Chainsaw counterweights?

[pdboilermaker]

A business associate of mine has a Sthil MS 310 that came standard with a 20" bar, he has put on a 28" bar and that has thrown the balance off, is there and where can you get a counter weight to put on the head side of the saw to bring the balance back?

 

[smokinj]

A business associate of mine has a Sthil MS 310 that came standard with a 20" bar, he has put on a 28" bar and that has thrown the balance off, is there and where can you get a counter weight to put on the head side of the saw to bring the balance back?

310 should have no bigger bar than a 20 in i bet the balance is off by alot

 

[smokinj]

A business associate of mine has a Sthil MS 310 that came standard with a 20" bar, he has put on a 28" bar and that has thrown the balance off, is there and where can you get a counter weight to put on the head side of the saw to bring the balance back?

310 should have no bigger bar than a 20 in i bet the balance is off by alot, counter weights i have never heard of

 

[pdboilermaker]

Yes, it is off a lot. The saw runs great with a 28" using a square chisle, skip but it wears him out quickly because of the balance issue. It isnt his everyday bar, he only uses it for special occasions, normally he uses his 20".

We are all using the square chisle, skips on all of our saws for better performance.

 

[smokinj]

with the small bars you get better proforamce with out the skip with that monster fire box i would look in to a bigger saw when you can

 

[computeruser]

A counterweight? That has to be about the stupidest idea I've ever heard. Wow, maybe your buddy can have an MS310 that weighs as much as an 088...but still cuts like an MS310. That makes a lot of sense.

The simple truth is that long bars don't "balance" the way short ones do. They aren't supposed to, compliments of those pesky laws of physics.

Either he needs to get used to the balance of a long-bar saw, or get a more powerful saw that allows him to pull a 28" bar with a bit more authority and lets him finish his work faster.

 

[cmonSTART]

Ya, just adding more weight to the saw is probably going to wear him out even quicker. Balance isn't really an issue when you're cutting.

 

[JustWood]

IMO , no weekend wood jockey needs a 28" bar. My crews cut 40" stuff with a 20" bar all the time.
If I was a scrounger I would never bother with anything ove 30" anyway. Seems like an awefull lot of extra work.

 

[pdboilermaker]

From: http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/comparison.html

MS 310 59.0 cc
(3.6 cu. in.) 3.0 kW (4.0 bhp) 5.9 kg
(13.0 lbs) 560 cc
(18.9 oz.) 330 cc
(11.2 oz.) 3/8" RSC3 40 to 50 cm
(16" to 20")

MS 880
STIHL Magnum™ 121.6 cc
(7.42 cu. in.) 6.4 kW (8.6 bhp) 10.1 kg
(22.3 lbs) 1300 cc
(44.0 oz.) 700 cc
(23.7 oz.) .404" RM, RS, 3/8", RCS3 43 to 150 cm
(17" to 59")

First, let me say to all once again. My buddy uses this bar OCCASIONALLY, not full time. His NORMAL bar is a 20" that is used 99.9% of the time. I do not see why this question warrants personal attacks against my business associate it is simply a question that was looking for help....not a beat down.

First let me address computeruser from here forward will be known as "The Steve Forbes of wood" - Stihl no longer makes an 088, it appears that it has been replaced with a MS 880. The weight of that saw is 22.3 pounds at a cost of $1740.00 (http://www.stihldealer.net/productdetails-dealer-002072-prodid-557.aspx).

The 310 weighs 13 pounds and costs $420 (http://www.stihldealer.net/productd...46-toplvl-2-catid-2-subcat-2-catprods-39.aspx), the new bar cost him $60 so he has $480 in a saw that weighs 17 pounds.

It doesnt seem to be cost effective to spend an additional $1320 for 1 or 2 times of use per year, just a simple answer to a simple question about a counter balance would be nice. Additionally, did you read the OP? He is my business associate, NOT a buddy and there is a difference.

