BreckWell P2700 Blower Motor Whine / Squeal

[EasternShoreVa]

I bought my pellet stove two years ago and have replaced the blower motor twice due to a loud whining / squealing noise that comes from the unit after a few months use. I never run the stove higher than 3. I am now on my third blower motor. Just like the others after two months of use, it is starting to make the same noise. I believe that the noise is being caused by the blower motor getting too hot and then damaging the bearings to a point where the continuously whine. I took the back panel cover off today while it was running and grabbed the motor and it was very hot. When I replaced the second motor the Breckwell tech had me take the whole stove apart and check to see all seams where sealed and to replace the insulation. I did find a couple places that needed caulk. But, nothing that should cause the motor to get too hot. I just think the motor is too close to the firewall and there’s not enough air circulation.

I would like to know if anyone else is having blower motor squeal/whine noises from there Breckwell stoves. I asked Breckwell and they said they have not had any complaints from any other owners. I will be calling them again but not sure what to do. I really don’t want to replace the motor yet again. It is very irritating because the stove is in our living room and I cannot hear the TV even when the stove is on lvl 2. I THINK IM GONNA THROW IT IN THE CREEK!!

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Sagesmom]

Hmm... I had that problem last year and replaced the motor with an aftermarket one. Haven't had the problem since. I don't remember the name of the new motor, but if I turn the stove off tomorrow I can check. My old motor started to squeal really badly and then quit working. Good luck.

 

[hearthtools]

I bought my pellet stove two years ago and have replaced the blower motor twice due to a loud whining / squealing noise that comes from the unit after a few months use. I never run the stove higher than 3. I am now on my third blower motor. Just like the others after two months of use, it is starting to make the same noise. I believe that the noise is being caused by the blower motor getting too hot and then damaging the bearings to a point where the continuously whine. I took the back panel cover off today while it was running and grabbed the motor and it was very hot. When I replaced the second motor the Breckwell tech had me take the whole stove apart and check to see all seams where sealed and to replace the insulation. I did find a couple places that needed caulk. But, nothing that should cause the motor to get too hot. I just think the motor is too close to the firewall and there’s not enough air circulation.

I would like to know if anyone else is having blower motor squeal/whine noises from there Breckwell stoves. I asked Breckwell and they said they have not had any complaints from any other owners. I will be calling them again but not sure what to do. I really don’t want to replace the motor yet again. It is very irritating because the stove is in our living room and I cannot hear the TV even when the stove is on lvl 2. I THINK IM GONNA THROW IT IN THE CREEK!!

Any help would be appreciated!

Was this the room air blower or the Combustion blower?

Breckwell has Changed their Replacement room air blower in the last month.
I noticed this when they blowers they sent me had a different part #
when I called about it they said it was an upgraded blower.

 

[EasternShoreVa]

It is indeed the Blower motor. Part# A-E-033. This is my third one and they were all identical. Could you tell me the new part number? Was there any noticeable difference from the original? I would also be very interested in the part number for the aftermarket one as well. Thanks for all the help.

 

[hearthtools]

It is indeed the Blower motor. Part# A-E-033. This is my third one and they were all identical. Could you tell me the new part number? Was there any noticeable difference from the original? I would also be very interested in the part number for the aftermarket one as well. Thanks for all the help.

Im not at the shop right now but when I order the 033 they are sending us the new ones and we are selling them the 033
I did not take the time (Cant even take a Potty break when Im at the shop)
to open up the boxes and look at the motor

 

[hearthtools]

The # on the box they are sending us is
C-E-029
I dont have a old blower to compare to.

 

[hearthtools]

Data on new blower
Looking at it i think they have a smaller Blower wheel that the old
the blower wheel is 3.5" accross x 1.75 wide
the motor is 3000 RPM Fasco motor part # 70211215

I dont see why they have to have so much RPM this make noise

Travis uses a Larger blower wheel with a 1500 RPM motor. Half the speed but twice the size of blower wheel.

Travis also has 3 dependent Rubber bushing in the motor mount to the Blower housing to keep vibration down.

