Breckwell P2000fs

[tpmcx]

We have Breckwell p2000fs that we purchased oct 18 of 2018
All and all the stove hasn't been to bad,I keep it clean but this year it has been acting up
The stove has been shutting down with the level 3 light flashing
I called a Breckwell tech and he thought the same think I had came up with
That the high limit switch was tripping
He had me jump it out to test it and the stove ran fine all day
I bought a new high limit switch and replaced it
It ran until about 1 am that morning and shut down again
I jumped out the switch again and the stove seems to run fine with this jumped out
I guess its possible I got a bad switch but not sure
Is there anything that would trip this switch besides the stove heat?
I just wonder if the auger motor was going bad or auger shaft hard to rotate would the high current draw in some way be able to trip
this or can something else be going on?
I lost as of now so appreciate some input
Thanks in advance

 

[Ssyko]

the switch you replaced, did it have a button in the center of the contacts? if it does not it should reset when the stove cools down. now if that is the case you have an overheat issue causing the switch to trip. or you may have gotten a brand new bad switch(unlikely but possible)

 

[tpmcx]

the switch you replaced, did it have a button in the center of the contacts? if it does not it should reset when the stove cools down. now if that is the case you have an overheat issue causing the switch to trip. or you may have gotten a brand new bad switch(unlikely but possible)

No it doesn't have a reset button, it does reset itself but sometime during the burn it trips out for some reason
the stove isn't overheating so something is going on with it
Or something else that Im not understanding is going on
the only issue I really have had with it is this spring birds wanted to build their nest in the chimney and would trip the low pressure switch
ended up putting mesh around the cap to keep them out

 

[Ssyko]

can you get a close-up pic of the switch and numbers on it?

 

[tpmcx]

can you get a close-up pic of the switch and numbers on it?

it is the oem replacement
ill get a pic though

 

[zrock]

Make sure you have the right switch. Someone on my stove had replaced the low limit with a high limit... funny enough the stove ran for 2 years before i found it..

 

[tpmcx]

Make sure you have the right switch. Someone on my stove had replaced the low limit with a high limit... funny enough the stove ran for 2 years before i found it..

good idea,I will check what switch they gave me but the low limit switch wouldnt kick out at all would it?

 

[zrock]

They are 2 different sizes the smaller goes on the exhaust side. Who ever did mine just drilled another hole to make it fit..lol

 

[tpmcx]

They are 2 different sizes the smaller goes on the exhaust side. Who ever did mine just drilled another hole to make it fit..lol

Isnt the one on the exhaust side N.O.?
It would close on heat and allow the stove to run but never kick out because its working the way its intended
Not sure if the circuit board needs to see the high limit closed to even allow the 10-15 min start up cycle to begin
If it does the stove wont start with the N.O switch
just thinking out loud
I appreciate the help

 

[Ssyko]

Isnt the one on the exhaust side N.O.?
It would close on heat and allow the stove to run but never kick out because its working the way its intended
Not sure if the circuit board needs to see the high limit closed to even allow the 10-15 min start up cycle to begin
If it does the stove wont start with the N.O switch
just thinking out loud
I appreciate the help

Yes you are correct tpmcx.
I was curious about the replacement switch as to it's temperature setting to shut down. but it is redundant if it either does't reset itself or is failing/bad. with it in its normal state its acting just like a jumper till 300 then opens and never works again. is very odd

 

[tpmcx]

Yes you are correct tpmcx.
I was curious about the replacement switch as to it's temperature setting to shut down. but it is redundant if it either does't reset itself or is failing/bad. with it in its normal state its acting just like a jumper till 300 then opens and never works again. is very odd

I checked the new switch and its identical as the old switch and opens at 300 deg
I bought an inferrred thermometer and the area the switch mounts against is about 122 deg
I think maybe I was jumping the gun thinking the high limit was tripping maybe
possibly it was shutting down for another reason maybe the auger was packed or something and it would of restarted anyways
whether I bypassed the high limit or not
I let it run out of pellets tonight and cleaned the fines out of the auger and cleaned the pot and restarted it with the high limit hooked back
up and Ill see what happens
maybe I had the damper open to far or who knows what
Ill let it run all night and see what happens by morning
I did notice while cleaning the auger that I could slide it up about a 1/4 inch or more and let it drop back down toward the auger motor
Not sure how the auger is made to know if this should be possible or not
Thanks again for all the input
See what tomorrow brings

 

[tpmcx]

Stove still running fine this morning
Im going to pull the auger motor and auger out this weekend and clean them and the whole stove goodI want to find out why the auger can move up and back down so far if its pinned to the auger motor shaftSeems it must be moving the armature also

 

[zrock]

thats normal for the auger to move like that. Nothing is bolted in its just held in my the bushings and the motor hangs off that... Once it gets loaded up with pellets it holds its position and does not move up and down...

