breckwell p23I 2 piece burn pot - cant seem to get large piece out - need help

[timalabim]

Is there a trick to this? Dealer says both pieces should come right out. Large piece seems in there pretty solid.

Don't want to break it

Also noticed that the 2 leg? holes in the bottom front are not plugged with carriage bolt as indicated in the manual. Dealer also
says that this if fine. Is it?

Manual also says that there should be an insulation blanket around the exhaust pipe up to the damper. Dealer says it isn't necessary.

 

[kinsmanstoves]

Is there a trick to this? Dealer says both pieces should come right out. Large piece seems in there pretty solid.

Don't want to break it

Also noticed that the 2 leg? holes in the bottom front are not plugged with carriage bolt as indicated in the manual. Dealer also
says that this if fine. Is it?

Manual also says that there should be an insulation blanket around the exhaust pipe up to the damper. Dealer says it isn't necessary.

As for the burn put is this what you mean. It just pulls out.

Yes you should have the carraige bolts in place that are in the burn pot. As for the insulation it does come with the unit and we use it on the top of the hopper to keep condensation down.

Eric

 

[cms0553]

Eric,
Should my P-22 have the same carrage bolts, if so can you post a picture showwing were they go?
My burn pot just hangs on the fresh air intake, hasn't seemed to be a problem so far. I just slide it towards the front when I remove it to clean.
Thanks,

 

[timalabim]

Eric,

thanks for the pics. sure makes it clear. mine seems very solidly jammed in. I'll give it a try next week's cleaning. I gave up today and just left it in. Didn't seem to be a big
hinderance for the cleaning.

Chuck,

Hard to take a pic of the holes but they are on the bottom piece of the firebox about 1 inch in from side and 1 inch from the front. You have to kind of stick your head in and look down. I noticed mine because my installer had a piece of sheet metal shimming up the right front side a bit and when I pulled the unit out to connect my thermostat I knocked it out of place. When I looking under as I was pushing it back in I noticed I could see a small dot of light reflecting off the hearth underneath. I realized it was the glow of the fire

 

[kinsmanstoves]

"Yes you should have the carraige bolts in place that are in the burn pot."

Sorry I was not very clear in that statement. I should have said Fire Box not burn pot. The carraige bolts are used to level the stove in an uneven fireplace. Sometimes rocks or uneven bricks are used and can make the unit tetter. The carraige bolts correct that such as the carraige bolts on a leg kit.

You should be able to use a small prybar or flat bar to removed the burn pot. You have to get inside that large black burn pot to get the ash out or it will cause a bad burn due to the restricted air flow.

Eric

 

[timalabim]

Eric,

Thanks for the update.

Since I had the stove off yesterday due to the unseasonable outside warmth, I did as you suggested and pried the box loose.

There were some good size metal burrs around the edges of the large pipe/hole which I filed down, but the issue appears to have been that the leveling screw under that box was out so far that the box would jam up against the inlet pipe and the ignitor tube before it could get all the way in. It was definitely not all the way in before as now I have much better flame control. I actually had to push the damper in a bit to get back to good flame.

I'll be putting in the carriage bolts this weekend during cleaning as there is obviously air flow coming up though them. There is a little volcano shaped pile of ash around each hole where the air flow prevents the ash from landing.

Do you know the hole size off-hand? Looks like about 1/4 inch but I didn't measure like I should have when I had the chance.

As I get more into the maintenance, I am losing faith in my dealer as I would have thought that these items should have been taken care of, especially the fact that they told me I didn't need the carriage bolts. Also when I opened the door last night the bolt and washer on the handle fell right off. A little sloppy on the assembly/inspection if you ask me.

Tim

 

[kinsmanstoves]

Without having to hunt around the store looking for old bolts I will agree on the 1/4" holes. Pick up a couple washers also, just in case.

When adjusting the handle do not pull out the 1/2" drive ratchet. The bolt that makes up the handle is notched and will break or you can strip the fine threads.


Eric

 

[timalabim]

Without having to hunt around the store looking for old bolts I will agree on the 1/4" holes. Pick up a couple washers also, just in case.

When adjusting the handle do not pull out the 1/2" drive ratchet. The bolt that makes up the handle is notched and will break or you can strip the fine threads.


Eric

Yep, I saw the notched bolt, so just gave the nut a bit of a gentle twist with the adj. wrench.

 

[timalabim]

Just a quick update.

Did my cleaning over the weekend and put a couple of carriage bolts in the holes. 5/16" did the job. Might have been able to get 3/8 through, but 1/4 was a bit on the small side. Anyway I ended up actually using pan head machine screws with the screw head inside with a jam nut inside and a lock nut under the stove. That way I could turn the screw head and adjust to get the stove leveled properly. The screw head and nut on the underside was just a bit too high to do it that way. Either way, its much better and easier to adjust than the sheet metal shims the installer had jammed under there.

I'll just have to remember to back off the screws when I pull the stove out so as to not scratch the tile.

I also made up an adapter to 1/2" hose to my shop vac to clean out behind the access panels in the fire box. I had about 1/2" of ash on the sides and nothing to speak of in the back after 2 solid weeks of burning, so I didn't think that was too bad. I'll most likely continue to do the full clean every 2 weeks and just the inside of the firebox clean each week. Not that it was a big deal to pull off the panels and snake the hose around in there.

Anyway I'm loving the P23I. It is keeping the downstairs very toasty and upstairs just a few degrees cooler. The only time the furnace kicks in for the main zone is when the cycle kicks in in the morning to bring the temp back up to 70 from the 62 overnight setting. I give the stove about 15min head start on the programmable thermostat then the Furnace will kick in for a little while till it gets up to 68 then the stove brings it up to 70 where it is able to maintain no problem so far, even with the last couple of very cold days.