Chain sharpening? ??

[Applesister]

I bought a 2 in 1 combination file set for the stihl and think its the greatest invention ever.
Now I want to use the same thing on a mini chain, the 3/8" Low profile.
My question is that I have guard links on this smaller saw setup.
Its Bailey s #91VG052G chain.
I know you cant use these files on the skip tooth chains and was wondering if the guard links would qualify as a spacer link making this chain also incompatable.
Meaning that if I want to use the 2 in 1 combo file for 5/32" low profile chains I may have to switch my chain set up to go with the more aggressive chain, the Oregon #91VXL.
I have about 7 chains of the anti kickback guard style and would be okay with switching to the grabbier chain but cheapsake Im hoping not to have to.
Can the Chainsharp filing gude be used with what I have already?
Im switching my system to filing on the working site vs having the chains sharpened by a shop.
If anyone knows if this Pferd sharpener can work with the guard links (since I have to order this thru mail)
Thanks

 

[Jags]

I have ordered the Stihl version but have yet to get it, so I have not been able to see the design to really answer your question - actually, the only reason I am responding to this (with little to no info) is to second your idea of doing this yourself. That is one funky looking sharpening job on the chain above. That gullet is some sort of ugly.

 

[Jon1270]

wondering if the guard links would qualify as a spacer link making this chain also incompatable.

I don't have one of those sharpening jigs. That said, the guard link doesn't change the cutter spacing but it might get in the way if the raker file is angled to tilt the top of the raker forward a bit, as I expect it is. Also if the bumper links themselves needed to be taken down then my guess is the jig won't facilitate that.

Like Jags, I wanted to comment that that is one nasty grinding job you've got there. I hope you're not paying someone to do that to your chains.

FWIW I have a roll of 91VX that's more than I need, and I have the tools to make up loops...

 

[saskwoodburner]

That chain doesn't look right.

 

[maple1]

I'm going 4ths - that is one seriously funky looking chain.

 

[DodgyNomad]

I bought a 2 in 1 combination file set for the stihl and think its the greatest invention ever.
Now I want to use the same thing on a mini chain, the 3/8" Low profile.
My question is that I have guard links on this smaller saw setup.
Its Bailey s #91VG052G chain.
I know you cant use these files on the skip tooth chains and was wondering if the guard links would qualify as a spacer link making this chain also incompatable.
Meaning that if I want to use the 2 in 1 combo file for 5/32" low profile chains I may have to switch my chain set up to go with the more aggressive chain, the Oregon #91VXL.
I have about 7 chains of the anti kickback guard style and would be okay with switching to the grabbier chain but cheapsake Im hoping not to have to.
Can the Chainsharp filing gude be used with what I have already?
Im switching my system to filing on the working site vs having the chains sharpened by a shop.
If anyone knows if this Pferd sharpener can work with the guard links (since I have to order this thru mail)
Thanks
View attachment 168874

Try it and see. I'd carefully lay your EZ file in the cutter, and see how everything lines up. Make a couple of strokes, and see where it lands. I doubt you're going to like it, but you won't hurt anything.

 

[BenTN]

What happened to that tooth?

 

[Applesister]

I have ordered the Stihl version but have yet to get it, so I have not been able to see the design to really answer your question - actually, the only reason I am responding to this (with little to no info) is to second your idea of doing this yourself. That is one funky looking sharpening job on the chain above. That gullet is some sort of ugly.

I couldnt really see those details till I took pics and blew them up and cropped for pic file size. Even with reading glasses. I know all those angles are critical, my poor saw.
The bumpers actually look higher than the depth gauges. And they dont give you much sharpening tooth. I dont think these chains are designed to be resharpened much.
Now that Ive actually decided to pay attention to it.

 

[Jags]

I couldnt really see those details till I took pics and blew them up and cropped for pic file size.

That may be...but the person that was sharpening them for you should have. I would be dissappointed to say the least.

 

[maple1]

That one tooth looks like somebody made a half-arsed attempt at square filing it. With a blindfold on.

 

[Applesister]

I don't have one of those sharpening jigs. That said, the guard link doesn't change the cutter spacing but it might get in the way if the raker file is angled to tilt the top of the raker forward a bit, as I expect it is. Also if the bumper links themselves needed to be taken down then my guess is the jig won't facilitate that.

Like Jags, I wanted to comment that that is one nasty grinding job you've got there. I hope you're not paying someone to do that to your chains.

FWIW I have a roll of 91VX that's more than I need, and I have the tools to make up loops...

Thank you, regarding the guard link not adding the extra link, so the chain would fall under the 'Full comp chain' group for those combo file jigs.
But the guard link might be in the way of the file guides. I guess the easiest thing is to check the Stihl 5/16" low profile guide and see if everything lines up. Maybe get lucky.
These are the chain specs:
5/32" file, 14" chain, 52 drive links, Husk H36, oregon #91VXL or 91VG, (.375) 3/8" pitch, .050" bar gauge, .025" depth gauge.
If this file system (on site) fails I may switch chains. Or maybe try them anyway?
Give it a whirl?
I must admit I find the skip tooth chains really jumpy.

 

[Applesister]

That chain doesn't look right.

