Broken switch on table saw

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Easy Livin’ 3000

Minister of Fire
Dec 23, 2015
3,018
SEPA
I have a low end Delta table saw with a broken switch. I'm no electrician, but I'm sure a can tackle fixing this... with some advice from my hearth buddies. It has a 15 amp motor. What kind of switch do I get?

I'm not going for a factory replacement, it's poor design is what caused it to fail in the first place, and there are no kids around here that warrant the safety switch that came on it.
 
I would get a standard house wiring 20 amp switch. You can get in HD,
 
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No, don't get a standard house switch to run a motor! The inrush current will kill it in short order. Get a heavy duty type switch that's rated for motors. It looks the same externally, but the guts are made to take the high startup current of a motor.
 
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No, don't get a standard house switch to run a motor! The inrush current will kill it in short order. Get a heavy duty type switch that's rated for motors. It looks the same externally, but the guts are made to take the high startup current of a motor.
Well that was a close one! Where does one find such a switch? Thanks heat seeker.
 
Any good hardware store will have them. They cost a bit more than a standard switch, but will do the job for you. They even make them for 220 volt applications. I recently bought one of those, and it cost, IIRC, about $15. A 120 volt switch should be a lot less than that.
 
There is lot to be said for buying an easy to operate "Estop" type switch compared to a standard wall switch.https://woodworker.com/onoff-switch-with-stop-enclosure-mssu-140-066.asp?search=power switch&searchmode=2.

When you really need it, you want to be able to kill the saw quick, no fumbling around. Hard to flip a switch when you have sawn off a finger or two :eek:
I know folks who have. My unisaw has a push button switch and I know I even fumble a bit when I want to turn it off.
 
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There is lot to be said for buying an easy to operate "Estop" type switch compared to a standard wall switch.https://woodworker.com/onoff-switch-with-stop-enclosure-mssu-140-066.asp?search=power switch&searchmode=2.

When you really need it, you want to be able to kill the saw quick, no fumbling around. Hard to flip a switch when you have sawn off a finger or two :eek:
I know folks who have. My unisaw has a push button switch and I know I even fumble a bit when I want to turn it off.
I hear ya. I'm terrified of the thing. I've had kickbacks on both the table saw and radial arm that were about an inch away from leaving me singing a few octaves higher permanently.

Thanks for the link. I'd hate to pay more for a switch than I paid for the saw ($20 at a yard sale). I'm only going to be using it infrequently, but switching it on and off with the switch on the power strip makes me even more nervous.
 
peakbagger nice switch. that will even make it easy to install than trying to adapt a regular toggle switch
 
Thanks for the link. I'd hate to pay more for a switch than I paid for the saw ($20 at a yard sale). I'm only going to be using it infrequently, but switching it on and off with the switch on the power strip makes me even more nervous.
Maybe a less expensive but still safe option: It may not mount as easily though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-2p...tton-Switch-/401287992880?hash=item5d6ea0d630
m_drvSbM_0Hool3QG9oJcdA.jpg
 
Might want to try digging in the net for a manual on the saw - some of these units have fusible links to prevent overloads which may or may not be part of the switch assembly.
 
Might want to try digging in the net for a manual on the saw - some of these units have fusible links to prevent overloads which may or may not be part of the switch assembly.
Thanks blades. What are fusible links, and what do I need to worry about?
 
An electrical fusible link is a type of electrical fuse that is constructed simply with a short piece of wire typically four American wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire that is being protected. For example, an AWG 16 fusible link might be used to protect AWG 12 wiring. Electrical fusible links are common in high-current automotive applications. The wire in an electrical fusible link is encased in high-temperature fire-resistant insulation to reduce hazards when the wire melts.
The wire melts on overload
 
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An electrical fusible link is a type of electrical fuse that is constructed simply with a short piece of wire typically four American wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire that is being protected. For example, an AWG 16 fusible link might be used to protect AWG 12 wiring. Electrical fusible links are common in high-current automotive applications. The wire in an electrical fusible link is encased in high-temperature fire-resistant insulation to reduce hazards when the wire melts.
The wire melts on overload
Nice explanation, even I understood exactly what they are! Now, what do I need to worry about if they are there?
 
Works like a glass fuse wire melts fuse blown need to be replaced
Have never seen one or heard of one in a saw switch or wiring
If it were part of a switch then the switch would need to be replaced
Only ever seen them in Chrysler products (cars and trucks )
So don't get lead down the garden path
 
Works like a glass fuse wire melts fuse blown need to be replaced
Have never seen one or heard of one in a saw switch or wiring
If it were part of a switch then the switch would need to be replaced
Only ever seen them in Chrysler products (cars and trucks )
So don't get lead down the garden path
Thanks John. I hear ya.
 
Ridgid used them in table saws, part of the motor assembly but external to the motor proper. Buried in the back of the electrical connection box on motor. Seen a few others floating around over the years as well. Just a heads up. ( a cheap way to get UL compliance vs a autoreset or manual thermal interrupt)
Only reason I brought it up was a customer of mine had a saw go down - replaced switch still no go, they called me about a new motor of course the price of same was about the price of the saw new. Unique mounting which ruled out generic replacement., typical of chi-com type stuff. So upshot is if a different switch does not correct problem trace the leads ( disconnected from the power source of course ) from the plug( or power terminal connection) to the field and armature windings as one run. Another sneaky problem caused by vibration mostly, is a lead broken inside its insulating sleeve. Crimped on connectors are notorious for this as well.
 
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No, don't get a standard house switch to run a motor!
Been using a standard cheap $1 household switch for many years on my table saw. After I burned up a much more expensive toggle switch (it was even motor rated) I just decided to try the inexpensive option just to see, and its been working fine ever since.
 
Been using a standard cheap $1 household switch for many years on my table saw. After I burned up a much more expensive toggle switch (it was even motor rated) I just decided to try the inexpensive option just to see, and its been working fine ever since.

Hard to find emergency stop on that saw !!
But why would you need that ??
 
Hard to find emergency stop on that saw !!
But why would you need that ??
Not sure if I follow you there, my saw had no 'emergency stop' I just replaced one toggle switch with another. I wouldn't suggest to disable a safety feature if the saw was equipped with one.
 
All three of my saws have a slap shut off switch . All Delta saws
5 horse Unisaw --1 horse contractor saw and portable saw on wheel stand
Not a flip switch in sight just BIG RED OFF BUTTONS
Safety First
 
All three of my saws have a slap shut off switch . All Delta saws
5 horse Unisaw --1 horse contractor saw and portable saw on wheel stand
Not a flip switch in sight just BIG RED OFF BUTTONS
Safety First
Is this stock on these saws, or mods?
 
Yeah I won't use a table saw without a switch I can shut off easily with my knee. I was a professional cabinet maker for years and if you feel it binding you want to be able to kill the saw quick without letting go of the work peice.
 
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