Bypass damper, overnight burn, creosote?

[TonyP]

Does running a VC resolute 2 (or the likes) through the bypass damper overnight create more creosote than if run with the damper open? Also, if I run through the bypass damper overnight, should I run it really hot the next morning to burn off any creosote?

 

[DougA]

No. With the bypass open, all you are doing is putting heat outside instead of inside the house. If you are using dry wood and burning at 350 or more on the stove top, creosote should not be a problem. Check your chimney a few times per winter to verify. Your damper on the VC should be closed once the fire is burning well.

 

[TonyP]

No. With the bypass open, all you are doing is putting heat outside instead of inside the house. If you are using dry wood and burning at 350 or more on the stove top, creosote should not be a problem. Check your chimney a few times per winter to verify. Your damper on the VC should be closed once the fire is burning well.

Thanks.

 

[dsb134]

I run mine with the damper closed overnight, it significantly increases the burn time on a full load. I have never had problems with significant creosote and the stove top temperature is usually between 400-550 with the damper closed. I believe the manual recommends running in updraft for an hour or so a day when burning constantly. I try and avoid letting the fire burn itself out in cross draft because it seems to smolder heavily at the end of the burn, not sure if other people have the same problem?

 

[TonyP]

I run mine with the damper closed overnight, it significantly increases the burn time on a full load. I have never had problems with significant creosote and the stove top temperature is usually between 400-550 with the damper closed. I believe the manual recommends running in updraft for an hour or so a day when burning constantly. I try and avoid letting the fire burn itself out in cross draft because it seems to smolder heavily at the end of the burn, not sure if other people have the same problem?

Thank you.

Do you have firebricks in yours to increase thermal mass? I read somewhere that someone put firebricks in between the fins on the bottom of the Resolute to increase thermal mass. One of my issues with the 1.1 cubic foot stove is that it burns out within a few hours, and if it's around 30 out, the room adjacent to the one with the stove gets cold quick. (It'll drop over 10 degrees within a few hours). It's very clear my old stove doesn't insulate as well as the new ones.

 

[dsb134]

I personally don't use any firebricks, just the recommended layer of ash insulation on the bottom. If I load it up fully, close the damper and turn the air down there will still be enough heat the next morning to add a few splits. I should also mention that this year I am burning hardwood with serious BTU's so that is probably helping too.

 

[TonyP]

I personally don't use any firebricks, just the recommended layer of ash insulation on the bottom. If I load it up fully, close the damper and turn the air down there will still be enough heat the next morning to add a few splits. I should also mention that this year I am burning hardwood with serious BTU's so that is probably helping too.

I do the same thing. I always have coals the next morning; that's never the problem. The issue is how much heat it emanates after the flames have gone out. Maybe I should build up a large coal bed, in that, rake them forward and don't clean it out as much.

 

[DougA]

My VC Resolute was 2.3 cu ft I'm pretty sure. 1.1 does not sound right at all. We may be talking completely different models though. I sold mine so no longer have the original manual with the specs. I know mine was 34,000 btu.
Firebricks will have zero effect on your mass and only serve to give you less room for wood.
Raking coals forward will have little effect. The air inlet is at the side and back, not in the front like many other stoves. Once again, maybe we are talking different models.

 

[TonyP]

My VC Resolute was 2.3 cu ft I'm pretty sure. 1.1 does not sound right at all. We may be talking completely different models though. I sold mine so no longer have the original manual with the specs. I know mine was 34,000 btu.
Firebricks will have zero effect on your mass and only serve to give you less room for wood.
Raking coals forward will have little effect. The air inlet is at the side and back, not in the front like many other stoves. Once again, maybe we are talking different models.

Did you have the model with 2 front doors, or just one that dropped down?

Thanks for the advice on firebricks and coal raking, by the way.

 

[vasten]

This may help, it is the operation manual that you would have received if you had bought the stove new. The one nice thing about these stoves is that no matter what model you have the operation instructions are all identical.

I cant find the fire box dimensions for the resolute but the new ones seem to range from 1.4-1.7, now they could have shrunk that from the original one in the 70-80's

https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/vermont-castings-older-stove-models/

 

[DougA]

Did you have the model with 2 front doors, or just one that dropped down?

Mine was 2 front doors with metal plates instead of glass.

 

[TonyP]

Mine was 2 front doors with metal plates instead of glass.

Mine has one drop down front door, which makes it the resolute 2. Yours was the resolute 3. They have have had the same firebox size; not sure.