Breckwell P4000 fuse keeps blowing

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buggs_moran

Member
Dec 20, 2011
27
Central MA
I gave my stove it's weekly cleaning last night. When I turned it back on the 5A 125V fuse blew on the control panel. I replaced it and that blew within seconds, tried again without luck. The combustion blower and auger both turned on as they always had. I figured that perhaps something was jamming the auger so I took the whole thing apart today. I tested the auger motor with a hot wire and it turns fine. I cleaned out the auger flight, which was very clean, very low fines. I checked all the wires for breaks and connections to the components. I put everything back together and it blew again. I don't know much about using a multimeter to test so I am kind of lost. I can't find anything like the service manuals for Breckwell that would tell me what voltages or amps to be looking for (found plenty of others). I've tried the other things on their troubleshooting guide. Obviously something is drawing too much current. Any ideas?
 

heat seeker

Minister of Fire
Feb 25, 2011
3,142
Northern CT
Is this an auto-start? I'd bet you pinched a wire somewhere, probably going to the ignitor. If you can, use your meter to measure the leads of the ignitor to ground (stove unplugged!).
 

buggs_moran

Member
Dec 20, 2011
27
Central MA
Thanks, I can do that, but I don't know what I am looking for... Resistance? Continuity? Should I check all the wires that way?
 
I

imacman

Guest
Thanks, I can do that, but I don't know what I am looking for... Resistance? Continuity? Should I check all the wires that way?
Just unplug one lead going to the ignitor and see if the stove will start w/o blowing the fuse. Other check of ignitor is to check resistance....the ignitor should read somewhere around 45-48 ohms
 

heat seeker

Minister of Fire
Feb 25, 2011
3,142
Northern CT
If either ignitor lead reads near zero Ω to ground, the wiring or the ignitor is shorted to ground. imacman's method is simpler, but I would disconnect both leads in case the one you didn't disconnect was the shorted one.
You can check all the motor wiring to ground, look for low resistance, same as for the ignitor.
 

Mr. Spock

Minister of Fire
Jan 2, 2013
680
SW MA
Sure does sound like a short. Already mentioned but worth repeating, UNPLUG THE STOVE before doing anything. If you do have a short to frame ground, loose wire or whatever you could get a not so pleasant surprise or worse. Not trying to scare ya just be safe!
 

buggs_moran

Member
Dec 20, 2011
27
Central MA
Wouldn't a short kill the fuse instantaneously? When I turn the stove on the convection blower starts, the auger runs and then the stove stops. I wish there was a sequence timing chart for these stoves...

And just so I understand all of this, power is being sent to each component individually and when it goes to start the ignitor, some wire is touching the frame at some point or the ignitor is bad? Sorry if I sound clueless.
 

Thaddius Wenderoth

Feeling the Heat
Jan 21, 2013
249
Wouldn't a short kill the fuse instantaneously? When I turn the stove on the convection blower starts, the auger runs and then the stove stops. I wish there was a sequence timing chart for these stoves...

And just so I understand all of this, power is being sent to each component individually and when it goes to start the ignitor, some wire is touching the frame at some point or the ignitor is bad? Sorry if I sound clueless.
That is correct. Sounds like you are grounding somewhere. If the blower and auger run and then it blowes then it sounds like the ignitor. Use the resistance setting and see if any lead is giving minimal resistance. That will be your culprit.
 

kinsmanstoves

Minister of Fire
Ground issue or bad igniter.

Eric
 

Mr. Spock

Minister of Fire
Jan 2, 2013
680
SW MA
Wouldn't a short kill the fuse instantaneously? When I turn the stove on the convection blower starts, the auger runs and then the stove stops. I wish there was a sequence timing chart for these stoves...

And just so I understand all of this, power is being sent to each component individually and when it goes to start the ignitor, some wire is touching the frame at some point or the ignitor is bad? Sorry if I sound clueless.
I just wanted to add - don't hesitate to ask questions if you don't understand something. That is how you learn.
There is a lot of knowledgable experienced folk here willing to help you out.
 
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buggs_moran

Member
Dec 20, 2011
27
Central MA
Continuity throughout the wires and ignitor. Resistance on the ignitor was only 10 ohms. I think I'll just replace the ignitor...
 

buggs_moran

Member
Dec 20, 2011
27
Central MA
This leads me to my next question, can I run the stove without the ignitor? I imagine so. The only problem is what do I do with the loose wires? Tape 'em up?
 
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