[Build Log] Napoleon 1402 + liner install + sheet metal damper + crown repair

[bfedorov91]

I was going to makes a little build log with pictures and update as I go. This is my first wood burning stove/insert so any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Already made my first mistake and ordered a 6 inch liner for a ~6.5 x 11 opening. Got a 5.5 on the way. It is a pretty clean chimney. Not a ton of extra mortar overhanging and it is a straight run. I'll ovalize if needed.

The house was built in 1977 and we only used the fireplace no more than 10 times. Some of the mortar was cracking and air was getting inside. I removed any loose and/or cracked mortar and repaired with high temp mortar.

I have a sawzall ready to go. The previous owners barely used the fireplace. There is a little buildup by the damper and very little at the top. I have a brush and cleaning rods on the way and will scrub the above the damper with a wire brush.

I ordered some CrownCoat. I'm not sure, but it looks like the lip is brick?? Then it has a mortar run off on top? Not sure the best way to repair it. If I need an entire cement crown, I might have to wait till the spring and I would try to get away with sealing it for this winter. It depends on the weather.

I received the insert today. It has a dent on the back so I am not sure about asking for a new one. It doesn't look like much, but that is pretty thick steel. Is there anything behind that? It looks there should be a gap before the fire box correct?

Question about the bricks.. Why is there a gap in the manual between I and J? I though it was for a hole to a sweep out or something but the bottom of the firebox is completely flat. All the old wood stays on the bricks and you have to clean it out from there? I only received 30 bricks and it shows 31 if you include I and J.

 

[bholler]

Already made my first mistake and ordered a 6 inch liner for a ~6.5 x 11 opening. Got a 5.5 on the way. It is a pretty clean chimney. Not a ton of extra mortar overhanging and it is a straight run. I'll ovalize if needed.

Did napolean ok a 5.5? You absolutely cant ovalize a 5.5 though it reduces the volume even more on an already undersized liner.

The previous owners barely used the fireplace. There is a little buildup by the damper and very little at the top. I have a brush and cleaning rods on the way and will scrub the above the damper with a wire brush.

Yeah that smoke chamber is pretty dirty make sure you clean it well and then clean the smoke shelf off well also

I ordered some CrownCoat. I'm not sure, but it looks like the lip is brick?? Then it has a mortar run off on top? Not sure the best way to repair it. If I need an entire cement crown, I might have to wait till the spring and I would try to get away with sealing it for this winter. It depends on the weather.

That needs allot more than crown coat i would seal any cracks wit hsilicone for the winter and then repair the masonry and pour a crown in the spring.

I received the insert today. It has a dent on the back so I am not sure about asking for a new one. It doesn't look like much, but that is pretty thick steel. Is there anything behind that? It looks there should be a gap before the fire box correct?

I dont think that will be an issue at all but it doesn't hurt to send some pics and see what they say.

 

[bfedorov91]

Did napolean ok a 5.5? You absolutely cant ovalize a 5.5 though it reduces the volume even more on an already undersized liner.

Just called Napolean. They said you can go up or down a size and be good. Also must take into consideration location. Our winters are fairly mild compared to northern states (located in Delaware). It is only a 22 foot run too. I also bought the low clearance flue connector for it. Its basically an angled box that sits on top of the exhaust. It may slightly reduce draft since the liner connects to the box and not directly to the stove output.

I'm just worried about the fire box welds. How can I tell they are still intact? Is it worth burning my house down? It is some heavy steel so it took a huge amount of force to dent.

What is a good thickness for a crown? I assume I can just go right on top of the brick since it technically already has an overhang?

Would it be worth filling the gaps around the rear housing that the fans blow into.. or at least lay down a piece of Roxul under it? Kind of odd there isn't any type of fins for the air to blow through. Seems pretty inefficient to blow air over a flat surface. I might have a shop make two inserts with fins to drop down there to increase efficiency. What do you think?

