Castle Serenity - chimney size question

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

Talegas

Burning Hunk
Oct 26, 2016
192
Metrowest MA
Hi all,
Thank you very much for all the information provided in my other post related the Wiseway. FYI, I ended up reaching out to one of the sellers in NH and they stated US Stove was only shipping out the one without the window and it was being thought to get any more information form them, that is why this re-seller was not even announcing on their on website the availability of the Wiseway.

That is not really the reason I'm not pursuing the Wiseway anymore, but the fact that I would need to be careful on fuel quality, type, and do not have a good space/way to vent it out from where i would place it.

(i wanted to reply to that thread but it was locked for some reason..)

Anyway, back to the reason of this post. Can the owners of he Serenity share some thoughts/knowledge on the venting needs of that little monster? I have read great reviews and satisfied folks with those units and it really caught my eye for the basement of my split entry house which is not that big and most likely will be able to send some warm air up to the main floor.

My current situation is that i have an existing venting pipe going out through the cinder block wall and then up (90 degree angle) ending on a capping around the same level as the main chimney. The pipe is an 8" pipe. So i would want to know if it would be feasible to just connect the Serenity with an adapter from its 3 or 4" exhaust to the 8" existing vent.

Do you guys think i would have to replace the entire thing? run a flexible 4" vent within it? remove it all together as i can vent directly to the wall as there are no windows on that side of the house?

thoughts?

PS: I did think of calling the customer service, but they are closed today and tomorrow. besides, i think you guys are more fun.
 
I would just run a flex pipe up inside the 8" pipe.
 
  • Like
Reactions: alternativeheat
Get the Castle Serenity PDF of install examples. I'm pretty sure they show a hook up as or similar to what you describe, even if it's an existing flue. I was just there looking at it today but did not save the link, though I found it right way in a general search. It's free and then you will know the answer. I can tell you this much, they show far more install options than an Ashley King 5502 install in terms of venting !
 
I guess I would look up what code for new install is in your area for reference.
Personally, I like simple plumbing, so if it were mine, I would probably look at removing the 8" and installing the insulated pellet stove piping and not go any higher than required.
If you install the OAK, then you can usually just plumb out the wall and terminate. But if you run without the OAK, then some rise should be designed into it for creating a draw if the power goes out or the stove controller hiccups. IMO
 
Found the user's manual from 2011. http://www.castlestoves.com/Documents/Download/2

It is pretty comprehensive and it is sort of bittersweet answer.. seems it has very simple way to vent it. .no need to have a high flue according to diagram (terminate it right after exiting the wall with some distance restrictions) but it does states it "must" user 4" venting pipes..

I'll look up the code locally to see if there is a requirement for it to be up the side to the roof.. let's see what will be. I hoped i could do it myself but if i need to get pipes and replace existing ones then i might need to ask a pro for help mainly because of the tools. I'll buy the little monster tomorrow before ACE Hardware's sale is gone. .they have it for 900 bucks :)
 
Found the user's manual from 2011. http://www.castlestoves.com/Documents/Download/2

It is pretty comprehensive and it is sort of bittersweet answer.. seems it has very simple way to vent it. .no need to have a high flue according to diagram (terminate it right after exiting the wall with some distance restrictions) but it does states it "must" user 4" venting pipes..

I'll look up the code locally to see if there is a requirement for it to be up the side to the roof.. let's see what will be. I hoped i could do it myself but if i need to get pipes and replace existing ones then i might need to ask a pro for help mainly because of the tools. I'll buy the little monster tomorrow before ACE Hardware's sale is gone. .they have it for 900 bucks :)

Inspect it before you take it home for damages. It is packaged very well, but make sure no one speared it with a forklift along the way or tipped it over etc. Mine came with the control panel detached and packaged, so a couple screws and it is fully assembled.

Pellet venting is very different from wood stove venting. But the main restrictions seem to be more related to windows and doors than height.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lake Girl
evening folks, does anyone have any experience with this castle stove? I'd like something that works all the time. Thanks

I've got a season and half on two of them. Love'm. My stoves are very forgiving on pellet type or brand. I have tried a few brands local to me, and settled on a doug fir soft wood. Ash content seems very low. Heat output is all I need, but I cant speak for btu comparison between pellets.The stoves are a bit noisier than what I hear many of the higher priced stoves are, but I like it myself. I sleep better with the background drone of the blower running on low.
 
evening folks, does anyone have any experience with this castle stove? I'd like something that works all the time. Thanks
I know that there is flex for pellet stoves and since the manufacture of the castle stove calls for a 3" vent pipe not 4 it seems you could run it up the 8" pipe and it should still work and save you a lot of time changing over.
 
