Buck stoves/ flue size

[lowcostheat]

Much has been opined/written reference 8" vs 6" liners on buck inserts and chimney on buck stoves. Most modern stoves and EPA stoves only need a 6" flue and it is reported that many Bucks burn quite happily with the smaller flue. Is it because they are hampered by the excess of air inlet (3 dampers, center, left, right on the 80 model) or some design feature. Currently this model 80 is connected to a 8" to 7" reducer and 5' of connector pipe and 7" insulated class A chimney terminating 25' above the floor on which the stove sets. A new chimney is desired because of continued water leakage onto the top of the stove despite several contractor attempts to remedy and a new roof a year ago. I would like some discussion/insight into the science/need for 8" vent while being quite aware of the install manuals/codes/NFPA writings. Most requirements have a work arounds right?

 

[bholler]

Much has been opined/written reference 8" vs 6" liners on buck inserts and chimney on buck stoves. Most modern stoves and EPA stoves only need a 6" flue and it is reported that many Bucks burn quite happily with the smaller flue. Is it because they are hampered by the excess of air inlet (3 dampers, center, left, right on the 80 model) or some design feature. Currently this model 80 is connected to a 8" to 7" reducer and 5' of connector pipe and 7" insulated class A chimney terminating 25' above the floor on which the stove sets. A new chimney is desired because of continued water leakage onto the top of the stove despite several contractor attempts to remedy and a new roof a year ago. I would like some discussion/insight into the science/need for 8" vent while being quite aware of the install manuals/codes/NFPA writings. Most requirements have a work arounds right?

They require 8" because that is what the engineers determined is needed to make the stove work properly. And no most requirements don't have a workaround.

Now what makes you think you need a new chimney simply because of a leak?

 

[lowcostheat]

They require 8" because that is what the engineers determined is needed to make the stove work properly. And no most requirements don't have a workaround. You missed the question my friend.

Now what makes you think you need a new chimney simply because of a leak? The owner of the home is tired of having water sit on top of his stove and contacted me because of reference and observing work on another job to get it done so it does not leak. Several years and contractors attempts have ultimately failed. I did not say he needed a new chimney, he said he wanted one. A representative for the chimney brand which I will not mention said the chimney has been discontinued and that they have had problems with it in the past. Now you can join a discussion or not. Codes are full of ways to meet a requirement.

 

[bholler]

Well if you told us what chimney it is we may be able to help you fix the leak. I deal with chimneys and the codes concerning them. You don't want to find a way around them they are there for very good reasons. How will your customer feel if you put in the wrong size chimney and it causes the velocity in the stack to increase so much you destroy their stove. Or the chimney is on the shorter side and it reduces volume enough to keep the stove from burning properly. Trust the engineers who designed and tested the stove.

 

[Woody Stover]

it is reported that many Bucks burn quite happily with the smaller flue. Is it because they are hampered by the excess of air inlet (3 dampers, center, left, right on the 80 model) or some design feature.

The problem that I ran into on the Buck 91 I had at my MIL's house was that the sealing plates on the control rods were hanging too far down, away from the air inlets. Even with the air shut all the way, too much air was entering the box and the cat was getting too hot, pushing 1800* if I wasn't very careful when establishing the load, that I didn't get too much wood burning and gassing. The easiest fix I heard of here was to remove the screws holding the plates to the control rods, remove the rods, and bow them up slightly over your knee. That would hold the plates closer to the openings, giving you better control over the air. I never got to try that fix, as my MIL passed and the house was sold.
Nothing has happened with the house, and I'd still like to get that 91 outta there and install it in one of a couple of homes of acquiantances. Man, I loved that stove..