With colder weather coming in sooner or later, down to what temps can I still run it (Canola Oil) in the chainsaws?
zap
zap
zapny said:With colder weather coming in sooner or later, down to what temps can I still run it (Canola Oil) in the chainsaws?
zap
Thistle said:zapny said:With colder weather coming in sooner or later, down to what temps can I still run it (Canola Oil) in the chainsaws?
zap
Last February I had about a quart of leftover cheap olive oil that I used one week when it got below 25 or so.Soon afterwards switched to used motor oil I filter myself.Use that year round now when its above 25,even in summer.Always had trouble with the regular thick bar oil flowing in colder temps.Gonna get a couple gallons of generic canola soon,thats around $10 now.
MasterMech said:Just a stupid question but why Canola oil? Cheap? Enviromental reasons?
Zap I have used Stihl's Arctic oil (Blue Jug) but once the saw is warmed up I noticed regular bar oil flows just fine. Trouble is getting it to flow out of the bottle at 10 degrees.
zapny said:MasterMech said:Just a stupid question but why Canola oil? Cheap? Enviromental reasons?
Zap I have used Stihl's Arctic oil (Blue Jug) but once the saw is warmed up I noticed regular bar oil flows just fine. Trouble is getting it to flow out of the bottle at 10 degrees.
1.Safer for me
2.Environmental
3. Less Expensive
When I started milling the change was made to Canola Oil.
zap
smokinjay said:zapny said:MasterMech said:Just a stupid question but why Canola oil? Cheap? Enviromental reasons?
Zap I have used Stihl's Arctic oil (Blue Jug) but once the saw is warmed up I noticed regular bar oil flows just fine. Trouble is getting it to flow out of the bottle at 10 degrees.
1.Safer for me
2.Environmental
3. Less Expensive
When I started milling the change was made to Canola Oil.
zap
4. No staining of wood.
5. flows better in cold temps.
6. Better than stihl eco blend doesnt gel.
7. Much easier to keep saw clean!
8. Easy to tell if your push the saw to hard. (smells like french frys)
zapny said:smokinjay said:zapny said:MasterMech said:Just a stupid question but why Canola oil? Cheap? Enviromental reasons?
Zap I have used Stihl's Arctic oil (Blue Jug) but once the saw is warmed up I noticed regular bar oil flows just fine. Trouble is getting it to flow out of the bottle at 10 degrees.
1.Safer for me
2.Environmental
3. Less Expensive
When I started milling the change was made to Canola Oil.
zap
4. No staining of wood.
5. flows better in cold temps.
6. Better than stihl eco blend doesnt gel.
7. Much easier to keep saw clean!
8. Easy to tell if your push the saw to hard. (smells like french frys)
9. You can fry up a TURKEY!
zap
That is one of the most heavily debated controversies regarding chainsaws and not a single person has ever been able show a shred of evidence that running used motor oil is a bad thing. The ONLY argument that has any ground to stand on is the fact that it is messy; it will turn your saw and clothes black. Without causing too much of a thread-jack, do you have any new evidence to add to this controversy?MasterMech said:Thistle said:zapny said:With colder weather coming in sooner or later, down to what temps can I still run it (Canola Oil) in the chainsaws?
zap
Last February I had about a quart of leftover cheap olive oil that I used one week when it got below 25 or so.Soon afterwards switched to used motor oil I filter myself.Use that year round now when its above 25,even in summer.Always had trouble with the regular thick bar oil flowing in colder temps.Gonna get a couple gallons of generic canola soon,thats around $10 now.
:bug: Not really a recomended or enviromentally sound practice. :zip:
CountryBoy19 said:That is one of the most heavily debated controversies regarding chainsaws and not a single person has ever been able show a shred of evidence that running used motor oil is a bad thing. The ONLY argument that has any ground to stand on is the fact that it is messy; it will turn your saw and clothes black. Without causing too much of a thread-jack, do you have any new evidence to add to this controversy?MasterMech said:Thistle said:zapny said:With colder weather coming in sooner or later, down to what temps can I still run it (Canola Oil) in the chainsaws?
zap
Last February I had about a quart of leftover cheap olive oil that I used one week when it got below 25 or so.Soon afterwards switched to used motor oil I filter myself.Use that year round now when its above 25,even in summer.Always had trouble with the regular thick bar oil flowing in colder temps.Gonna get a couple gallons of generic canola soon,thats around $10 now.
