Can I get away with this on a Blaze King?

[Comanche79p]

Double wall up 2' from the stove top, 90 degree then 3' into class a "T" and up an insulated chase 14'?

Cabin a 9200 feet MSL.

This would be for either a Princess or King-undecided.

Trying to make a top vent Blaze King work, if not will have to go rear vent.

I understand the 90's probably hurt my draft. I saw that Blaze King notes 24" minimum but assume that might mean at lower altitudes.

Thanks for any direction you might have.

 

[Highbeam]

The high altitude hurts you. You need more draft for most any stove.

 

[Rossco]

2 x 45*s will help but with a reduction of Stove vertical.

Should't have to many problem's running it hot all the time with some extra chimney.

 

[jeff_t]

My guess is that you will have issues getting the stove to perform as it should. Blaze Kings seem to be more draft sensitive than most, I think due to low flue temps and low volumes of air moving thru the stove.

 

[mellow]

I think due to low flue temps

Been meaning to ask, what flu temps do you see with the cat active at around 1200-1500?

 

[Highbeam]

Been meaning to ask, what flu temps do you see with the cat active at around 1200-1500?

I have a probe meter and the flue temps are always steady at 400 at lower stove top temps, aka cruise. Cat temps don't really seem to matter as long as it is active.

 

[mellow]

I see the "lower flue temps" thrown out with cat stoves, I was just surprised to see mine hovering at 400-450 with the cat at around 1200, just was curious if the BK was in the same ballpark.

Still seems high in my mind, I guess compared to tube stoves which are in the 600 range it is lower.

 

[jeff_t]

I don't have a probe, but I can hold my hand on the double wall pipe, indefinitely most of the time. When it's cranked, I can still do it briefly.

Cat temps don't seem to matter that much. It's more about thermostat settings and how hard the fire is burning. The other night I was about four hours into a fresh load, the cat probe was almost to the last tick, stove top was at 650, and I could still hold my hand on the pipe. The firebox wasn't dark, as there was some wood glowing, but there was no flame at all.

The flapper was closed all the way, so the only air getting in was thru a hole about the size of a dime. This is why draft is so important. If you can't pull enough air thru at low settings like that, that means the thermostat must be open further to keep it burning. Which means that the stove burns hotter as the coil tries to maintain that setting, and you blow thru a load of wood three times faster than you should.

I know, that goes against what I've said before about the thermostat not doing much. I still don't see mine changing much at all, probably because I burn either at the low end or the high end, and apparently I have a good setup that allows me to use the stove as it was meant to be used.

 

[Highbeam]

The flapper was closed all the way, so the only air getting in was thru a hole about the size of a dime. This is why draft is so important. If you can't pull enough air thru at low settings like that, that means the thermostat must be open further to keep it burning. Which means that the stove burns hotter as the coil tries to maintain that setting, and you blow thru a load of wood three times faster than you should.

I don't see it like that. Whether your strong draft is pulling X amount of air through the flapper hole or whether my weak draft requires that the stat open a crack to pull X amount of air, the firebox will still see X amount of air and burn the wood at the same rate. I don't think the stove was designed to run with the stat shut, it was designed to operate in the range that allows the stat flapper to stay open and operate as a valve.

The trouble comes when your draft is so weak that smoke doesn't want to rise up through the cat at low settings.

 

[Badger]

I don't see it like that. Whether your strong draft is pulling X amount of air through the flapper hole or whether my weak draft requires that the stat open a crack to pull X amount of air, the firebox will still see X amount of air and burn the wood at the same rate. I don't think the stove was designed to run with the stat shut, it was designed to operate in the range that allows the stat flapper to stay open and operate as a valve.

The trouble comes when your draft is so weak that smoke doesn't want to rise up through the cat at low settings.

I think you are right Highbeam. I have about the same set up, but 18' of flue pipe and I'm at 700' altitude. I can get the stove going fine and even run down to 1.75...

The problem is during the shoulder season 1.75 puts off way to much heat. If I want to run at 1.5 I need to constantly monitor and turn it up just before she stalls.

Also, my princess seems to smoke longer than other people's. I'm not sure, but I think more draft would help me out. I don't think it can pull enough air through the small hole to react with the smoke at the cat....

I think you are asking for trouble with that set up. Any way you can do 20' of chimney?

 

[Comanche79p]

I think you are right Highbeam. I have about the same set up, but 18' of flue pipe and I'm at 700' altitude. I can get the stove going fine and even run down to 1.75...

The problem is during the shoulder season 1.75 puts off way to much heat. If I want to run at 1.5 I need to constantly monitor and turn it up just before she stalls.

Also, my princess seems to smoke longer than other people's. I'm not sure, but I think more draft would help me out. I don't think it can pull enough air through the small hole to react with the smoke at the cat....

I think you are asking for trouble with that set up. Any way you can do 20' of chimney?

I don't think I can make 20' work with my set-up. Too much hanging out of the chase and no place to secure the pipe.

Thanks for the replies!