Brick Hearth - Basement Concrete Foundation Help

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frased

Member
Apr 1, 2018
99
MA
Hi all I’m doing a brick floor and wall shield.

Do I apply thin layer of mortar on floor... then lay bricks?

Or do I lay bricks directly on flat concrete foundation floor then fill in with mortar? Like tile work. But no mortar needed under bricks?

On the 36” high walls around stove I’m going to do 1 inch air gap and use brick ties behind it. I’ll probably leave combustible wall behind since it’s insulated. I could remove combustible wall and do brick ties directly to concrete foundation but afraid of losing all my heat through convection.


Thoughts or opinions?
 
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Lay the floor on a bed of mortar. As far as the back wall goes what stove are you using? Do you need clearance reduction? Does the manufacturer allow for it?
 
Vermont Castings Encore... because of the area in my finished basement I’m using I need to do reduced clearance wall/heat shield.

I’m not doing the heat shield on the stove itself.

What’s your opinion on the wall shield? Will the brick ties 1 inch air gap do the job according to code? Would you leave the insulated combustible wall behind it or remove for exposed 36” foundation wall?
 
Lay the floor on a bed of mortar. As far as the back wall goes what stove are you using? Do you need clearance reduction? Does the manufacturer allow for it?

I think I know what you mean... in other words do I even need the brick behind or beside the stove if it’s exposed concrete foundation wall (if I removed the combustible wall)?
 
I think I know what you mean... in other words do I even need the brick behind or beside the stove if it’s exposed concrete foundation wall (if I removed the combustible wall)?
No i am saying you dont need brick if you meet required clearances dont get rid of insulation unless absolutly nessecary. And then replace it with non combustible insulation and framing.
 
No i am saying you dont need brick if you meet required clearances dont get rid of insulation unless absolutly nessecary. And then replace it with non combustible insulation and framing.

It’s in a corner of the room that doesn’t meet the required clearances. It’s a U shaped area.

I think my best option is to leave the current framing insulation that is currently in place and reduce clearances with brick/wall shield 1 inch air gap all around it. Sounds like removing framing and insulation would cause a colder room?
 
It’s in a corner of the room that doesn’t meet the required clearances. It’s a U shaped area.

I think my best option is to leave the current framing insulation that is currently in place and reduce clearances with brick/wall shield 1 inch air gap all around it. Sounds like removing framing and insulation would cause a colder room?
Yes dont remove the insulation without replacing it. Brick will work as a sh at ild but you will need a gap at the bottom as well to let air in. That is difficult to do with brick. I assume you already have the stove but i would look at reveiws of the stove before getting to involved. They are problematic stoves. What type of chimney will it be hooked to?
 
Yes dont remove the insulation without replacing it. Brick will work as a sh at ild but you will need a gap at the bottom as well to let air in. That is difficult to do with brick. I assume you already have the stove but i would look at reveiws of the stove before getting to involved. They are problematic stoves. What type of chimney will it be hooked to?

$3200 stove already purchased done. No replacing that. Not worried past that part.

8 inch manufacturered chimney all parts secured as well.

Just need to finalize wall n floor.

I think the brick wall ties will give me my 1” gap behind and I can work on air gap below.
 
$3200 stove already purchased done. No replacing that. Not worried past that part.

8 inch manufacturered chimney all parts secured as well.

Just need to finalize wall n floor.

I think the brick wall ties will give me my 1” gap behind and I can work on air gap below.
Why not just use the heat sheild on the stove. Or do you need both?

I just wanted to make sure you had proper clearances going through the wall if it was a masonry chimney. But if you are using prefab and follow those instructions that is no concern
 
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Why not just use the heat sheild on the stove. Or do you need both?

I just wanted to make sure you had proper clearances going through the wall if it was a masonry chimney. But if you are using prefab and follow those instructions that is no concern

Roger that... I already have 420 unused bricks so wanted to utilize those instead of buying the heat shield for the stove. They can be pricey.

Was going to do this on side brick walls...

 
Nope... brand new never a lit flame in it.

So all I have left to buy is wall ties and mortar.

I’m thinking the wall ties would qualify as non combustible spacers.
Yes wall ties will be fine
 
And get used to those pricey parts you will be buying plenty.
 
Roger that... I already have 420 unused bricks so wanted to utilize those instead of buying the heat shield for the stove. They can be pricey.

Was going to do this on side brick walls...


And yes a sheild like that will be fine. Is 36" high enough though?
 
The encore came with the rear heat shield last I knew. Maybe I’m thinking of the non cat?
 
I don’t mean to be offensive to you in any way. You obviously have the internet, how did you land on the Encore as your stove of choice?
 
I don’t mean to be offensive to you in any way. You obviously have the internet, how did you land on the Encore as your stove of choice?

I know people that have them they are bulletproof. I’m not worried. No offense taken. Chevy vs Ford.
 
I know people that have them they are bulletproof. I’m not worried. No offense taken. Chevy vs Ford.
They are many things but bulletproof is not one of them i hope it works out well for you.

And its more like chevy vs jaguar. Simple and functional vs very pretty but problematic.

Before you go with 8" check the manual many of them only needed 8" if you were going to use it in fireplace mode with the doors open. And 6" would be cheaper and leave more options in the future
 
I know people that have them they are bulletproof. I’m not worried. No offense taken. Chevy vs Ford.
Ohh boy...
I work on them day in and day out. I can tell you my man, they are far from bulletproof. I can name a dozen stoves that are, VC does not make that list. Anyone who thinks their VC has never had a problem has never opened it up and taken a look in the back. Sorry to say
 
They are many things but bulletproof is not one of them i hope it works out well for you.

And its more like chevy vs jaguar. Simple and functional vs very pretty but problematic.

Before you go with 8" check the manual many of them only needed 8" if you were going to use it in fireplace mode with the doors open. And 6" would be cheaper and leave more options in the future

I get it. We have these debates trailside too. Polaris vs Kawasaki vs can-am or Chevy vs Ford etc. I have no remorse with a Vermont Castings. Not here to debate brand favorites.

Really this post was hearth related. I’ve done research Q n A on stoves chimney size etc. past that.