castable refractory

[Mauler]

In the econoburn's lower chamber is a loose large firebrick intended to protect the floor of the chamber. It gets moved to clean the chamber of ash. Mine is broken and I want to buy some castable refractory to make my own. Hard to find the dry mix in my area lower Hudson valley, NY. I've looked online and seen many types Rutland, meeco, Mizzou castable, etc. Anybody done this? suggestions. I tried a premixed mortar from rutland and its drying now but I think that's really more for installing precast firebrick and not sure if it will hold. That brick gets moved a lot so I'm sure I will break more and want to be able to just have some backups ready.

Also apparently there are some high heat reinforcing steel needles that are added to some refractory mixes, thinking that might stiffen the brick, anybody use that before?

 

[maple1]

Can you just lay in some ordinary fire brick?

Don't have any knowledge of the Econoburn setup so maybe not?

I laid a small thin one in my secondary chamber, right under the nozzle. That spot gets blasted, so I think it helps. I keep a thin layer of ash on the rest of that surface. The brick has gotten thinner after 2 years but is still good to go.

Or can you just keep some ash there? If it was designed that way though I would think there is a reason for it.

 

[mustash29]

We use these guys at my work, trash to energy incineration boilers that see upward of 2000 deg F, 24/7.

Not sure if they will sell to individuals or the general public though.

http://www.zampell.com/

(broken link removed to http://www.zampell.com/refractories/)

Products used:

• Vesuvius
• ANH Refractories
• Unifrax

 

[hobbyheater]

I like( maple 1's ) idea of using fire brick. The part of the process that makes casting your own refractory a success or a failure is the curing period, the green refractory has to be brought up to operating temperature very very slowly .


This is a thread I did several years ago.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/giving-a-jetstream-base-new-life.76371/

 

[JP11]

I bought some castable refractory cement from my local masonry supply house. They had to order it in.. I can't remember the trade name. Worked well. Wasn't cheap.

JP

 

[hobbyheater]

(broken link removed to http://www.newhorizonstore.com/Products/131-refractory-chamber-eko.aspx)

These premade sections are likely cheaper than what you can buy the needles and refractory for!

 

[Mauler]

Can you just lay in some ordinary fire brick?

Don't have any knowledge of the Econoburn setup so maybe not?

I laid a small thin one in my secondary chamber, right under the nozzle. That spot gets blasted, so I think it helps. I keep a thin layer of ash on the rest of that surface. The brick has gotten thinner after 2 years but is still good to go.

Or can you just keep some ash there? If it was designed that way though I would think there is a reason for it.

it's a tapered brick about 12 inch x 18 inch (wide and long) with about 3 to 1 inch taper, so standard brick is not ideal (from what I understand ). I talked to the factory, and I need the brick

 

[Mauler]

We use these guys at my work, trash to energy incineration boilers that see upward of 2000 deg F, 24/7.

Not sure if they will sell to individuals or the general public though.

http://www.zampell.com/

(broken link removed to http://www.zampell.com/refractories/)

Products used:

• Vesuvius
• ANH Refractories
• Unifrax

thanks for the links, but I have similar industries near me and generally they don't sell to the public. I just need a 55# bag and nobody seems to have it near me.

 

[Mauler]

I bought some castable refractory cement from my local masonry supply house. They had to order it in.. I can't remember the trade name. Worked well. Wasn't cheap.

JP

thank you. yes I called my local and their supplier says about a month to just get it in, I'll probably just use them. Just looking for some other suggestions that I had not thought of

 

[Mauler]

(broken link removed to http://www.newhorizonstore.com/Products/131-refractory-chamber-eko.aspx)

These premade sections are likely cheaper than what you can buy the needles and refractory for!

thanks, I had looked at that site, don't think anything fits the bill, although I believe they might sell the dry mix bags. shipping is high on a heavy bag.

 

[Frozen Canuck]

JP in post 5 has it. In this instance store bought will be better & will cost more due to curing time. File away your paperwork so someone will have a starting point sometime in the next decade when this has to be done again.

 

[krinkov]

i made my refractory for my essex 1000 and used the rutland mix it worked but lasted about 30% less time.it took a lot of time but was worth it when you could not get parts in 2009.i wish i new the mix they used.

 

[Mauler]

I ordered a bag of heatcast 40 from my local supplier, just have to wait for it to come in. Meanwhile the rutland stuff is still drying (I think its been about 3 weeks)

(broken link removed to http://www.heatstoprefractorymortar.com/productDetail.php?HEATCAST-40-4)

I'll let you all know how it works out