:bug: Not really a recomended or enviromentally sound practice. :zip:
smokinjay said:That debate will go on forever! Hard to argue Veggie Oil! ;-)
CountryBoy19 said:smokinjay said:That debate will go on forever! Hard to argue Veggie Oil! ;-)
Yup, pretty easy to settle the argument between used motor oil and veg oil in milling lumber... unless you like the character of the black oil stains from the used motor oil, veg oil is your friend.
CountryBoy19 said:That is one of the most heavily debated controversies regarding chainsaws and not a single person has ever been able show a shred of evidence that running used motor oil is a bad thing. The ONLY argument that has any ground to stand on is the fact that it is messy; it will turn your saw and clothes black. Without causing too much of a thread-jack, do you have any new evidence to add to this controversy?MasterMech said:Thistle said:zapny said:With colder weather coming in sooner or later, down to what temps can I still run it (Canola Oil) in the chainsaws?
zap
Last February I had about a quart of leftover cheap olive oil that I used one week when it got below 25 or so.Soon afterwards switched to used motor oil I filter myself.Use that year round now when its above 25,even in summer.Always had trouble with the regular thick bar oil flowing in colder temps.Gonna get a couple gallons of generic canola soon,thats around $10 now.
:bug: Not really a recomended or enviromentally sound practice. :zip:
There is a very big difference between the lubrication in your engine and the lubrication of a saw chain.MasterMech said:Just seems to me that we change our engine oil because it has lost it's ability to lubricate well (not totally I understand, it a "one last time" kind of application.) and has become saturated with contaminates. Filter the oil, ok that removes the solids but I highly doubt we are using a filter effective enough to remove the ultra-fine particles of soot (which is why the oil is black, especially from a diesel)
IMHO, negligible, and is only a valid concern if there is evidence to back it up that those contaminants actually cause damage when used in a saw.MasterMech said:and what about the chemical contaminates in the used oil? Usually corrosive, and carcinogenic to boot.
Your saw naturally disperses the oil very thinly over a large area. I can several truck-loads of firewood on a quart of oil. Dispersed over the area that all that wood comes from the environmental impact is very, very low. Mother nature has shown us time and time again that she is very efficient at cleaning up chemical waste left by mankind. Look at the historic oil spills and how people predicted that it would be decades before the environment effectively recovered from the impacts of the spill. And look how fast mother nature actually recovered. She recovers much faster than many would allow you to believe, especially when the spill is effectively dispersed. That is much different than dumping a quart of oil on the ground, but I will play along. Even if it wasn't any different, it would be a moot point if you are using conventional B&C oil. That is oil too, it just has a tack additive in it. So you are still dumping oil. The only way to make this an effective argument (disregarding oil dispersion mentioned above) is if you are going to be using canola oil or eco-friendly oils which can still be disruptive to the environment.MasterMech said:Also it kinda seems that running a quart of used oil through the saw and dumping it on the ground near the log are kinda the same thing? Nobody seems to care if you run used oil in your saw but they damn sure get agitated if they see you dumping it on the ground.
Like I said, that is the only valid point that has real evidence to back it up and any average joe can test this argument himself to see.MasterMech said:The mess alone would be reason enough for me not to run used oil. I keep my equipment way too clean for that.
And how is used motor oil disposed of properly? Do you know?MasterMech said:It just doesn't make sense when used oil can be diposed of properly for free and
True, but you're buying a new oil product, creating more demand for oil, and still putting oil into the environment.MasterMech said:proper bar oil can be had for about $7 a gallon. Plus any of the affordable, enviro-frendly alternatives, like Canola oil.
MasterMech said:No issues with running Canola on long bars? (36"+) I know the "Bar & Chain" oils have a tack additive that makes the oil sticky.
Jay, #8 is prob the best argument I've heard for Canola yet, lol.
CountryBoy19 said:"Your saw naturally disperses the oil very thinly over a large area. I can several truck-loads of firewood on a quart of oil. Dispersed over the area that all that wood comes from the environmental impact is very, very low."
Battenkiller said:I've been using canola for about a year now. Most chainsaw carvers like it because the saw is often right there in your face (dangerous, yes, I know) and they feel it is safer to breathe canola mist than bar oil mist. Plus, it smells better, pollutes your backyard less (especially if you have a well), and has very fine lubricating qualities.
This weekend I went to a carving get together and fired up the saws for the first time in weeks. My 346XP started on the third pull, but after I let it warm up for a few minutes and took the chain brake off, the chain didn't budge when I hit the throttle. I reset and released the chain brake several times, but it seemed that the brake was stuck.
