The side ones are fine, the back one broke into a few pieces, it's 25 yrs old
Can i run the stove with just the side ones on and not have the back one in place?
Can i run the stove with just the side ones on and not have the back one in place?Can I run a Whitfield Advantage ii without the back fire brick?
- Thread starter clincoln007
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Edward Hughes
Member
You may want to try the search forum, until some one with one of those stoves, with more helpThe side ones are fine, the back one broke into a few pieces, it's 25 yrs old
for the fire bricks.
Good Luck.
Yea I tried, it's an old one. The firebricks on the side cover the ash chambers, those need to be on the one on the back goes flat agains the wall of the stove so I'm not sure. I don't want to try it and burn down the house! Hopefully someone knows
! Hopefully someone knows
Edward Hughes
Member
After work and dinner you will get some helpYea I tried, it's an old one. The firebricks on the side cover the ash chambers, those need to be on the one on the back goes flat agains the wall of the stove so I'm not sure. I don't want to try it and burn down the house
Bioburner
Moderator
I am afraid that the stove will get pretty toasty and the feed hopper is pretty close and may get the fuel to warm and well, not good. Direct flame on the metal would probably warp it too.
I know its not what you want to hear with a bit of cold weather coming back into the forecast
I know its not what you want to hear with a bit of cold weather coming back into the forecast
Most stoves can run on a low setting without the fireboard. The stove won't run as efficiently as the heat isn't reflected and just hits the metal and goes out the exhaust. You don't want to run it to hot as you might warp the back wall.Yea I tried, it's an old one. The firebricks on the side cover the ash chambers, those need to be on the one on the back goes flat agains the wall of the stove so I'm not sure. I don't want to try it and burn down the house
Save those pieces and make a mold and buy some castable refractory cement and make your own. ACE hardware online carries the stuff and you can get it shipped for free to a ACE store near you as the buckets are heavy. You have to buy 2 buckets but I know on my stove that was enough for 4 boards, so I've shared it over the years. That board made from the cement will never wear out unless you take a jack hammer to it.
Bioburner
Moderator
Thanks guys, I'm going to either A) Try to stove cement it back together again or B) try the sheet metal trick I saw on hear where the guys traced the shpe on the sheet metal cut it out and then glued the firebrick to that......one way or the other the stove will be running tonight
Bioburner
Moderator
Or the MN governor trying to give a speech
Well, you'd have to drop it like the Falcons dropped the Packers.
DneprDave
Minister of Fire
Here is a place that sells a replacement.
http://woodheatstoves.com/whitfield...-waterford-fireback-p-1614.html?cPath=499_501
http://woodheatstoves.com/whitfield...-waterford-fireback-p-1614.html?cPath=499_501
Bioburner
Moderator
Makes the purchase of a bucket or bag of castable very cheap. I can't remember how long one has to let the stuff cure but a sure is worth a try.
I put the fire brick back in and glued the crap out of it with stove cement, it looks like one of my kids 4th grade art projects but hopefully it works, Im letong it set for about another half hour then im going to fire it up I'll let you know how it works....thanks again for all the help
I'll let you know how it works....thanks again for all the helpSimilar threads
