chain stuff

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truck243

Member
Feb 20, 2011
41
louisville ky
Hi all!, this is great site. it has "real" info., I appreciate all I have read here. I have a question regarding chains on my poulan pro pp4218avhd .Is there a better chain for it than the oregon chain? Im always interested in making something better. The oregon chains need sharpening often, or maybe I need to be instructed on proper maintenance and lube.(other than whats in the owners manual)
 
Size of chain would help?
 
Welcome to the forum truck243.

For sure no matter which chain you use, you should learn to sharpen your own chain. I have a neighbor who came over last week to ask if I would sharpen his chains and it turns out he has been paying $12.50 per chain! Wow! Although I used to sharpen only with a file I now use a dremel and stone. It takes just a few minutes to sharpen the chain with these and you can do an excellent job with them if you are careful. The biggest thing is to not burn the chain by holding the stone too long on one tooth. You can pick these up sometimes for $10 but I've seen them as high as $35.00. Or you could get a bench sharpener. I've seen others recommend the cheap Harbor Freight model. It doesn't take much to sharpen a chain after all so why not save a few dollars.

Oregon chains are fine but there are different types. Jay will give you great advice on this one.
 
Run a file over the chain each time you add gas or oil. It gives you a break so you don't exhaust yourself as fast (and possibly make an accident) and keeps the chain sharp with minimal effort.

Most chains have a guide showing the angle you file at. On the ones that don't I'd try using a guide until I learned the angle.

Matt
 
I'm not trying to start an agrument but over all my years of cutting I really like Stihl chain. It seems to stay sharper longer and just give me better performance over the long haul. I have a couple of Oregon chains and they are OK but I'd say I'm partial to Stihl chain.
 
The height of the file while sharpening is critical to getting the proper cutter shape, which goes a long way toward determining how well it cuts, and how long it stays sharp.
The angle of the cutting edge, looking from above, relative to the bar is also important.

I find it IMPOSSIBLE to get these right and consistent with an unguided file. No can do. However, a guide like Granberg's File 'n Joint makes it trivially simple. Been using the same one for 30+ years, and some of the files almost as long ("Laser" and "Saber").

Couple of strokes per tooth, done. Minimal metal removal helps to get high mileage out of a chain (and bar.)

Usual disclaimer: keep chain out of dirt, stone, fence wire, yada-yada. When in doubt, check it & sharpen it. You'll learn to spot dull cutter on sight/touch.

Welcome.
 
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