CAD strikes again

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pyroholic

Member
Feb 17, 2013
219
Mid-Michigan
Just won an auction for an 026 pro in nice shape. $255. Not a steal, but seems about average. Did I need it? NO. Can i afford it? NOT REALLY, BUT DON'T TELL MY CREDIT CARD. That makes it 7 stihls, 6 that run and cut.

Wonder how many saws i can take to the woods with me at a time?

Pics when it gets here.
 
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join the club ;lol
 
Nice - looks like you have a real nice range of sizes know - how do you like that 038mag?

Cheers!
 
Love it. Dual port muffler with mod, 8 pin rim, 20" bar, new RS full chisel = amazing.

Pulled the 28" with full comp rs thru 28" mulberry with authority, with the 7 pin, and with an untouched single port.

Just got all the rubber fuel parts (fuel line, impulse, intake boot, filter, impulse elbow) today along with a NOS tillotson hk42b carb. That will complete it's journey to better than new. Can't wait to get it into the woods.
 
[Hearth.com] CAD strikes again
[Hearth.com] CAD strikes again [Hearth.com] CAD strikes again
Pretty cool to find the NOS carb. In box, in the bag, with west Germany written all over it. Got a tech tach for an accurate tune after everything.
 

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Was looking for the rebuild kit, but could only find gasket and diaphragm kits. Found that carb for $50 and figured that was easiest.

saw was shutting off when letting off the trigger abruptly following a good cut. Couldn't find any air leaks, but got the rubber bits since I was in there anyway.

Saw was tuned right, started and cut awesome, any wouldn't cut off if I gave it one quick throttle blip following the cut. Really like this saw and want it perfect for winter. Hopefully not chasing my tail here, but I'm learning on the fly.

any technical advice is appreciated.
 
Yah, welcome to the club. I just bought an 036 the other day. Like I need another 60cc saw, but... I have CAD bad again. Gott'a get my fix. It is all because I found a 50cc J-red 535 for $20. Now I am going for bigger game and evidently I subconsciously had a 9 saw plan.

CAD is good for any pyromaniac to sate his or her need for cutting up stuff to burn though.
 
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I would rather build the Carb than pay $50 for a new one. There is nothing to them?
 
I would rather build the Carb than pay $50 for a new one. There is nothing to them?
That's a NOS Tillotson. I'd give twice that for one if I had a use for it. Service replacements are generally Zamas and while they work, they sometimes don't perform as well as the originals.
 
Was looking for the rebuild kit, but could only find gasket and diaphragm kits. Found that carb for $50 and figured that was easiest.

saw was shutting off when letting off the trigger abruptly following a good cut. Couldn't find any air leaks, but got the rubber bits since I was in there anyway.

Saw was tuned right, started and cut awesome, any wouldn't cut off if I gave it one quick throttle blip following the cut. Really like this saw and want it perfect for winter. Hopefully not chasing my tail here, but I'm learning on the fly.

any technical advice is appreciated.

Sounds like the low end is running pretty fat. Lean it out 1/8 of a turn and see what you've got. They can do that if the LA is not holding the throttle plate open enough either. Should be idling between 2700 to 3000 rpm or so.
 
That's a NOS Tillotson. I'd give twice that for one if I had a use for it. Service replacements are generally Zamas and while they work, they sometimes don't perform as well as the originals.
Ahhh. I see I thought he bought it instead of rebuilding g it. That made no sense to me, just saying.
 
Sounds like the low end is running pretty fat. Lean it out 1/8 of a turn and see what you've got. They can do that if the LA is not holding the throttle plate open enough either. Should be idling between 2700 to 3000 rpm or so.

The saw will quit stalling with the LA up, but it has to be up close to 3000rpm which spins the chain. It runs and starts good in every other way. Might it just need a clutch that disengages at higher rpm?

I've noticed that the little notch in the throttle plate of the old one is not perfectly round and has black deposits around that spot. The new one has a nice round half circle cut where the old one has a jagged spot around the opening.

For $50 I couldn't go wrong. Definitely eliminates a good sized variable. The saw has been tuned and retuned and always ended up close to the same turns out each time. Tuned by two different people with the same results (I was one).

Nothing wrong with having a few extra parts around for a saw that is getting hard to find parts for that I plan to keep awhile. (Read: forever)
 
Walbro WT-194-1 is the best carb for any of the 026/260 line saws. That is all I ran in mine (over a half dozen, early to late models). Some came with a fixed H jet carbs (the worst). The WT-22 was the second best of the 026 carbs (smaller bore than the WT-194).

There is a new one on Ebay now for $56 shipped.
 
By the way, if you wanna boost a tired 026 saw, pop in a new set of Caber piston rings. $10 from a guy on Ebay in Greece. I bought two sets for my once much larger 026 collection and they really wake up a saw that is not tuning right or has a lot of hours on it. The old Stihl rings seem to get soft in time.

I also got a new OEM Mahle 260 engine from a Stihl mechanic up in WA state and put it into a new 026 that I bought with a scored engine (straight gassed it after only 5 tanks, I paid $75 for it). No mods needed, a slightly larger bore than the 026, runs great. I still have that 0260 hybrid saw. There was a guy selling a pile of new OEM 260 P&C for $100 on AS a few years ago. Dunno if he has any left.
 
New clutch springs are cheap. ;)
Are clutch springs available in different tensions for the same saw.

What RPM should the chain engage?

This one engages right about 3K. I'm going to put all the new bits in today, tune with the new tech tach, and we'll see what happens with some good numbers from a usable tach.
 
They get weak over time from heat. That saw should start to engage the clutch around 36-3800 rpm.
 
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