 

[eernest4]

dear easternshore-va,

I have several thoughts about your blower motor. You can choose which ones seem best or ignore them all.

1. buy a aftermarket lower rpm room air blower motor. Try to keep a similar cubic ft of air flow/min rating, but this is not vastly important, if you end up with a lower air flow,it will just take a little longer to circulate the hot air.

You may be phically restricted by not enough room inside machinery compartment of stove to go with a aftermarket 1500 rpm, half the rpm with twice the size fan, to make up for the lower rpm.

For ease of install,you will probably want to go with the new improved motor of the mfg.

2. Keeping your old room air motor going. You might not want 2 spend $200 to $350 for a replacement blower motor. This are 2 DIY fixes if you are handy.

a. buy a pin point plastic squeeze oiler that has the long tube that pulls out of the bottle. I see them at major appliance repair parts stores. they could also be able to order you a after market motor from there ,too. Oil burner parts stores also have that oiler.

I oil all my pellet stove motors, even if I can only manage to drip oil on the motor shaft, without taking anything apart except for removing the acess panel, at least once a year & hopefully, twice a year.

These motors are equiped with "oiless" bronze bushings and I'm not sure, but I think they call the bearings oiless because no one ever remembers to oil them.

And of couse, if you dont oil them, you can guarantee premature failure.

Not all, but only, the better "oiless" bronze bushings have felt washers, in front and behind them , which are saturated with oil, and so provide a couple of months worth of lubrication.

After that, the oil dries up & evaporates & is in need of the oil can for a refresh sateration.

The end bells of some of these motors can be taken off. 4 long thin bolts hold the motor end bells together.

You mark the end bell and motor case with a nail or metal scribe ,to make exact reallignment marks for back the same way reassembly.

After removing the front and rear end bells, you can inspect the bronze bushings and the motor shaft for wear in the area that the bearings ride the shaft so that you can determine if only a good oiling is needed, or the bronze bushings need to be drien out and new bushings pressed in or the motor rotor shaft is also worn so that you really need another motor.

Once the motor shaft wears, new bronze bushings wont help, you need a new motor.

You can do this yourself, it wont pay to have someone do it for you in this day & age, just a bunch of part changers & part sellers, now.

I am old school, we used to replace the bearings in the motors & reinstall them.

Especially if you still have the old blower motor to learn/ practice on.

My last thought is you could buy a small fan or get one from a ruined or obsolete computer,
computer case cooling fan, even order it on the internet for $12.95 + ship & if you have room inside the stove machinery compartment, aim it to blow on the room fan circulator motor
to keep it running cool.

Many ways to skin a cat, some better than others. your choice.
pick an option.

 

[webbie]

Without stating the obvious, if this is a design flaw (and it does sound like one), the Breckwell should send you the new motor and pay to have it installed as well.

As it is, they put you though a bunch of chit having to deal with it. Although fudging it may be possible, that is only a good solution after a maker has gone out of business or if you stole the stove. If you paid for it, then they should fix it.

 

[cakewalk]

you never did say what model this is.

The p24 stoves are ugly but kind of bullit prof

Could it be your stove is getting to hot?
Did you call your dealer to check it out.
or is this one of the Famous Internet sales that you cant get help on because the dealer is 2000 miles away from you?

 

[EasternShoreVa]

dear easternshore-va,

I have several thoughts about your blower motor. You can choose which ones seem best or ignore them all.

1. buy a aftermarket lower rpm room air blower motor. Try to keep a similar cubic ft of air flow/min rating, but this is not vastly important, if you end up with a lower air flow,it will just take a little longer to circulate the hot air.

You may be phically restricted by not enough room inside machinery compartment of stove to go with a aftermarket 1500 rpm, half the rpm with twice the size fan, to make up for the lower rpm.

For ease of install,you will probably want to go with the new improved motor of the mfg.