 

[zrock]

Isnt the one on the exhaust side N.O.?
It would close on heat and allow the stove to run but never kick out because its working the way its intended
Not sure if the circuit board needs to see the high limit closed to even allow the 10-15 min start up cycle to begin
If it does the stove wont start with the N.O switch
just thinking out loud
I appreciate the help

thats what you would figure cant explane why it worked for the last few years

 

[tpmcx]

This is just the way everything seems to go for me
Nothing ever normal when it breaks

 

[tpmcx]

Stove still giving me issues but may run days with no issues but yesterday it shut down 3 times
Finally it shut down while I was home
As soon as I realized it wasnt feeding pellets I checked things out
The feed light wasnt coming on,it wouldnt come on or feed pellets when pressed
The pof switch was closed
The high limit was closed
The vacuum switch was closed put the control would not feed pellets
The only thing I did notice was one of the fans wasnt running a constant feed before that or even after I restarted the stove
I did notice this morning the fan was running a steady rpm
Is it possible that voltage fluctuations in the 110v supply could be tripping the board out?
I had just cleaned the entire chimney and stove last weekend
My only other thought is a bad triac on the control board
I restarted the stove after it went out and it ran all night and is still running
Any ideas?

 

[tpmcx]

Stove still giving me issues but may run days with no issues but yesterday it shut down 3 times
Finally it shut down while I was home
As soon as I realized it wasnt feeding pellets I checked things out
The feed light wasnt coming on,it wouldnt come on or feed pellets when pressed
The pof switch was closed
The high limit was closed
The vacuum switch was closed put the control would not feed pellets
The only thing I did notice was one of the fans wasnt running a constant feed before that or even after I restarted the stove
I did notice this morning the fan was running a steady rpm
Is it possible that voltage fluctuations in the 110v supply could be tripping the board out?
I had just cleaned the entire chimney and stove last weekend
My only other thought is a bad triac on the control board
I restarted the stove after it went out and it ran all night and is still running
Any ideas?

do the blowers have overloads built into themselves?

 

[zrock]

Have you tried a different brand of pellets? This year our local suppler changed pellets and i had nothing but issues for weeks with the stove would stop feeding and go into shut down mode, would fail to light 1 out of 2 times.. when i finally had issues with the auger jambing up i realized that the pellet size was so inconsistent and dirty that the auger was getting plugged with long pellets and fines and blocking the feed until it broke loose... I switched and tried 3 different brands that were all consistent and clean and have had 0 issues since and stove is running much hotter and cleaner. One pellet i found way to small and used about 2x the amount i normally would.

 

[tpmcx]

Im using Poor Boy pellets now which I ve had good luck with before
The thing I cant figure out is the auger does stop feeding pellets because of power instead of being plugged
i just cant figure out why it quits running plus the feed light goes off altogether and wont come on when i press the feed buttonThe auger just stops for some reason

 

[Ssyko]

When was the last time you cleaned the vent pipe? Does the damper have any affect on the burn?
Maybe the triac on the board is overheating and is going out of its normal stat.

 

[tpmcx]

When was the last time you cleaned the vent pipe? Does the damper have any affect on the burn?
Maybe the triac on the board is overheating and is going out of its normal stat.

Last Saturday I cleaned the entire chimney from the stove all the way up
Cleaned the stove good including the inner chamber
Pulled both blowers and cleaned the fans and blew them off till they were clean
I keep the stove clean as possible inside and out
I did call US Stoves today and got a guy that was great helping me thru what's going on
He believes the circuit is the issue and is sending me out a new board under warranty
Im hoping this solves this once and for all
Ill keep this post updated as to maybe be of help to someone else some time
Thanks for all the help on here, its great to be able to get out. to others that have been through this also
Does anyone know which triac is for the auger on my board and also a part number for them?
I have no problems removing and soldering in a new triac if I know which one needs replaced

 

[Ssyko]

i will hook one up to the test bench and find out which one.. i usually change the 4 of them..

oh and they are called Triac's (treeax)
2ea BTB08-600BW (stand up)
2ea T835-600G (lay down)

 

[tpmcx]

i will hook one up to the test bench and find out which one.. i usually change the 4 of them..

oh and they are called Triac's (treeax)
2ea BTB08-600BW (stand up)
2ea T835-600G (lay down)

Thank you,I will replace all 4 while Im doing it
I typed Triac and computers spell checker changed it to Trial
I thought I changed it

 

[Ssyko]

ok the 2 that are mounted vertical you can use a standard solder iron. the 2 that are mounted horizontal will need a hot air tool(it is soldered under the entire black body and the legs) and you need to use some type of heatsink putty around it so the board and other components are not damaged

 

[tpmcx]

ok thank you
The 2 horizontal ones will be out of my ability Im afraid
Idont have the hot air tool and not really comfortable with those two
May think about it some