Hello, we heat with an Englander 25 PDVC, all and all it has been a good stove. Now lower auger motor is bad, but the actual gearbox is fine. I was wondering if it is possible to get just the motor?? Any help would be apprerciated.
can a auger motor be rebuilt??
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Not positive but I would think so. I have a gas furnace motor rewound from a local motor vendor a while back and it works fine. If they could not re-wind it, then getting the motor specs might be an option and they could just get you a new one.
gooddave said:
Just buy a new heavier duty motor & be done with it. Lots of good info in this thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/34017/
Tom in Oh
Great info, I am still wondering if just the magnetic drive motors could be bought and replaced, because I like many others took my gearbox apart and regreased it and it all works great, but no go with the motor.
gooddave said:
I`ve just run across a bad one (neighbor has an Englander) after only 2 tons of pellet use that was running irratically. After close inspection (disassembly) it appears it was the gearing that was making the bottom auger motor cycle on/off due to overheating. New replacement works fine.
I suppose you could make a good one from one with a bad motor or one with bad gears, depending on what the trouble was but you need a bad one of either to start with. For those who have had multiple bad ones it could make sense.
For the cost of a new Gleason Avery unit ($79-$89?) is it worth it ?
I agree, I just was not sure if maybe a motor alone could be picked up for 20 or 30 bucks. If so it would be woth trying. If you knew where to find them.
The Gleason-Avery mention in that other thread is a nice unit, and for the price mention (approx. $79), I wouldn't even mess with rebuilding. Just keep the old one for parts.
I paid $75 for a used auger motor for my Astoria, so $79 for a new one is great.
I paid $75 for a used auger motor for my Astoria, so $79 for a new one is great.
gooddave said:
just get new bushings for it...they are geared low as you know and a huge amount of pressure is put on the bushings so that even a small bit of wear can make for a noisy auger. Getting the bushings may be a trick and you might have to use your thinking cap for substitutes,although I remember either last year or the year before ,finding the bushings on the internet that would do the job...don't ask me where...see a bearing guy.
When i was in the middle of my motor dilema (thats my post mentioned above) i did try to find just a frame and couldnt find one anywhere.
Granger had some that were really close but were going to require some machining to mate it to the gear box.
My Gleason Avery is still trouble free.
Granger had some that were really close but were going to require some machining to mate it to the gear box.
My Gleason Avery is still trouble free.
Hello all and thanks for all the help, I am just now getting around to ordering my new auger motor. I think I will go with the Gleason Avery, ( I am a serious procrastinator, and its just now starting to get good and cold in central Ohio) as it seems to be a little better in a few areas. I was just on their site and they give options of 1.2 to 6 rpms, I believe I need the 1.2 rpm but just wanted to get some input from some people that know a lot more than me!! Thanks Again
gooddave said:
Yes, the 1.2 rpm motor is fine...the GA seem to be good units, and the price is right.
Another thumbs up for the GA unit.
I followed the links on the linked thread and ordered mine. $90 bucks with shipping, had it in 5 days. Dealer wanted $150 for a replacement and it would take a week!
Another small added bonus is that the stock motor is 1rpm, the new motor is 1.2 rpm and the stove burns a little better on low setting.
I followed the links on the linked thread and ordered mine. $90 bucks with shipping, had it in 5 days. Dealer wanted $150 for a replacement and it would take a week!
Another small added bonus is that the stock motor is 1rpm, the new motor is 1.2 rpm and the stove burns a little better on low setting.
Me checking in again, GA still running just fine.
btw seige, dont think i mentioned this before but i am one town over from you.
pete, its not the bushings/bearings in most cases. its failed coating on the windings that shorts it out.
btw seige, dont think i mentioned this before but i am one town over from you.
pete, its not the bushings/bearings in most cases. its failed coating on the windings that shorts it out.
Sorry it took awhile to reply we run a salt business here in heath ohio, and once the weather changes it gets a little busy!! Anyways I got my GA motor and installed it seems to be great much beefier build, and quieter smooth operation not so much grinding or clunking!! Thanks for all the advice and I will probably go ahead and order the other ga motor to replace my second stock motor. Have a great new years!!
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