How so?
My mom used to say 'too many hands in the pot spoils the stew.'
Tried a new shop and my tractor mechanic had at it too. So 3 different 'jobs'

 

[Jags]

(Deleted skip tooth rant)

If you don't have an oversized bar for your power head or are using a long bar in large softwoods you really don't have a need for skip tooth chain.

 

[Jags]

Tried a new shop and my tractor mechanic had at it too. So 3 different 'jobs'

I don't know which one was responsible for the chain in your picture - but one thing comes to mind - "You're Fired".

 

[Applesister]

Try it and see. I'd carefully lay your EZ file in the cutter, and see how everything lines up. Make a couple of strokes, and see where it lands. I doubt you're going to like it, but you won't hurt anything.

I think I will bring the saw to Stihl and ask if I can check it to the file guide they sell for their low profile saws. Im nervous about commiting to a mail purchase(Bailey's). Im getting a headache trying to study numbers.

 

[Jon1270]

These are the chain specs:
5/16" file, 14" chain, 52 drive links, Husk H36, oregon #91VXL or 91VG, (.375) 3/8" pitch, .050" bar gauge, .025" depth gauge.
If this file system (on site) fails I may switch chains. Or maybe try them anyway?
Give it a whirl?
I must admit I find the skip tooth chains really jumpy.

I think you meant 5/32" file, not 5/16. You're describing standard 3/8" LP chain. At the Stihl dealership that will be chains that start with the number 63, such as 63PM, 63PM3, 63PS, 63PS3. If they have 63PM2 (if that even exists), don't buy it because that would be safety chain.

How so?
My mom used to say 'too many hands in the pot spoils the stew.'
Tried a new shop and my tractor mechanic had at it too. So 3 different 'jobs'

Understand that we only have a good view of one tooth on one chain and it could be anomalous, but the tooth on the left has been sharpened a few times with a squared-off wheel instead of rounded. The gullet hasn't been cleaned out in a long time so it looks graceless and ugly, and it will take a lot of work with any file guide to get it cleaned out enough that you can actually sharpen the thing by hand. The hook angle also looks wrong, making me think the chain probably doesn't cut efficiently or self-feed very well. I'd say your sharpener operator is at best merely ignorant, or at worst just phoning it in instead of working carefully.

 

[Applesister]

What happened to that tooth?

My Stihl dealer sharpens my chains for the husky too, normally, but I tried the JD dealership closer to me, they just started selling Stihl saws and offered to sharpen so I gave them a shot but my BIL is POed that they blued one of his chains. He thinks they should get fired too. I think someone was just learning.
Oh well..
And then my tractor mechanic went at it one day with a Harbor Freight chain grinder. The 29.00 sharpener. He thinks I should get one and set it up.
Normally I pay about 100.00 every time I drop off chains.

 

[Jon1270]

Normally I pay about 100.00 every time I drop off chains.

Ouch. So you're dropping off a dozen or more at a time I guess (and hope). A chain grinder might be a good idea at that rate, but the Harbor Freight version doesn't have a good reputation. You can probably find a grinder with a better cost:value ratio.

 

[Applesister]

That may be...but the person that was sharpening them for you should have. I would be dissappointed to say the least.

Yeah, I think I pay 6.00 or 8.00 per chain. But like I said...all those bad angles are from three different gringer set ups.
Im going back to my Stihl guy.
So before I start with hand files all those multiple weird angles need to be fixed?

 

[Jags]

..all those bad angles are from three different gringer set ups.

Not buying it. A single, PROPER grinder session should clean up all prior sins.

 

[Applesister]

(Deleted skip tooth rant)

If you don't have an oversized bar for your power head or are using a long bar in large softwoods you really don't have a need for skip tooth chain.

I know, scratch that skip tooth comment on my part too, I think it was another type. Just the file guides dont work on them...

 

[Jon1270]

So before I start with hand files all those multiple weird angles need to be fixed?

They might not all need to smoothed out and made beautiful, but it looks to me as if a file held at the correct height will hit the upper steps well before it gets anywhere near the cutting edge. If that's correct then you'll be doing a lot of remedial work trying to get the extra metal out of the way. If your Stihl dealer does a good job then it might make sense to have them do some clean-up grinding for you.

 

[Jon1270]

...or buy a decent grinder, and set about learning. If you wreck one or two safety chains during the curve, it's no great loss.

 

[Applesister]

Ouch. So you're dropping off a dozen or more at a time I guess (and hope). A chain grinder might be a good idea at that rate, but the Harbor Freight version doesn't have a good reputation. You can probably find a grinder with a better cost:value ratio.

Ouch is right, time to stop being lazy and figure something out.
I read the threads. I just never thought I was good at sharpening anything. But that newfangled guide file worked really nice. Even for my halfarsed attempts.
Im gonna stay at it.

 

[saskwoodburner]

How so?
My mom used to say 'too many hands in the pot spoils the stew.'
Tried a new shop and my tractor mechanic had at it too. So 3 different 'jobs'

Well, it's a different style chain than I have, but the gullet? area should have a nice sweeping curve to the inside, and the top plate should be similar length compared to the others. The rakers might benefit from a smoother transition, instead of a sharp angle.

Don't take what I say as being critical, it took me a bit to get my own chain filing right, and it's still by no means perfect. But when you have the chain set up right, it's very noticeable (especially for me, with a low powered saw).

I can imagine the performance is down, and there's a fair amount of vibration/sore buzzy hands later, again, I found that out first hand.