Chain recommendations for Echo CS-400

[Badfish740]

I've got an Echo CS-400 with an 18" bar. I just came into four fairly large downed trees that the landowner wants removed and I'll be bucking them onsite and hauling them away. I figure I should bring a few extra sharp chains with me so that I don't get hung up out in the field. What should I get?

 

[kevin j]

totally clean wood, full chisel cuts faster.
Depending on your skill in filing, and dirt in the bark or grown into the tree, I would go semi chisel.
More importantly, go to Stihl, Carlton, and Oregon sites and read about chain filing.

Take a couple chains, a handful of files to match the chain you have, and an oregon file guide.
Two reasons:
1. You can file 3 or 4 strokes on an 18 inch chain about as fast as you can change it.
2. Changing it means you cut a few tanks until it is DULL, then change to SHARP. But the average of all cutting is 'sort of dull'. Filing every couple tanks means you go from SHARP fo sharp, then back to SHARP again......


k

 

[jtb51b]

I use Oregon 33lg full chisel chain on my Echo 4400.. the old 400s might have used a 3/8 chain and in that case I would go with oregon 72lp chain.. These are a full chisel chain and will cut fast and on the flip side dull quickly if misused.. If your worried about dulling/sharpening I would go with 33sl or 70?? chain, they are a bit more user friendly but cut a touch slower.. Stihl makes good chain as well but I am not familiar with their nomenclature enough to suggest their stuff..


Jason

 

[Badfish740]

Hmmm...thanks for the advice. I guess I should have added that this is all downed wood that has been sitting on the ground since the summer. No matter what there is going to be some dirt in there. Maybe just picking up the file guide/file might be a good idea?

 

[Gooserider]

I would strongly reccomend learning how to hand file, and touching up the chain after every tank. That will give you the best cutting and the longest chain life (it takes less filing to keep it sharp than it does to bring it back from dull....)

In any case, bring at least one spare chain, and if you only have one saw, bring a spare BAR - that way if you get stuck you can unbolt the powerhead and use the spare bar and chain to recover.

A couple of other useful tools to have

1. A PAIR of "pulp hooks" - they make it far easier to handle rounds once you get the trick of working with them. Get the ones with the replaceable tips, and avoid the heavy duty tips - the lighter tips are a bit more fragile, but are easier to make stick into a round.

2. A "Felling Lever" - this is a fairly short (~30") lever that is a crowbar for trees - mostly intended to help make smallish trees fall over, it is also useful as a small cant hook, and for prying open cuts that have you wedged, or breaking apart a round where two cuts didn't quite connect - lots of uses - today I was using it to help move a 36+" round onto my splitter (Not bad, looked like a couple days worth of wood from ONE round!)

3. Just on general principles, a cant hook or peavy, and possibly a 5-6' pry bar.

Gooserider

 

[aandabooks]

Doesn't the CS-400 run a lo-pro chain? 62 dl if I'm not mistaken. If that is the case, run 91VX or the Bailey's equivalent. If you're in .325 pitch, 20LP. I really don't think tha is a full 3/8 saw but if it is then the choice would be 72LGX or Stihl 33RSC yellow chain.