOOL FIRE BOARD I FOUND ON LINE. It was easy to cut an install. BUT AFTER USING FOR A YEAR AND MOSTLY WITH DURAFLAME LOGS. I noticed the other day that the system was starting to back up some smoke into my little cabin. So I went on the roof and sure enough the spark arrester was 3/4 clogged. Cleaned the chimney cap/arrestor, flue (which was pretty clean just a little shoot on the walls, then removed baffles an shoot debris.

NOW FINALLY THE MAIN QUESTION. Do you think those baffles should be made out of steel and not the wool plates I made? Maybe the system needs more heat from the metal baffles to burn the shoot more efficiently???

I’m going to switch back to pressed wood logs. Maybe the Duraflame logs are producing some residue that causes the spark arrestor screen to clog? The screen is made of 1/4 inch squares.

Thanks for any feedback.
 
Duraflame logs are not meant to be used in a woodstove, ever. They are for open hearth fire in fireplaces only.

Duraflame firelogs are Underwriter Laboratories (UL) Classified for use in zero-clearance manufactured metal fireplaces and are suitable for use in all types of traditional open-hearth wood-burning fireplaces. Duraflame firelogs should not be burned in wood stoves or fireplace inserts that have doors that will affect airflow. Check for the UL-Classification mark on the package before buying.