breckwell feeder issues

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Oct 2, 2021
18
Pennsylvania
I have had a breckwell 2700 for four years now. Its been a beast. Neverna problem. I clear pipes once a month nd clean out burnpot and windows once a month. ...its been doing great. Until now. The trim does not seem to change speeds. After inital light up, looking good. All bright, seems like its up to heat... and something I think clicks.. and from here on out... the auger only turns once every ten seconds approx. If I change to level 1,2,3,4 or 5 .. its still that slow 10 second time till the auger engages. It starves the burn pot. Even if I adjust the damper to close to close... (Which isn't ever been normal that far shut) it barely will keep the flame goijg.. more or less just glowy coals.

I had an incident over the summer where my transformer outside my house blew my house fuses. It busted out some light bulbs out of their socket and killed a fan and two power surges strip protector were fried.
Anywho. im asking for help.
Does this curicut board look fried. I see a weird guy that looks not shiny. Upper left quadrant.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Ty

20211002_162843.jpg 20211002_162840.jpg 20211002_164821.jpg 20211002_164839.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: ARC
I have had a breckwell 2700 for four years now. Its been a beast. Neverna problem. I clear pipes once a month nd clean out burnpot and windows once a month. ...its been doing great. Until now. The trim does not seem to change speeds. After inital light up, looking good. All bright, seems like its up to heat... and something I think clicks.. and from here on out... the auger only turns once every ten seconds approx. If I change to level 1,2,3,4 or 5 .. its still that slow 10 second time till the auger engages. It starves the burn pot. Even if I adjust the damper to close to close... (Which isn't ever been normal that far shut) it barely will keep the flame goijg.. more or less just glowy coals.

I had an incident over the summer where my transformer outside my house blew my house fuses. It busted out some light bulbs out of their socket and killed a fan and two power surges strip protector were fried.
Anywho. im asking for help.
Does this curicut board look fried. I see a weird guy that looks not shiny. Upper left quadrant.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Ty

View attachment 282613 View attachment 282614 View attachment 282615 View attachment 282616
Before ya all get excited.. I clean burnpot every ^day.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ARC
i would say the dampness took out the board their is a lot of rust on that unit.. Hydro surge may have taken it the rest of the way out.. I have the same stove and they can take allot of punishment i had a faulty battery backup that was sending power surges through my stove for a year and its still working..
 
i think the time stays the same on the feed it just stays on longer... Have you changed pellets or emptied the unit and cleaned out the hopper to get rid of all the fine powder that builds up in the auger
 
After inital light up, looking good. All bright, seems like its up to heat... and something I think clicks.. and from here on out... the auger only turns once every ten seconds approx
Sounds like Proof of Fire switch or Vacuum Switch do you get any blinking lights on your control panel blinking 3 is Proof of Fire and Blinking 2 is Vacuum Switch. The click you hear is probably one or the other. Then the stove goes into shut down bumping pellets into burn pot every 10 seconds until it goes out. If you are getting blinking light then you can try to jump the corresponding switch. Unplug stove, unplug problem switch and connect the two wires with a jumper or paper clip, put tape on the wire connections to make sure they do not ground out on stove and try to start stove.

27001.jpg2700.jpg27002.jpgmale spaded jumper wire.jpg
 
Okay I'll check to see which number flashes. But off top of my head I dont think any number flashes. Yes it is damp down there at time during excessive rainfall in winter. Thatd be a bummer if board was shot. Any idea where tobget a new one thats not 300$,?
 
  • Like
Reactions: ARC
Any idea where tobget a new one thats not 300
Usually can get them repaired for around $175, but I would try jumping both those switches one at a time before spending the money even if no lights are blinking. Does it take less then 10 minutes for the click that is how long the stove looks for Proof of Fire before it goes into auto shutdown.
 
get a dehumidifier down their and run it when the stove is not in use... That dampness is going to kill everything in the stove over time and they do not cost much to run. I used to run one all winter when the gas furnace was my primary source of heat
 
. If I change to level 1,2,3,4 or 5 .. its still that slow 10 second time till the auger engages
Heat level can not be adjusted during stove start up, From operators manual:
The Heat Level Advance is inoperable during the ignition start period. When the green light
continuously stays on the Heat Level Advance can be adjusted to achieve the desired heat output
 
Okay. So as soon as I touched the POF Thermodisk the plastic ends that cover the metal connectors of the wires disintegrated . I wiggled them connector ends a little. Everything seems very rusty looking.