I've got a season and half on two of them. Love'm. My stoves are very forgiving on pellet type or brand. I have tried a few brands local to me, and settled on a doug fir soft wood. Ash content seems very low. Heat output is all I need, but I cant speak for btu comparison between pellets.The stoves are a bit noisier than what I hear many of the higher priced stoves are, but I like it myself. I sleep better with the background drone of the blower running on low.
Deezl, how big of a house are you heating?
 
I'm heating an old attic only insulated, 900 sq'ft farm house. I have two stoves in it, one at each end, but only run one at a time and only on low. The south stove is running right now and it is nearing 70 degrees in here. May have to shut it down over night or open a window a bit as I dont like a hot house.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rich2500
I know that there is flex for pellet stoves and since the manufacture of the castle stove calls for a 3" vent pipe not 4 it seems you could run it up the 8" pipe and it should still work and save you a lot of time changing over.
Almost all stoves call for 4" venting if you go up more than say 15' max or so. But many allow to hook into existing venting of 6" or 8". 3" is the standard on most stoves but only of a vertical run of under 15ft or a certain EVL,then you have to increase to a larger vent size . So many people believe that the stove calls for 3' and then try to run that along ways up, WRONG !

I still suspect that with the Serenity, he can come off the stove with 3", use an adapter and go into that 8" flue directly. I thought I saw that rig in the drawings I looked at yesterday. But 4" flex inside existing flue is pretty much standard everywhere. He could ( may not need to but could) drop a 4" liner down that existing flue. My Harman is set up that way and it has 3" off the back, I increased right away to 4", ran to a T, then up 26 ft with 4" liner through masonry ( actually 23 ft of liner, then about 3 ft. external and lower T.. Works great, will pass most codes everywhere unless you get a putz building inspector or something.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GT_Sharp
  • Like
Reactions: rich2500
evening folks, does anyone have any experience with this castle stove? I'd like something that works all the time. Thanks

just do a search on here and you will find tons of info
 
  • Like
Reactions: Deezl Smoke
Found the user's manual from 2011. http://www.castlestoves.com/Documents/Download/2

It is pretty comprehensive and it is sort of bittersweet answer.. seems it has very simple way to vent it. .no need to have a high flue according to diagram (terminate it right after exiting the wall with some distance restrictions) but it does states it "must" user 4" venting pipes..

I'll look up the code locally to see if there is a requirement for it to be up the side to the roof.. let's see what will be. I hoped i could do it myself but if i need to get pipes and replace existing ones then i might need to ask a pro for help mainly because of the tools. I'll buy the little monster tomorrow before ACE Hardware's sale is gone. .they have it for 900 bucks :)

I think your making a very wise choice going with the Serenity over a wiseway
 
Inspect it before you take it home for damages. It is packaged very well, but make sure no one speared it with a forklift along the way or tipped it over etc. Mine came with the control panel detached and packaged, so a couple screws and it is fully assembled.

It will be ship to an Ace store in NH (no taxes.. he he he).. i'll take a long look at the packing and then open it up right there before i drive back home.
 
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/925061/Castle-Serenity-Pellet-Stove.html?page=18#manual

Scroll to either side to look at other setups. And the sizing specs are elsewhere but I'm not searching for it, just keep scrolling LOL !
hehe
I posted the link from the manuf directly. They have this great illustration specifying the length of the pipe (and if it bends) . Each "configuration" shows in a shaded area, and they state that if you are out of the darker area then you might need a blowing fan to push the fumes out. Very nifty manual.
 
A bit excited today. Well, since Tuesday, but more today as I might be able to go and pick up the stove from the store. It could not arrive any earlier as the freaking cold is getting to me now.

I need to buckle down and read all that needs to be read in order to install it before i go out on vacation :( I would hate to come back to an igloo of a house and not able to turn on the heat.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lake Girl
PS - the shipping on the Castle Serenity to my area is $109 but there is a $50 credit until Christmas ...........
 
True , not worth worrying about over $50 but others might be shopping for one & in NH with no sales tax that would be a good deal ............
 
Let us know how it works out when you get it home.

Well, i just picked it up and had to strip it at the store, otherwise it would not fit in my Rav4 .. lol. I secured it and no shaking while getting it home. Safely placed it in the basement (after a small cut on my pinky finger). All looks good (I "inspected it" at the store since i was opening it) and no scratches, bruises, cracks, nothing of that sort.

I did miss the two screws that attaches the stove to the pallet so i need to replace them on the back so the shiny sheet metal covering the back doesn't look flappy. It does have a screw securing it in the middle, so no worries if i miss the other two.

All of this said, i got the manual and the electronic panel out of the hopper and found gooey stuff ( i guess is fireproof sealant) but only in certain areas (see pic below).

any other owners noticed that? Should i put more sealant on the rest of the edges just for good measure?

r7sSsGz.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Deezl Smoke