Chimney Connection?

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NCFord

Member
Jun 5, 2011
203
central NC
Just bought a new house and won't have my boiler moved and hooked up for at least a year. So the new house has a wood stove that I don't think is quite right. See pic. I can see the orange glow of the fire looking down into where the stove pipe is inserted the wrong way. I am not planning on using it till I install a new chimney or an decent repair, I'm afraid of poor indoor air quality and CO. I don't think it matters but it's a hearthstone Heritage 1 8021.

Thanks
 

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I'm not sure from the pic where you are looking down into and seeing fire. But that is a odd (to me)looking connecting pipe. Can you take a pic of the whole thing further back? The pipe to stove connection looks to be the proper direction to me. Male down is how all piping goes. So if you poured a glass of water down the chimney it would all run to the stove, not leak out.
 
It looks like a funky install, but the stove pipe looks to be installed in the correct direction.

Soapstone stoves waste a ton of heat up the flue. Stone is an insulator not a conductor, so having excessively hot stove pipe isn’t uncommon, but it still shouldn’t glow or have flames in the flue collar. Is the baffle intact?
 
Is it some kind of heat scavenging connecting pipe? If your actual chimney is decent and the stove is in good shape you may just need a new connecting pipe is all. Hard to tell whats all up from those pics?
 
The baffle is made from essentially cardboard. It’s made from compressed ceramic wool. It’s very easy to break, so it’s common for the chimney sweep to break it with the chimney brush.
 
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In my limited experience I've seen that very thing. Not done by me luckily. The homeowner when he had last cleaned and he owned up to it. As the baffle was cobbled together and as soon as I jostled it while getting the stove ready to clean it broke apart.
 
There’s a local chimney sweep we call “baffle busters”. He’s known for it, also known for not even telling the home owner. Instead he loads up the broken parts and ignores the fact he broke it...
 
Jokers like that give sweeps a bad name. From what I've seen all to common.
 
The baffle is indeed broken and really mostly missing, I knew that and have ordered a new one. The baffle missing is the reason the fire can be seen but it still seems like there should not be much of an opening for gasses to excape. I will seal the small gap with that black goop that is used for gaskets adhesive or high temp silicone. Here is a pic looking down on top of stove, no fire going.
 

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Looks like a pc of stove pipe, going into the stove the correct way, but connected on the top side to some sort of class A, with a jerry rigged cap at the joint where the two sizes meet. If that baffle is missing, that is the fire or glow of the fire you're seeing. Time for a baffle and some new, correct piping.
 
A pic of the whole setup from further back would be handy.
 
Here is a pic from farther back. It seems it's just a small section on 6 inch single wall stove pipe then transitioning to double wall pipe, then through the ceiling.
 

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Don't seal the stove collar with high temp silicon, use this rope gasket please, also you may want to buy new dvl in 6" from the ceiling support box to the stove collar, make sure you get a telescoping piece to make the connection and an appliance adapter for the dvl to stove collar, along with a new baffle board
 
Ok, just an update. I got the new baffle from Lynn manufactoring, very reasonable. And I cleaned the chimney and discovered that the 6 inch pipe off the stove that I thought went into double wall 6 inch actually is a single wall 8 inch pipe. The 8 inch pipe goes into the ceiling box where is transitions to double wall stainless steal where is goes through the roof and out.

The stove has great draft, better than many I have used in the past, but is it ok?
 
Thanks for the full picture and explanation. I thought I saw flberglass stuffed around the 6" connector stub. Is that so? If yes, I'd get rid of the current connector and replace it with 6" stove pipe going to a 6" x 8" increaser at the ceiling support box. Fiberglass is not an air tight seal and not rated for flue temps. If you want to run a bead of furnace cement around the crimped bottom end of the stove pipe before inserting it into the stove's flue collar, that's fine.
 
No fiberglass anywhere. There is some furnace cement around the stove collar as you suggested.
 
That's good, it's hard to tell from a picture.