2. Keeping your old room air motor going. You might not want 2 spend $200 to $350 for a replacement blower motor. This are 2 DIY fixes if you are handy.

a. buy a pin point plastic squeeze oiler that has the long tube that pulls out of the bottle. I see them at major appliance repair parts stores. they could also be able to order you a after market motor from there ,too. Oil burner parts stores also have that oiler.

I oil all my pellet stove motors, even if I can only manage to drip oil on the motor shaft, without taking anything apart except for removing the acess panel, at least once a year & hopefully, twice a year.

These motors are equiped with "oiless" bronze bushings and I'm not sure, but I think they call the bearings oiless because no one ever remembers to oil them.

And of couse, if you dont oil them, you can guarantee premature failure.

Not all, but only, the better "oiless" bronze bushings have felt washers, in front and behind them , which are saturated with oil, and so provide a couple of months worth of lubrication.

After that, the oil dries up & evaporates & is in need of the oil can for a refresh sateration.

The end bells of some of these motors can be taken off. 4 long thin bolts hold the motor end bells together.

You mark the end bell and motor case with a nail or metal scribe ,to make exact reallignment marks for back the same way reassembly.

After removing the front and rear end bells, you can inspect the bronze bushings and the motor shaft for wear in the area that the bearings ride the shaft so that you can determine if only a good oiling is needed, or the bronze bushings need to be drien out and new bushings pressed in or the motor rotor shaft is also worn so that you really need another motor.

Once the motor shaft wears, new bronze bushings wont help, you need a new motor.

You can do this yourself, it wont pay to have someone do it for you in this day & age, just a bunch of part changers & part sellers, now.

I am old school, we used to replace the bearings in the motors & reinstall them.

Especially if you still have the old blower motor to learn/ practice on.

My last thought is you could buy a small fan or get one from a ruined or obsolete computer,
computer case cooling fan, even order it on the internet for $12.95 + ship & if you have room inside the stove machinery compartment, aim it to blow on the room fan circulatory motor
to keep it running cool.

Many ways to skin a cat, some better than others. your choice.
pick an option.

Its really hard to get to the blower motor to oil it. They have it situated in a way that it has to remove the blower unit out.Which wouldn't be a problem if it wasn't so hard to get to the bolts on the inside. You need hands the size of a baby. And they also have a shroud that blocks the back of the motor. I believe the shroud is Breckwells solution to try to keep the motor cool. The shroud directs some of the blowers airflow to the rear of the motor.
I did take the second motor apart after it started to make its ear bleeding noise. I took the rear bearing out and opened the bearing seal up. The grease that was inside was a crusty tar like consistency. I did repack the bearing with some high temp bearing grease, but, i believe the damage was already done to the bearing. Ironically, I did what you suggested with the computer fan before I read your post. However, even with the fan, the motor made the noise. I would love to go with a lower RPM motor but, theres just not much room inside for anything much bigger. Breckwell always takes the old motor back or they will charge for the new one. Could you suggest a type/brand of oil to use? I will give that a shot. Thanks for all your suggestions they are much appreciated.

 

[EasternShoreVa]

you never did say what model this is.

The p24 stoves are ugly but kind of bullit prof

Could it be your stove is getting to hot?
Did you call your dealer to check it out.
or is this one of the Famous Internet sales that you cant get help on because the dealer is 2000 miles away from you?

I have the P2700 deluxe. Its a beautiful stove and the quality overall is pretty good. The biggest selling point for me was the huge ash pan and hopper, burn times, and good looks. No, the stove is not getting too hot. I have only had it up to level 3 so far this year. I gonna stick a temperature sensor where the motor is and measure how hot it is in there. The only thing is, we are in a heat wave right now and it will have to wait a few days. I did buy it from one of the big online dealers. We only have one dealer on the shore and the brands/models that they sold at that time did not fit my needs. My parents have a pellet stove from the local dealer and have had some problems with it. Its like pulling teeth during the winter season to get them to come out because we are an hour away and they are extremely busy. So either way, Buy online = no service ever / Buy local = no service until after season.

