Breckwell P2000i won't start after cleaning

[SmokeyTheBear]

OK, the leaf blower trick isn't going to happen right now (long story). I did take the exhaust pipe/combustion blower off and cleaned it up real good with a brush, vacuum and ended up using the leaf blower to BLOW from the bottom of the chimney piping upwards. A little ash got in the house but mostly it seemed to clear out the exhaust vent very well. At this point I find it hard to believe that it's so plugged that it's tripping the air switch, but it's STILL shutting down with a #2 error. If it is the exhaust that's causing the error, I'm thinking it's somehow blocked at the cap. This doesn't make sense to me since the install was so recent.

I don't see any option at this point except to call the installer and pay to have him go on my roof and check the exhaust (again). This sucks.

You still have the area from the combustion blower cavity all the way to the firebox, this path would end at the areas above and below the heat exchanger tubes on both the right and left side of the firebox.

 

[mikkeeh]

Im kinda new to this...and I understand about keeping a stove clean..........But why would the stove fire up and run fine with the vacuum switch bypassed.......... then stop running again. Wouldnt an intermittant control board issue be more probable?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Im kinda new to this...and I understand about keeping a stove clean..........But why would the stove fire up and run fine with the vacuum switch bypassed.......... then stop running again. Wouldnt an intermittant control board issue be more probable?

The only reason the stove ran was because the #1 safety in the stove was removed from the loop.

It is not a control board issue, it was and is a combustion airflow issue.

 

[mikkeeh]

Thx for the explanation.

 

[djs_net]

We're not saying that it absolutely IS the exhaust pipe. We're saying that it could be anywhere in the stove, from the air inlet all the way to the cap, and anywhere in between.

When I asked about whether or not the stove was disassembled after you got it, just blowing air through parts of the stove with a leaf blower isn't going to cut it, in most cases. A LOT of the flyash gets caked inside the traps, and has to be scraped away. Many people use a small hammer and physically bang on the back steel walls of the firebox to dislodge the ash (unless the back wall is cast iron, then do NOT do this!)

You needed to physically remove all blowers, the auger and motor, any ash trap covers, burn pot, any plates or other covers around the heat exchangers, etc, etc, etc, and then use stiff brushes, vacuum, scrapers, etc, etc.

From what the veteran members here have seen MANY times in the past, is the reason a used stove became "used" in the first place.....the original owner didn't maintain it correctly and got rid of it because the "stove is no da** good!".

Now, I'm not saying that this is absolutely 100% the problem, but if you get the stove squeaky clean, then that eliminates a LOT of questions.

I'm certainly no expert (yet), but I have had the stove apart several times and cleaned every chamber and area shown in the manual. I've seen very little ash buildup that would require any scraping, mostly a fine powder that easily gets sucked up by a vac or blown away by the blower. As others have stated many times in the threads, keeping these stoves clean isn't rocket science. I might be missing something but unless there is a hidden compartment that I can't access, the issue is not inside the stove itself.

*Note: I have NOT done anything with the auger or auger motor. It doesn't make sense to me that this could be the problem and there's no mention of it in the troubleshooting section of the manual.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

We're not saying that it absolutely IS the exhaust pipe. We're saying that it could be anywhere in the stove, from the air inlet all the way to the cap, and anywhere in between.

When I asked about whether or not the stove was disassembled after you got it, just blowing air through parts of the stove with a leaf blower isn't going to cut it, in most cases. A LOT of the flyash gets caked inside the traps, and has to be scraped away. Many people use a small hammer and physically bang on the back steel walls of the firebox to dislodge the ash (unless the back wall is cast iron, then do NOT do this!)

You needed to physically remove all blowers, the auger and motor, any ash trap covers, burn pot, any plates or other covers around the heat exchangers, etc, etc, etc, and then use stiff brushes, vacuum, scrapers, etc, etc.

From what the veteran members here have seen MANY times in the past, is the reason a used stove became "used" in the first place.....the original owner didn't maintain it correctly and got rid of it because the "stove is no da** good!".

Now, I'm not saying that this is absolutely 100% the problem, but if you get the stove squeaky clean, then that eliminates a LOT of questions.

I'm certainly no expert (yet), but I have had the stove apart several times and cleaned every chamber and area shown in the manual. I've seen very little ash buildup that would require any scraping, mostly a fine powder that easily gets sucked up by a vac or blown away by the blower. As others have stated many times in the threads, keeping these stoves clean isn't rocket science. I might be missing something but unless there is a hidden compartment that I can't access, the issue is not inside the stove itself.

*Note: I have NOT done anything with the auger or auger motor. It doesn't make sense to me that this could be the problem and there's no mention of it in the troubleshooting section of the manual.

Pete was just telling you the general procedure to follow when getting a used stove home.

We have seen the thrash you are going through repeated here several times each year.

Many folks on here have gotten used stoves and gone through the dirty stove blues.

It is also possible that if that vacuum switch has two ports on it that you hooked the hose to the wrong port after cleaning. As the manual states it is very rare for a pressure differential switch to be bad. Not impossible but as you have already found out not likely.

 

[djs_net]

You still have the area from the combustion blower cavity all the way to the firebox, this path would end at the areas above and below the heat exchanger tubes on both the right and left side of the firebox.

I'm not sure what area you're talking about here. I cleaned inside the combustion blower cavity... and I believe in my stove, that this cavity is connected to the firebox through the 3 ash doors.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

You still have the area from the combustion blower cavity all the way to the firebox, this path would end at the areas above and below the heat exchanger tubes on both the right and left side of the firebox.

I'm not sure what area you're talking about here. I cleaned inside the combustion blower cavity... and I believe in my stove, that this cavity is connected to the firebox through the 3 ash doors.

No it is not, you need to trace the air path from the intake through the burn pot, up and through the heat exchanger and back down behind the side and back walls of the fire box, and out to the combustion blower cavity and then on to the venting.