Buck Stove 21 door won't seal

[dragobert]

Hi All, I have a Buck Stove 21 fireplace insert (non-catalytic) that I've been using for about 7 years no problem. This year the door stopped sealing well, and was leaking air through the top, bottom, and latch sides. I assumed the rope gasket needed replacement, so I carefully re-did that with the 3/4" rope straight from Buck Stove. It didn't solve the problem. So I did it again even more carefully, still no help.

The rope gasket looks and feels right, but it appears the door isn't closing tight enough. There is too much space between the latch on the door, and the hooked catch mechanism on the stove body.

The handle and latch has a lot of play in it. I have the model with just a single Philips screw on the inside. I've tightened that and it doesn't help. The user manual, with the diagram for the latch and handle is HERE, on page 44, and I think I have everything positioned correctly.

I don't see any obvious warping of my door, the hinges or stove body.

here are some photos of my set up:

I'm stumped. Any suggestions?

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

Hi All, I have a Buck Stove 21 fireplace insert (non-catalytic) that I've been using for about 7 years no problem. This year the door stopped sealing well, and was leaking air through the top, bottom, and latch sides. I assumed the rope gasket needed replacement, so I carefully re-did that with the 3/4" rope straight from Buck Stove. It didn't solve the problem. So I did it again even more carefully, still no help.

The rope gasket looks and feels right, but it appears the door isn't closing tight enough. There is too much space between the latch on the door, and the hooked catch mechanism on the stove body.

The handle and latch has a lot of play in it. I have the model with just a single Philips screw on the inside. I've tightened that and it doesn't help. The user manual, with the diagram for the latch and handle is HERE, on page 44, and I think I have everything positioned correctly.

I don't see any obvious warping of my door, the hinges or stove body.

here are some photos of my set up:

I'm stumped. Any suggestions?

I'm not sure you would see it unless it was really bad or you've got extremely good eyesight. Do you have a straight edge you can check it with?

Is the latch mechanism different than it was? I can't tell if the part of the handle that goes through the door is worn down? Is it loose when it's in the door? Close the door and latch it and then push in on the door and see if it gives any.

Have you checked the hinges? Open the door a few inches and wiggle it up and down and side to side and see if there is too much play in them. Check the hinges and pins and see if they are bent.

 

[Woody Stover]

I can't tell if the part of the handle that goes through the door is worn down? Is it loose when it's in the door? Close the door and latch it and then push in on the door and see if it gives any.

IIRC, the handle on the Buck 91 flopped around a bit when you had the door open, but still closed the door tightly when cinched down.
It was constructed differently than the one in the posted manual, though...it had a different adjustment mechanism.
I guess on his, you would need to get some more of those OEM washers, hopefully finding a combination that would put the right pressure on the gasket to seal the door.
You can email Buckstove and see if they have any suggestions. I found them to be helpful when I had a question.
But yeah, check the hinges for wear, as suggested. The more info you have when you contact them, the better.

 

[dragobert]

Thanks - I just placed a straight edge on both the door and the stove body, and they are fine (not warped). The hinges are straight. The hinges don't have much play or appear worn, but they tip out away from the stove very slightly. I don't *think* that is the issue because the air leaks from the bottom and latch side, not just the top edge

The issue seems to be in the latch, but I can't understand why it would be different now. The handle and latch have a lot of play, and when the door is closed / latched I still push it forward and back 5 mm. It never used to be like that, and that gap is how the air leaks in. I thought that if I had a new gasket it would take care of that, but it didn't help ... I used the 3/4" rope recommended on the user manual, it fits perfectly into the gasket channel, and I didn't stretch it when I put it in.

The side with the hinges does NOT leak air, I can't pass a dollar bill through that gap, so it seems the hinges and gasket are doing their job on that side of the door.

The handle and latch do not appear excessively worn. I wondered if there was some other washer or piece that fell off it somehow ... but I can't see any missing pieces when I look at the owner's manual. I have all the pieces that are listed.

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

Thanks - I just placed a straight edge on both the door and the stove body, and they are fine (not warped). The hinges are straight. The hinges don't have much play or appear worn, but they tip out away from the stove very slightly. I don't *think* that is the issue because the air leaks from the bottom and latch side, not just the top edge

The issue seems to be in the latch, but I can't understand why it would be different now. The handle and latch have a lot of play, and when the door is closed / latched I still push it forward and back 5 mm. It never used to be like that, and that gap is how the air leaks in. I thought that if I had a new gasket it would take care of that, but it didn't help ... I used the 3/4" rope recommended on the user manual, it fits perfectly into the gasket channel, and I didn't stretch it when I put it in.

The side with the hinges does NOT leak air, I can't pass a dollar bill through that gap, so it seems the hinges and gasket are doing their job on that side of the door.

The handle and latch do not appear excessively worn. I wondered if there was some other washer or piece that fell off it somehow ... but I can't see any missing pieces when I look at the owner's manual. I have all the pieces that are listed.

Good. Then one last thing to make sure of is that the catch on the stove that the handle locks into isn't tweaked. It looks good in the pic.

I didn't see the video till now. It looks like there could be a sleeve missing? That's a lot of play

 

[dragobert]

I think that could work. If I push the door closed firmly it seals. And if I slide 1/8" - 3/16" thickness metal between the latch and hook it puts enough pressure on it to seal. It's still a mystery to me why it suddenly changed after 7 years.

 

[dragobert]

If it had a sleeve, the problem would be solved ... maybe that's the issue. And my kid might be the reason why it suddenly changed

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

If it had a sleeve, the problem would be solved ... maybe that's the issue. And my kid might be the reason why it suddenly changed

was he working on the stove, helping daddy?

 

[Woody Stover]

I didn't see the video till now. It looks like there could be a sleeve missing? That's a lot of play

Video? Where's that?
I can't tell for sure in the manual pic, but it looks like both the thin spacer PO910104 and the PO21SPACER are on the latch side of the mounting plate, not on the handle side? Have you tried leaving one or the other out to see if that tightens it up? Looks like it would..same net effect as slipping that metal stock in there like you did.
Maybe the bushing has worn over the years...but, yeah, strange that the problem seemed to pop up all of a sudden. I guess it could, though.
All of those parts are available, it appears in the manual. You could ask them how long that bushing is supposed to be, then measure yours to see if it's worn.

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

Video? Where's that?

post 1, 5th attachment

 

[dragobert]

Video? Where's that?
I can't tell for sure in the manual pic, but it looks like both the thin spacer PO910104 and the PO21SPACER are on the latch side of the mounting plate, not on the handle side? Have you tried leaving one or the other out to see if that tightens it up? Looks like it would..same net effect as slipping that metal stock in there like you did.
Maybe the bushing has worn over the years...but, yeah, strange that the problem seemed to pop up all of a sudden. I guess it could, though.
All of those parts are available, it appears in the manual. You could ask them how long that bushing is supposed to be, then measure yours to see if it's worn.

Yep, I tried putting both of the spacers on the same side, and then not having them at all, neither helped. If the catch mechanism had a sleeve it would solve it. When I called Buck Stove they weren't much help, but maybe if I email them they'll get the question to someone who knows their beans.

 

[Woody Stover]

post 1, 5th attachment

Yeah, that looks pretty loose. Worn bushing? Or maybe where the bushing seats on the handle is worn? Or both?

 

[Woody Stover]

When I called Buck Stove they weren't much help, but maybe if I email them they'll get the question to someone who knows their beans.

Yeah, try email. They were hit pretty hard by Helene, so I'm not sure how that might have affected their operation. Not to mention the 2020 EPA regulations, and now the loss of the federal tax credit when buying a stove.