 

[EasternShoreVa]

Data on new blower
Looking at it i think they have a smaller Blower wheel that the old
the blower wheel is 3.5" accross x 1.75 wide
the motor is 3000 RPM Fasco motor part # 70211215

I dont see why they have to have so much RPM this make noise

Travis uses a Larger blower wheel with a 1500 RPM motor. Half the speed but twice the size of blower wheel.

Travis also has 3 dependent Rubber bushing in the motor mount to the Blower housing to keep vibration down.

Information on my Motor.

Fasco motor # 7021-8711 Type U21b 3000RPM
Customer part# C-E-033
Wheel size: 3.75 accross X 1.75 wide.

So, it looks like they may have changed motors at least. I did a cross reference on the FASCO site on part # 7021-8711 and it comes up with motor D208 and Blower Housing B24220. It did not come up with any cross reference for 7021-1215 - probably because its new. I Googled C-E-029 and Blackwell's SP 6000 stove comes up it is in this manual as a replacement. The manual is dated 7/07. They are probably switching over all stoves to this part to keep things consistent. Thanks for your help its very much appreciated.

 

[davearre]

I bought my pellet stove two years ago and have replaced the blower motor twice due to a loud whining / squealing noise that comes from the unit after a few months use. I never run the stove higher than 3. I am now on my third blower motor. Just like the others after two months of use, it is starting to make the same noise. I believe that the noise is being caused by the blower motor getting too hot and then damaging the bearings to a point where the continuously whine. I took the back panel cover off today while it was running and grabbed the motor and it was very hot. When I replaced the second motor the Breckwell tech had me take the whole stove apart and check to see all seams where sealed and to replace the insulation. I did find a couple places that needed caulk. But, nothing that should cause the motor to get too hot. I just think the motor is too close to the firewall and there’s not enough air circulation.

I would like to know if anyone else is having blower motor squeal/whine noises from there Breckwell stoves. I asked Breckwell and they said they have not had any complaints from any other owners. I will be calling them again but not sure what to do. I really don’t want to replace the motor yet again. It is very irritating because the stove is in our living room and I cannot hear the TV even when the stove is on lvl 2. I THINK IM GONNA THROW IT IN THE CREEK!!

Any help would be appreciated!

I have a Breckwell P23 Insert, which is going on its 3rd convection fan in 3 seasons. Same symptoms you are having. First one lasted a season and a half (the original install)... I bought a replacement last year and now halfway into the season it is dying too... It seems the fan is a definite design flaw, as it cannot cope with either the heat or running constantly or both. When I got the brand new fan, I noticed it spun very easily.. after just using the stove for a short while the spin (manually) was noticably binded more, not hard to turn but not as easy as when new. This one failed rather quickly and with little whine/noise warning. I stopped the stove for a cleaning, when starting up, the fan just wounld not spin. Hard to turn manually. I took it out, put a drop or two of machine oil on the shaft at the end of the motor bell and got a 100% improvement. Put it back in the stove and it worked.... for now but within a day it is making noise again so I know it will die permenantly very soon.

I am hoping the new part that is now available I have on order will finally fix this problem. If not, it's off to the aftermarket to look for a more durable fan... It is very bad that a stove was designed with a fan that basically needs to be run at #1 setting 90% of the time.

 

[mwj1]

I have 3 pellet stoves - Breckwell P24I, P23I and Whitfield free standing. Since they are over 5 years old, I have started up the dreaded path of learning how to maintain them beyond the normal cleaning and such.

I have a question relating to a convection blower on my P24I. My stove shut down and I pulled the mess out of the fireplace and checked the convection blower. It was hard to turn by hand. So, I pulled it out and worked in a bit of WD-40 and oil. Well, this made the motor turn very freely and I was feeling good. However, when I re-installed the blower it shut down again. When I checked the motor, it was very hot. So, I pulled it out again and ran it on my bench. Sure enough, it is running hot but very easy to turn.

My question - could my motor be running hot because I put too much oil/WD-40 in it? Also, is there some way to check if these motors are bad by measuring current draw?