I shut the saw off to check it out and noticed that the chain seemed to be frozen to the bar. Plenty of slack was visible (hard-nose carving bars need looser chains), but even the slack chain seemed stiff. I tried to pull the chain out of the top groove, but it was stuck in there pretty good. I fussed with it for a minute and got it all free and then hit the throttle and the saw revved fine and threw oil on the wood, so I assumed all was fine.
About an hour later, one of the gals carvers started cursing at her 339XP. Wouldn't oil and her chain overheated and seized up in the bar grooved. A very experienced carver for England was there, and he asked her what kind of oil she was using and she told him it was canola oil. "There's your problem." He took her saw apart and pulled the plastic oiler gear and it was stripped. He said it was from running the veggie oil. It hardens in thin coats almost like a varnish if you let the saw set for a while.
I checked my Dolmar electric (hasn't been run since spring) and it was bound up tight with dried canola as well.
So, after recommending this stuff to any and all for a year now, I'm beginning to have my doubts. Particularly if you are just falling and bucking trees for firewood. Streaks of bar oil are not a nice thing to find on your fine carvings, but I don't think your stove really gives a crap. I'd proceed with caution with this stuff, I see the potential for expensive saw repairs with it, or at least with the cheapo Wal-Mart canola I've been using. I did a search on a carving forum I frequent and came up with everything right down to blowed up saws being attributed to using canola.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/118564/message/1241198531/canola+oil+I'm+done
I'm gonna continue using it, but a little more observantly. No fun driving hours to an event only to find that you suddenly need a hard-to-find part and can't carve.
smokinjay said:Battenkiller said:I've been using canola for about a year now. Most chainsaw carvers like it because the saw is often right there in your face (dangerous, yes, I know) and they feel it is safer to breathe canola mist than bar oil mist. Plus, it smells better, pollutes your backyard less (especially if you have a well), and has very fine lubricating qualities.
This weekend I went to a carving get together and fired up the saws for the first time in weeks. My 346XP started on the third pull, but after I let it warm up for a few minutes and took the chain brake off, the chain didn't budge when I hit the throttle. I reset and released the chain brake several times, but it seemed that the brake was stuck.
I shut the saw off to check it out and noticed that the chain seemed to be frozen to the bar. Plenty of slack was visible (hard-nose carving bars need looser chains), but even the slack chain seemed stiff. I tried to pull the chain out of the top groove, but it was stuck in there pretty good. I fussed with it for a minute and got it all free and then hit the throttle and the saw revved fine and threw oil on the wood, so I assumed all was fine.
About an hour later, one of the gals carvers started cursing at her 339XP. Wouldn't oil and her chain overheated and seized up in the bar grooved. A very experienced carver for England was there, and he asked her what kind of oil she was using and she told him it was canola oil. "There's your problem." He took her saw apart and pulled the plastic oiler gear and it was stripped. He said it was from running the veggie oil. It hardens in thin coats almost like a varnish if you let the saw set for a while.
I checked my Dolmar electric (hasn't been run since spring) and it was bound up tight with dried canola as well.
So, after recommending this stuff to any and all for a year now, I'm beginning to have my doubts. Particularly if you are just falling and bucking trees for firewood. Streaks of bar oil are not a nice thing to find on your fine carvings, but I don't think your stove really gives a crap. I'd proceed with caution with this stuff, I see the potential for expensive saw repairs with it, or at least with the cheapo Wal-Mart canola I've been using. I did a search on a carving forum I frequent and came up with everything right down to blowed up saws being attributed to using canola.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/118564/message/1241198531/canola+oil+I'm+done
I'm gonna continue using it, but a little more observantly. No fun driving hours to an event only to find that you suddenly need a hard-to-find part and can't carve.
That saw is the worst maintain saw I have ever seen. Even over one that set in a barn over 50 years right next to the west coast salt air. Shame on that guy! It would appear that its time he look at a maintaining a saw thread and not what oil to use...lmao!
zapny said:smokinjay said:Battenkiller said:I've been using canola for about a year now. Most chainsaw carvers like it because the saw is often right there in your face (dangerous, yes, I know) and they feel it is safer to breathe canola mist than bar oil mist. Plus, it smells better, pollutes your backyard less (especially if you have a well), and has very fine lubricating qualities.
This weekend I went to a carving get together and fired up the saws for the first time in weeks. My 346XP started on the third pull, but after I let it warm up for a few minutes and took the chain brake off, the chain didn't budge when I hit the throttle. I reset and released the chain brake several times, but it seemed that the brake was stuck.
