Can't get the temp up! Help

[ODog]

Hello everyone,
We installed a Pacific Energy 'Pacific' insert 2 weeks ago. This past weekend with temps in the teens and 20's we ran the stove 24/7. I couldn't get our living area higher than 63-64 degrees.
I must be doing something wrong.
The house is a typical raised ranch with pretty good insulation and a main open-plan living area of approx 900 sq ft with 11 ft cathedral ceilings (and ceiling fans).

At one point I had 2-3 inches of red-hot coals on the bottom and a number of red-oak logs burning. Still couldn't get over 64 deg. needless to say, if this is as warm as I can get this room, it cools off pretty fast once we leave for a few hours -somewhat defeating the purpose of a wood stove- once the furnace kicks on at 60.

I've tried regulating the damper, but it doesn't seem to help.

Any advise or suggestions would be appreciated. I would like to be able to get the living areas to around 70-72. Thanks in advance.

 

[babalu87]

Are you filling the firebox with wood?
Let the wood get good and charred up (so the surface is cracked like a chess board) then bank it down.

Stupid question, are the ceiling fans going in the right direction?

 

[wahoowad]

What are stove top temps? I'm betting you aren't running it hot enough.

Make sure ceiling fan is pushing air upwards.

 

[jeepin in maine]

sounds like maybe your wood still has to much moisture in it?i have some oak and maple thats only been down about 4 months,and while it lights and burns OK,it doesn't produce anywhere near the heat the dry stuff i have does.

 

[Jags]

What kind of stove temps are you seeing? The btu output of a 650 degree stove vs. a 400 deg stove is HUGE. I realize that inserts can be difficult to get a temp reading on (in some cases), but that will tell you if you are getting a good, effective burn (i.e. advertised heat output).

Edit: I gotta learn to type faster (Sorry for the repeat question Wahoo).

 

[Gunner]

You either have poor draft or wet wood........possibly both.

Is there a block off plate?

Full liner?

Will need all the details of the install Chimney height, location(exterior wall) etc. etc.

 

[philaphire]

another stupid question: do you have a blower and is it going on and staying on? (I had mine installed wrong and was short cycling, once I fixed that, it made a HUGE difference)
Do you have a stove top thermometer? Not sure if those can have one or not, but make sure you're burning hot enough - Babalu is right, you need to fill the box to really get the stove and therefore the air hot.

EDIT: seems like everyone wants to know - how hot is stove getting?!?

 

[ODog]

I didn't know about a 'stove top' thermometer, but I'll get one.

The chimney is on an outside will and I'm using a full liner. The ceiling fans are running slowly in reverse (pulling air up).
There is a blower and it seems to be operating correctly, not short cycling.

Yes, it's possible the wood is a bit wet. Most of the wood I'm using is 2 years old and dry, but some has only been down since April.

Regarding keeping the stove full, are you suggesting to pack it with wood, then as soon as I can fit another piece, due to burndown, put another in? I'm OK with this, if that's the case, just didn't know. Maybe I'm not running the stove hot enough.

Thanks so much for the quick responses.

 

[Cearbhaill]

Turn the blower on constant "high" for an hour or so.
I have exactly the same insert and have found that the blower speed is what manages the room temperature. With my blower on auto/low my 25x30 room stays right at 80ºF, but if I run it on high for even 30 minutes I'm in the 85º+ zone.

As far as keeping it full- I load up fairly full, run it wide open until it is really going well, then damp it down and don't touch it again for an average 5 hours or so. Then I rake the coals forward, load it up again, and repeat the cycle.
I was told to never feed a hot (damped down) fire- wait until it has burned down to just enough coals to enable new wood to catch fire easily.

 

[Gunner]

Regarding keeping the stove full, are you suggesting to pack it with wood, then as soon as I can fit another piece, due to burndown, put another in? I’m OK with this, if that’s the case, just didn’t know.

No, fill the firebox with wood and burn it down to coals before re-loading.

Is there a block off plate?

 

[Jodi]

We have a Pacific Energy Summit fireplace insert and are having the same problem. We can only get our room (~25' X 17') to 70 F, but that's about it. We are using dry seasoned oak and our surface temperature is only getting to between 250-300 F. What should the surface temperature be? We have a full stainless steel liner, but the installer did not install a block off plate. He installed fiberglass insulation around the flue. We are trying to get him to come back and install a correct block off plate.

 

[Hogwildz]

As its been said a zillion times:
Might be one of the following:
A, your wood is not as dry & seasoned as you think.
B, your not letting the stove get anywheres near a good high temp before cutting air back.

If the wood hisses, its wet. If with a good bed of hot coals, the wood takes more than a minute to ignite, its wet.
Let that sucker get to a top temp of about 500-600 then cut the air back and report back.
Fiberglass insulation may help, but it is not sealing that old chimney or stopping all the draft of cold air. Cold air will cool a stove much faster than a stove with warm/hot air surrounding it. Nuff said.

 

[begreen]

Shamong, did you watch this video?

http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/default.asp?lang=En&n=8011CD70-1

Click on the "Video" link on the top of the transcript. It may be busy, apparently some site has been sending a lot of traffic there today ;-)

 

[RonB]

Hey BeGreen that is a good teaching video! That is a handy video to refer new burners to.

 

[Jodi]

thank you very much for the info you provided as well as the helpful video...much appreciated!

 

[Cearbhaill]

Excellent video!!
That should be required watching for any fire newbie, like in a sticky.

I feel very fortunate to have stumbled upon you guys in my first season of burning- the info here is extremely helpful!

 

[wg_bent]

As its been said a zillion times:
Might be one of the following:
A, your wood is not as dry & seasoned as you think.
B, your not letting the stove get anywheres near a good high temp before cutting air back.

If the wood hisses, its wet. If with a good bed of hot coals, the wood takes more than a minute to ignite, its wet.
Let that sucker get to a top temp of about 500-600 then cut the air back and report back.
Fiberglass insulation may help, but it is not sealing that old chimney or stopping all the draft of cold air. Cold air will cool a stove much faster than a stove with warm/hot air surrounding it. Nuff said.

The only sound you should hear when you open your stove should be a roaring sound if really cooking or a a gentle popping of wood. If there is any other sound like a leaky bicycle tire, your wood is wet, and your stove won't produce any usable heat. The air coming out of the blower output should be so hot that you can't keep you hand in front of it for more than a few seconds. The radiant heat from the glass should be similar.

A stove that size should be able to cook you in that room at outdoor temps in the 20's

 

[isuphipsi1052]

I have a VC Winterwarm Small insert. It seems my firebox is set up for only "east/west" loading. Should I try to cut down some splits to do the north/south loading when it's really cold out. The one problem that I see is an orange glow around the area where the catalytic block is. How do I control the heat to keep this from happening?