Howdy --
Long time reader (well, since I got the stove last year), first time poster. I bought a Buck 27000 last year for $300 on CL, which seemed like a great deal at the time
I slapped it into a masonry chimney, opened the damper in the flue, installed the front plates, and used it for a year. I knew it wasn't ideal, but it was cold and I wanted to be prepared in case we lost power (which we did for 4 days) so I went with it.
The chimney is in great shape -- brick up to about 8 ft, and then another 12 ft or so of ceramic block flue (the rounded square blocks) up to the top, with a cap/spark arrestor on top.
This year, I decided to go with a flue liner before we fired it up. Of course, that cost more than twice what I paid for the stove, but... I got the 8" duravent liner, the rockwool insulation, and my pops helped me get it installed.
Here's the problem: we ran into an issue with the stove not lining up properly. We busted out a few bricks, and gave ourselves as much room as possible, but without starting to cut into the front masonry (which I don't want to hurt because that's what's separating the chimney from the living room sheetrock), we just couldn't get the Buck adapter to sit flush. In the manual, it says to only use that adapter for freestanding installs, but I figured it's okay to use here.
I ordered two 90 degree adjustable elbows from a supply shop, and we're going to install one or both on Saturday. I know it's preferable to have no bends or changes in direction, but are there any issues with using these? It doesn't seem like the pieces make an air tight seal. Once installed, do I have to hit the seams with masonry sealant / fluegoo? Is it okay to seal everything with fluegoo, or will I have to remove pieces for cleaning?
The Buck rectangle to circle adapter doesn't bolt down - it just sits in place. Should I put an L bracket on each side and screw it in place to keep it snug? I assume self tapping sheet metal screws are okay in that kind of heat.
I also plan to fill the remaining space in the fireplace cavity with roxul batts once the fireplace is in place. Any benefit to doing that, or is that overkill?
I've got lots of dry wood I've been itching to use. Can't wait for this weekend. Thanks for reading this and any advice you can give.
Long time reader (well, since I got the stove last year), first time poster. I bought a Buck 27000 last year for $300 on CL, which seemed like a great deal at the time
I slapped it into a masonry chimney, opened the damper in the flue, installed the front plates, and used it for a year. I knew it wasn't ideal, but it was cold and I wanted to be prepared in case we lost power (which we did for 4 days) so I went with it.The chimney is in great shape -- brick up to about 8 ft, and then another 12 ft or so of ceramic block flue (the rounded square blocks) up to the top, with a cap/spark arrestor on top.
This year, I decided to go with a flue liner before we fired it up. Of course, that cost more than twice what I paid for the stove, but... I got the 8" duravent liner, the rockwool insulation, and my pops helped me get it installed.
Here's the problem: we ran into an issue with the stove not lining up properly. We busted out a few bricks, and gave ourselves as much room as possible, but without starting to cut into the front masonry (which I don't want to hurt because that's what's separating the chimney from the living room sheetrock), we just couldn't get the Buck adapter to sit flush. In the manual, it says to only use that adapter for freestanding installs, but I figured it's okay to use here.
I ordered two 90 degree adjustable elbows from a supply shop, and we're going to install one or both on Saturday. I know it's preferable to have no bends or changes in direction, but are there any issues with using these? It doesn't seem like the pieces make an air tight seal. Once installed, do I have to hit the seams with masonry sealant / fluegoo? Is it okay to seal everything with fluegoo, or will I have to remove pieces for cleaning?
The Buck rectangle to circle adapter doesn't bolt down - it just sits in place. Should I put an L bracket on each side and screw it in place to keep it snug? I assume self tapping sheet metal screws are okay in that kind of heat.
I also plan to fill the remaining space in the fireplace cavity with roxul batts once the fireplace is in place. Any benefit to doing that, or is that overkill?
I've got lots of dry wood I've been itching to use. Can't wait for this weekend. Thanks for reading this and any advice you can give.
