Chainsaw Mill Question ?

[Jim Ignatowski]

Hello Everyone,

Hope all is well. I was lucky enough to receive three large truck loads of firewood over the past few months. It's mostly oak. I've been wanting to make some shelves and I was considering cutting boards out of some of these logs that I have left. I figure if I screw it up, it will simply end up in the stove.

Question - has anyone used a chainsaw mill and do you have suggestions on what to buy ? I see portable mills on Amazon for about $150 but no idea if they're good. I'm not going to be doing long boards - I'm thinking 48" tops.

Next question, I have an MS360 - if I buy the right chain, will this saw be capable of doing to cuts ?

Appreciate any thoughts or suggestions. Thank you

 

[Highbeam]

You can buy a lot of perfect shelf lumber for 150$.

 

[Jim Ignatowski]

No doubt - but I figure could probably buy a cheap mill for $100 and give it shot. I've been shopping around for something

appreciate the reply

 

[EbS-P]

My cheap one worked fine. It been modified now to be longer. Point of reference, I’m hoping I can get a 32” wide cut in oak with a full skip milling chain with my 92cc G660. Yes you can but it will need dried then planed (got a planer?) then held wil split and warp. It will take many hours to get one board. Mill stuff you can’t buy.

 

[Jim Ignatowski]

I have a box planer - I've been reading about drying, looking at 1year per 1". Not sure if there is a kiln around here that offers to dry slabs. Worst thing would be having a bunch of slabs drying. I'm always looking for lumber to work with, and if I totally screw it up, I'll feed the stoves

 

[Pinesmoke]

For a few years I cut and sold slabs. I started with a chainsaw mil and a 36" bar ending up with a mil I built with a 6' bar and Honda motor running it.

Some things I learned along the way.
Basic chainsaw mill will do the job though it's not fast, just cruise it so the saw wanders less.
A hand planner for 50 bucks will do wonders to clean up your cut. WEN is cheap and really pretty good. I roughed it before drying the slab. It's easier to cut.
Buck the logs a foot or so longer than you need for finished length (your shelves) so the splitting can be cut off the ends.
Paint the ends with any latex paint to slow the end grain drying, reduces splits.
When that's all done stack the slabs with 3/4" x 3/4" between them and ratchet strap them together tight. It will help cupping
Run a fan to circulate air between them early on. When fresh cut they can mold due to high moisture.

ETA
I could push the drying by tenting the stack of slabs with a tarp supported with some 2x4s and put a dehumidifier inside the tent.

 

[EbS-P]

For a few years I cut and sold slabs. I started with a chainsaw mil and a 36" bar ending up with a mil I built with a 6' bar and Honda motor running it.

Some things I learned along the way.
Basic chainsaw mill will do the job though it's not fast, just cruise it so the saw wanders less.
A hand planner for 50 bucks will do wonders to clean up your cut. WEN is cheap and really pretty good. I roughed it before drying the slab. It's easier to cut.
Buck the logs a foot or so longer than you need for finished length (your shelves) so the splitting can be cut off the ends.
Paint the ends with any latex paint to slow the end grain drying, reduces splits.
When that's all done stack the slabs with 3/4" x 3/4" between them and ratchet strap them together tight. It will help cupping
Run a fan to circulate air between them early on. When fresh cut they can mold due to high moisture.

ETA
I could push the drying by tenting the stack of slabs with a tarp supported with some 2x4s and put a dehumidifier inside the tent.

Very good info.

 

[Jim Ignatowski]

Thank you Pinesmoke - great information. I ordered the mill and I'm getting a larger bar and ripping chain. I'll try to remember to update this thread when I start cutting slabs. Thanks again for the response !

 

[EbS-P]

Thank you Pinesmoke - great information. I ordered the mill and I'm getting a larger bar and ripping chain. I'll try to remember to update this thread when I start cutting slabs. Thanks again for the response !

Keep that chain sharp and if in doubt run it a tad rich.

 

[Jim Ignatowski]

Question if anyone has time. For the initial cut, can I simply secure a 2x6 or 2x8 to the log as the guide? I would obviously level it and make certain the depth of the cut will be below the fasteners . I see a lot of people building frames or using aluminum ladders - I was wondering if this would be an easier solution. Thank yo

 

[Pinesmoke]

I've done both. If you go with the plank grab a package of wood shims to stabilize the plank along it's length to dampen vibration. If you just wanna give it a go just use some sticks and crap to help stabilize it .

The upside to a board is you can sink screws through it into the log. A ladder you need to be a little more creative to attach it but is more stable.

ETA
Look at your heart cracks on the ends to help set up with. If you can get your main crack swallowed inside your cut, the vertical crack running down in the pic, (crack running inside the board parallel to the board face) you can slow down how far they run as things dry. If they are running in the board across (if you cut in the pic with your bar horizontal) they will open up longer as the board fries.

Hope that makes some sense, I'm not fully caffeinated yet

 

[Jim Ignatowski]

Great info - thank you Pinesmoke. I'll send update once I give it a go. Appreciate your response

 

[4x4prepper]

I have found end sealer worth it, if doing a lot of logs, but, any old latex is better then nothing. Stacked outside stuff will need time to dry, inside a garage it dries a lot quicker, even if no HVAC is there. PT balusters make good stickers. 1.5" provides good breathing.

 

[lindnova]

You need a good guide system to get good results. I use a 2x12 with steel angle screwed on and use lumber to screw into the log and fit between the angle iron to hold the board. I have 2x4 and up to 2x10 depending on the height the board needs to be held.

 

[EbS-P]

And I like my ladder and boat winch I added after this photo was taken. Use a stretchy cord/rope and it will help you keep consistent forward pressure

 

[coal and wood man]

I bought a Haddon lumber maker, a 20" bar and a ripping blade for my Stihl. Glued up some 1 1/2 pieces to make a straight guide and when I make lumber I stand it straight up and bolt it to my woodshed. I then stand up the logs and screw them to the straight edge and just let gravity do the work with the saw. I havn't milled anything over 8 foot at this time. I also sharpen the blade after every cut.