But after that jiggle or whatever. Thr heat level advanced is working now . The level five feeds like it should be.

I am ordering new wires and a new pof due to the rust. Thank you all. I truly appreciate thr suggestions and wish you all the very best. hopefully one more season outta this bad girl :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: clancey and ARC
Gotcha so that makes sense now why it never leaves the startup feed,pause cycle
Heat level can not be adjusted during stove start up, From operators manual:
The Heat Level Advance is inoperable during the ignition start period. When the green light
continuously stays on the Heat Level Advance can be adjusted to achieve the desired heat output
 
I think I saw #3 blinking.
Sounds like Proof of Fire switch or Vacuum Switch do you get any blinking lights on your control panel blinking 3 is Proof of Fire and Blinking 2 is Vacuum Switch. The click you hear is probably one or the other. Then the stove goes into shut down bumping pellets into burn pot every 10 seconds until it goes out. If you are getting blinking light then you can try to jump the corresponding switch. Unplug stove, unplug problem switch and connect the two wires with a jumper or paper clip, put tape on the wire connections to make sure they do not ground out on stove and try to start stove.

View attachment 282654View attachment 282655View attachment 282656View attachment 282657
 
  • Like
Reactions: ARC
I

I got one dehumidifier but im thinking I need a bigger one
When i got mine i purchased the biggest one i could find. Was over kill for my space but once it got the moisture level down it barley ran compared to my other one. They also generate a bit of heat so it used to offset the furnace a bit before i got the pellet stove. Have not ran the dehumidifier in the winter since i purchased the stove. Spend the money once buy a good/big one and it will be the last time you spend the money..
 
When i got mine i purchased the biggest one i could find. Was over kill for my space but once it got the moisture level down it barley ran compared to my other one. They also generate a bit of heat so it used to offset the furnace a bit before i got the pellet stove. Have not ran the dehumidifier in the winter since i purchased the stove. Spend the money once buy a good/big one and it will be the last time you spend the money..
This one is i think 250 sq ft. But its drafty down in basement from doors and the conduit from well comes through wall (old setup). if I was to go higher they aren't cheap!! I have a large large fan. That seems to get into the two corners good.
 
yes they are not cheap but watch for sales... They may be expensive but the damage being done is going to cost more in the end.. With that much dampness im betting wood structure is going to be effected over time, electrical , basically anything in your basement and the dampness will migrate into the upper levels... If you have to replace that main board in the pellet stove that's 1/2 the price of a bigger unit... Even grabbing a second unit would help they only take about 5-10 a month in hydro to operate especially when they get caught up...

Just some food for thought... I really could not afford the large one i got but it really was not a option of putting it off...

Look on your local buy and sell boards. In my area i see them quite often used for cheap
 
Shucks. Im back. I need more ideas. More advice.
Unit was running fine. I never switched out that pof or wires because it ran so well. But oddly one day. As I was loading pellets in the hopper. I bumped the unit. And it started acting up again. By only running in 10 off 3 on mode.

So I've hot wired with a paperclip 📎 every sensor. The pof. High disc. Even the air one. Hot wiring none of the. Actually fixed the isse......(. I even blew it in very genty and sucked very gently and the clicks are indeed occurring. ))

So I replaced the pof anyways. Nothing changed.

I'm. Hell bent trying to figure this out.. im outta ideas.
I have two tons pellets sitting in my basement.
Which I now have two dehumidifiers going.

And I hope i didnt waste my money.
Uhg.
 
if your good with a multi meter start testing your wires for a break in the wire. Along with the above suggestion it sounds as you have a bad wire or poor connection since it started after bumping the unit...
 
Okay so new symptom. When I turn stove on. Cold start. After ~thirty seconds the on--off button blinks and I have access to change the speed. But changing the speed does nothing.
The stove continues to start up and feed in default mode.