 

[MaintenanceMan]

The gap between the firebricks is most likely for an ash shoot to an optional ash pan on certain models. Without an ash shoot you'll just need a full brick there instead.

 

[bholler]

Also must take into consideration location. Our winters are fairly mild compared to northern states (located in Delaware). It is only a 22 foot run too. I also bought the low clearance flue connector for it. Its basically an angled box that sits on top of the exhaust. It may slightly reduce draft since the liner connects to the box and not directly to the stove output.

The less extreme temps will not increase draft if anything it will reduce it. and then an offest box as well will reduce it even more. Luckily the 22 feet will help you out to regain some of that lost draft. If they said it was ok then 5.5 should work but not ovalized.

I'm just worried about the fire box welds. How can I tell they are still intact? Is it worth burning my house down? It is some heavy steel so it took a huge amount of force to dent.

I am all but positive that did nothing to the firebox but like i said send them pics and ask them

What is a good thickness for a crown? I assume I can just go right on top of the brick since it technically already has an overhang?

We do 3" to 4" and if i was doing it on that chimney i would either overhang the crown past those brick or take the top 2 courses off and then overhang

 

[bfedorov91]

They're sending me another one. It does bother me in the back of my head.. this thing could burn 800-900 degrees and you leave it burning while sleeping. If air can get it, fire can get out. Who knows what kind of stress it placed on the welds. It took a massive amount of force to put a dent in steel that thick. I am also wondering if it created those large gaps at the bottom of the unit.

 

[bholler]

It took a massive amount of force to put a dent in steel that thick.

how thick is it most insert shells are pretty thin

 

[bfedorov91]

how thick is it most insert shells are pretty thin

~2.5mm. It looks way worse in person.

Some of the bricks broke too. I assume they were in place from the manufacture but they arrived all over the inside of the box. I also ordered the matching low clearance connector which was on top of the pallet. Of course they top loaded it when it said "do not top load." Pretty much destroyed the box and the connector lets light at the top.

 

[bholler]

Yeah shipping comapnies can be pretty hard on them sounds like they screwed yours up. But it does not take much force to dent the back of an insert believe me i have dented a few lol

 

[bfedorov91]

We do 3" to 4" and if i was doing it on that chimney i would either overhang the crown past those brick or take the top 2 courses off and then overhang

Do you think it will be a flat surface under the two layers of brick? Or something like this https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/new-chimney-crown-my-experience.53050/

Think I may tackle it now. Waiting on my chimney brush. Seems pretty straight forward. Frame out a box and pour? One layer of rebar ok?

 

[bholler]

Do you think it will be a flat surface under the two layers of brick? Or something like this https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/new-chimney-crown-my-experience.53050/
Think I may tackle it now. Waiting on my chimney brush. Seems pretty straight forward. Frame out a box and pour? One layer of rebar ok?

It will not be flat i am sure. We also never use rebar we use fiber reinforced concrete

 

[bfedorov91]

It will not be flat i am sure. We also never use rebar we use fiber reinforced concrete

If it is hollow around the flue, what material should I lay down as a base for the concrete? Its hard to find info on this. I see in some pictures people use wire mesh or sheet metal?

 

[bholler]

If it is hollow around the flue, what material should I lay down as a base for the concrete? Its hard to find info on this. I see in some pictures people use wire mesh or sheet metal?

We have used sheet metal on some backer board on others It really depends allot on how large the space is you are covering. I don't know about your area but here it is uncommon for it to be open usually it has been back filled with rubble

 

[bfedorov91]

Received my replacement today. Got the chimney cleaned out pretty good. There was a ton of debris behind the damper (the shelf?). The brush didn't do much. There isn't really a build of creosote anywhere. Its more of a black staining of the brick.

I am starting to wonder if they're going to try to make me pay for the replacement since I signed for it (which was dumb). You know how these freight shippers are.. they lie, say anything, rush you to get you to sign.

I am going to install the liner this weekend.