I shut the saw off to check it out and noticed that the chain seemed to be frozen to the bar. Plenty of slack was visible (hard-nose carving bars need looser chains), but even the slack chain seemed stiff. I tried to pull the chain out of the top groove, but it was stuck in there pretty good. I fussed with it for a minute and got it all free and then hit the throttle and the saw revved fine and threw oil on the wood, so I assumed all was fine.
About an hour later, one of the gals carvers started cursing at her 339XP. Wouldn't oil and her chain overheated and seized up in the bar grooved. A very experienced carver for England was there, and he asked her what kind of oil she was using and she told him it was canola oil. "There's your problem." He took her saw apart and pulled the plastic oiler gear and it was stripped. He said it was from running the veggie oil. It hardens in thin coats almost like a varnish if you let the saw set for a while.
I checked my Dolmar electric (hasn't been run since spring) and it was bound up tight with dried canola as well.
So, after recommending this stuff to any and all for a year now, I'm beginning to have my doubts. Particularly if you are just falling and bucking trees for firewood. Streaks of bar oil are not a nice thing to find on your fine carvings, but I don't think your stove really gives a crap. I'd proceed with caution with this stuff, I see the potential for expensive saw repairs with it, or at least with the cheapo Wal-Mart canola I've been using. I did a search on a carving forum I frequent and came up with everything right down to blowed up saws being attributed to using canola.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/118564/message/1241198531/canola+oil+I'm+done
I'm gonna continue using it, but a little more observantly. No fun driving hours to an event only to find that you suddenly need a hard-to-find part and can't carve.
That saw is the worst maintain saw I have ever seen. Even over one that set in a barn over 50 years right next to the west coast salt air. Shame on that guy! It would appear that its time he look at a maintaining a saw thread and not what oil to use...lmao!
+10 on that.
smokinjay said:zapny said:smokinjay said:Battenkiller said:I've been using canola for about a year now. Most chainsaw carvers like it because the saw is often right there in your face (dangerous, yes, I know) and they feel it is safer to breathe canola mist than bar oil mist. Plus, it smells better, pollutes your backyard less (especially if you have a well), and has very fine lubricating qualities.
This weekend I went to a carving get together and fired up the saws for the first time in weeks. My 346XP started on the third pull, but after I let it warm up for a few minutes and took the chain brake off, the chain didn't budge when I hit the throttle. I reset and released the chain brake several times, but it seemed that the brake was stuck.
I shut the saw off to check it out and noticed that the chain seemed to be frozen to the bar. Plenty of slack was visible (hard-nose carving bars need looser chains), but even the slack chain seemed stiff. I tried to pull the chain out of the top groove, but it was stuck in there pretty good. I fussed with it for a minute and got it all free and then hit the throttle and the saw revved fine and threw oil on the wood, so I assumed all was fine.
About an hour later, one of the gals carvers started cursing at her 339XP. Wouldn't oil and her chain overheated and seized up in the bar grooved. A very experienced carver for England was there, and he asked her what kind of oil she was using and she told him it was canola oil. "There's your problem." He took her saw apart and pulled the plastic oiler gear and it was stripped. He said it was from running the veggie oil. It hardens in thin coats almost like a varnish if you let the saw set for a while.
I checked my Dolmar electric (hasn't been run since spring) and it was bound up tight with dried canola as well.
So, after recommending this stuff to any and all for a year now, I'm beginning to have my doubts. Particularly if you are just falling and bucking trees for firewood. Streaks of bar oil are not a nice thing to find on your fine carvings, but I don't think your stove really gives a crap. I'd proceed with caution with this stuff, I see the potential for expensive saw repairs with it, or at least with the cheapo Wal-Mart canola I've been using. I did a search on a carving forum I frequent and came up with everything right down to blowed up saws being attributed to using canola.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/118564/message/1241198531/canola+oil+I'm+done
I'm gonna continue using it, but a little more observantly. No fun driving hours to an event only to find that you suddenly need a hard-to-find part and can't carve.
That saw is the worst maintain saw I have ever seen. Even over one that set in a barn over 50 years right next to the west coast salt air. Shame on that guy! It would appear that its time he look at a maintaining a saw thread and not what oil to use...lmao!
+10 on that.
Heck I bet it would not matter what oil is in his saw's. Fins should be check every single time you use one, this is what keeps them cool! Milling action he would have blow it way before it got that bad! lol