Bucking Tips - even lengths

[jebatty]

I've got a wood stove (16" lengths are perfect) and a gasification boiler (18" lengths are perfect). Have tried several methods to insure even lengths, mostly because they stack so much easier.

Latest idea (not likely original) was to take a #9 steel wire, make a loop the diameter of a washer on one end and weld it to the washer; bend at a right angle the desired length (16 or 18), and then bend another right angle a couple of inches long.

Remove one nut from the chainsaw that holds the bar on, insert the washer-wire assembly, and then tighten that nut back on. Now you have a measuring wire extending at a right angle from the saw, with the bent end being the guide to place against the end of the log. Every cut is accurate within 1/4" or so. The wire just bends out of the way as you make each cut.

What ideas do others have to make even length cuts?

 

[Adios Pantalones]

I use the bar as an 18" measure but admit it gets tiring on small stuff so I just eyeball it and cut shortish. When I cut 40" lengths for the kiln I use a separate stick. I've found that if you stack in a holz, then you're only looking at one end anyway, so uneven lengths are less of an aesthetic issue.

 

[carbon neutral]

Here are links to two products offered by baileys. The first is very similar to what you described. I like the Mingo because I think it would be very fast.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=47150&catID=14
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=265&catID;=

 

[gpcollen1]

Why not just use a pre-measured stick and marking paint or something like it? I usually just go with eyeing it. Once you practice enough, it is very easy to get it down. Just stop second guessing...

 

[WOODBUTCHER]

(We cut to 20") So we use a couple pieces of wood strapping marked every 20" (A couple 40" long and a couple 60" long). We use a can of spray paint and mark 5-6 trunks at a time and then have at it. Works really nice......

WoodButcher

 

[carbon neutral]

Of the two tools that I set up links to I like the spray paint one better. You pick up one tool make all your marks then pick up the other tool, the one that can take your leg off and operate that. The idea being when you are using the chainsaw your eyes are are fixed on where the chain is and not where the end of the measuring stick is. The only difference I see between the spray can mounted to a roller and the way you guys are making your spray can marks is speed and not having to bend over as often.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

I should use a measuring stick and my paintball gun. Already use it for marking trees on occasion- paint is biodegradable.

 

[pinewoodburner]

Here are links to two products offered by baileys. The first is very similar to what you described. I like the Mingo because I think it would be very fast.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=47150&catID=14
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=265&catID;=

Northern also sells what you described with the 3 sticks at 16", 18" and 20" for less than $10.

 

[kevin j]

I cut mostly 16 inch. I just put a mark on the bar 16 inches from the tip and use that.
Only need to use it a few times for calibrating my eyeballs, and that is only if have not cut for a while.
Then it's pretty easy to cut by eyeball consistently 15 to 16 inches.

Cutting longer lengthes consistently accurate may be harder though, I can't comment.

k

 

[jebatty]

I also have a mark on the bar, but the wire guide I made works better; also very similar to the Mingo at Northern Tool. Mine was "free." As mentioned, I stack the wood in my woodshed, and the more even the bucking, the more easy it stacks straight.

 

[lobsta1]

All you guys looking to get the perfect 16", 18" or whatever length, must have the straightest trees around. I get stuck with all the gnarly ones. I get it dropped off for free, so I am definitely not complaining. I do find that my eye is way off when I get to the 3' plus diameter logs. I seem to end up cutting either at 12" or 21" instead of the preferred 16".
Al

 

[BJ64]

All you guys looking to get the perfect 16", 18" or whatever length, must have the straightest trees around. I get stuck with all the gnarly ones.

I can relate to that. I only cut down stuff because there is plenty of it to be cleaned up. In my observation straight trees rarely fall. I get the ones with 29 limbs produrding from any 6 foot section. Oh and all of those knots, I have to be careful because those chunks seem to explode in a wood splitter. I'm with lobsta1, every good run ends with some odd ball size piece. Oh well it all burns.

 

[Beanscoot]

I have a piece of 2x2 painted white that's the right length for my stove, and use that as a gauge and a stick or saw tool to scratch the trunk at the length. An improvement would be to attach a piece of metal to each end so it could scratch the log all at one go.

 

[TMonter]

1/4 thick x 3/4 wide steel flat bar here cut to 16" long and painted white. Then I use a lumber crayon to mark logs. Works great.

 

[Darl Bundren]

I use a measuring stick but mark with my pruning saw. One pull usually does it, and the marking goes quickly.

 

[Backroads]

1/4 thick x 3/4 wide steel flat bar here cut to 16" long and painted white. Then I use a lumber crayon to mark logs. Works great.

I too used a lumber crayon and a stick for several years and agree it works good as long as you pick a color you can see easily.

 

[Hogwildz]

Bar is 18", I just use the bar and eye up 2" deduction. After a while, I think most will find the eye comes damn close, with a few checks along the way to " recalibrate" as previously stated.