Secondly, let me address Lees Wood-co - Your crew cuts 40" wood with a 20" bar? How can that be possible ? 20 x 2 = 40? Hey good math there Steven Hawkings what if you were cutting a 50" tree? Maybe he isnt a wood scrounger, just someone with a big saw that helps his buddies out when they need it and now has a simple question

 

[JustWood]

From: http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/comparison.html

MS 310 59.0 cc
(3.6 cu. in.) 3.0 kW (4.0 bhp) 5.9 kg
(13.0 lbs) 560 cc
(18.9 oz.) 330 cc
(11.2 oz.) 3/8" RSC3 40 to 50 cm
(16" to 20")

MS 880
STIHL Magnum™ 121.6 cc
(7.42 cu. in.) 6.4 kW (8.6 bhp) 10.1 kg
(22.3 lbs) 1300 cc
(44.0 oz.) 700 cc
(23.7 oz.) .404" RM, RS, 3/8", RCS3 43 to 150 cm
(17" to 59")

First, let me say to all once again. My buddy uses this bar OCCASIONALLY, not full time. His NORMAL bar is a 20" that is used 99.9% of the time. I do not see why this question warrants personal attacks against my business associate it is simply a question that was looking for help....not a beat down.

First let me address computeruser from here forward will be known as "The Steve Forbes of wood" - Stihl no longer makes an 088, it appears that it has been replaced with a MS 880. The weight of that saw is 22.3 pounds at a cost of $1740.00 (http://www.stihldealer.net/productdetails-dealer-002072-prodid-557.aspx).

The 310 weighs 13 pounds and costs $420 (http://www.stihldealer.net/productd...46-toplvl-2-catid-2-subcat-2-catprods-39.aspx), the new bar cost him $60 so he has $480 in a saw that weighs 17 pounds.

It doesnt seem to be cost effective to spend an additional $1320 for 1 or 2 times of use per year, just a simple answer to a simple question about a counter balance would be nice. Additionally, did you read the OP? He is my business associate, NOT a buddy and there is a difference.

Secondly, let me address Lees Wood-co - Your crew cuts 40" wood with a 20" bar? How can that be possible ? 20 x 2 = 40? Hey good math there Steven Hawkings what if you were cutting a 50" tree? Maybe he isnt a wood scrounger, just someone with a big saw that helps his buddies out when they need it and now has a simple question

There is no such thing as counter weights for saws. They are designed to run best with the bar they came with. If he wants to run a bigger bar then he will have to deal with the balance issue and less power.

Even though a 50"r is rare we do cut them with a 20" bar. You bore cut the center of the notch. Most of the time a tree will tapper enough by the end of the first log that you are under 40".

Balance is really only essential when felling anyway. With a longer than normal bar the front of the saw would be tilted forward thus the "firewood cutting position". Unless he cuts wood over his head then I don't see that much of a problem.

 

[pdboilermaker]

Ok thank you, no shuch thing as counterweights

 

[aandabooks]

You can always gain a little more bar by removing the bucking spike. I run an 18" on my 310 and feel like the saw is perfectly balanced. Personally I wouldn't run a 28" on the 310 because of how taxing it would be on the motor.

I'm not sure why you jumped all the way to the 880, but a 440 will handle a 28" bar. Of course, they are out of production and are a $700 saw anyway. But the bar mount is the same as the 310.

Basically, if you want to run a longer bar effectively, you need more displacement.

 

[johnsopi]

I just replaced the 20" on MS310 with a 16" bar. I like how it runs much better now.

 

[Sealcove]

As already stated; there are no saw counterweights. Unless your friend is cutting loads of 4-5' diameter logs tell him to lose the 28" bar, and the problem will be solved.

 

[chad3]

It is also a lot harder to get a horizontal cut with the longer bars which is exactly what you want when felling the tree. Nose will constantly be trying to point to the ground. Once it is on the ground however, the nose weight will not be an issue as you will be having the saw in the cut.
Oh, like said above, no counterweights, but for about 700 bucks you can get a Solo from Bailey's that will run a 28 without a problem (only about a 300 increase).