I love pellet stoves, but I have concluded that if you are going to use them, you may as well accept the fact that you will have to become a very capable pellet stove technician.

mwj

 

[DMUSU]

For: Fire Honor Society

Thanks for the helpful info. We also were having the problem for quite some some with whining motor, then it wouldn't start up when you start the stove with out a little manual push. After applying just a little oil it works like brand new. It's been about 5 days since it was oiled and still going. Either way it helped, saved from buying a new one or even prolonged the life of this one enough to heat the rest of the season.

Thanks again!!

 

[kinsmanstoves]

Quick question

You fellas with the bad combustion blowers, what is your exhaust? 3" or 4"?
What is the over all length and how many elbows and tees are you using?
Please refer to your owner's manual and figure out your EVL formula. If you are close to the 15 GO TO A 4" pipe.
Where is your dealer or did you get a great deal at Tractor Supply?

Eric
330-876-0200

 

[gtkim]

I have the same problem with the breckwell convection blower. I am on my 2nd blower in 4 seasons. First one lasted about 2.5 seasons. the recent lasted 1.5 seasons. First cost $140 and my labor. Called breckwell about the most recent failure and they said that replacements are only waranteed for 90 days. They want 190 for a new blower. Breckwells suck This should not happen. Having said that, I still have to deal with the problem.

I found a link to a suitable replacement for my blower and do not have to go through breckwell and therefore save a bunch of $

http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/fasco/fasco_blower.htm
Catalog Number B24220
Price $79.86

The above comes with the casing and the squirl cage blower. I believe I can get the motor out by removing the set screw on the colar. Then if I could just find the motor (FASCO 7072112105), I could bolt the new one in and save some more dough. Has anyone found just a motor replacement or a suitable modification for this blower nightmare?

 

[jtakeman]

http://www.fasco.com/pdf/p12.pdf

I think its the D208. It's been a while.

(broken link removed to http://www.cshincorporated.com/product_info.php/products_id/7336)

They also have the whole unit

(broken link removed to http://www.cshincorporated.com/product_info.php/products_id/1654)

 

[gtkim]

Thanks Jtakeman
D208 looks like it could be a suitable replacement. The A dimension (length of the casing) looks a little shorter. Mine is about 4 inches and all the dimensions are exact with the link below. The motor being a bitt shorter might not matter. I am more worried that the bolt holes line up on the motor to the blower casing so I do not have to drill new ones. If I have to do casing mods I might as well buy the whole assembly. Have you ever done just the motor replacement?

http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/fasco/fasco_blower.htm
Catalog Number B24220

 

[jtakeman]

No I replace with this one.

(broken link removed to http://www.cshincorporated.com/product_info.php/products_id/1654)

Its only $55.85 plus the shipping.

jay

 

[Jwgirardi]

I have found out that Breckwells aren't designed very well to remove the heat in the chamber. I have two. A pf-22 and a PF-26. I have removed the rear plate on both. This has put a stop to the frequent motor over heating. Also, once I hear the first sign of a squeak or squeal, I remove the motor blow it out with a compressor, and lube all moving parts with a teflon lubricant. So, far, I've done this twice with my large unit over 8 years and once with my smaller unit over 6 years. Hope this helps. I have only gone thru one motor between the two units in 8 years.

 

[Jwgirardi]

Data on new blower
Looking at it i think they have a smaller Blower wheel that the old
the blower wheel is 3.5" accross x 1.75 wide
the motor is 3000 RPM Fasco motor part # 70211215

I dont see why they have to have so much RPM this make noise

Travis uses a Larger blower wheel with a 1500 RPM motor. Half the speed but twice the size of blower wheel.

Travis also has 3 dependent Rubber bushing in the motor mount to the Blower housing to keep vibration down.

If you use this blower on a larger unit, make sure to change the wheel from the old unit to the new unit. I found out that the 1.75" width does not give enough air flow on the bigger units to remove the heat , and the stove goes out on high limit. The wheel for the larger units are 2.0 " wide. its a 10% difference in air flow. And it makes the unit run quieter too.