Chimney install questions

[Jamess67]

I am ready to start installing my chimney. First I need advise

I have a vaulted ceiling (12 degree slope) so Im trying to decide to either run the pipe trough the roof or out the side wall.
The stove is a small Dutchwest 1000 sq footer.

I have very limited access to install parts and the ONLY installer in the area is backed up a month or more. Plus he only installs his stuff. That means big bucks.

So, I could really use your experience and in site as how to attack this. Through the roof (preferred but much harder to find parts) or though the wall ( parts available locally fairly cheap).

If I go through the wall I plan on running the stove pipe at an angle to the wall to eliminate some of the 90 degree bends. I also realize that I have to cut my sofit and trim all that out.

Finally, will different brands of install kits and chimney pipe still lock together. I was told the two might not work together.

 

[Bill]

I prefer to go straight up through the roof, better draft, and the chimney is inside, better draft again. You can get the parts you need at Menard's, or Tractor Supply, have any around by you? Your right interchanging different manufacturers might not work.

 

[Jamess67]

There is a Menards , Home Depot, Lowes 40 miles away. Not a big deal.
I guess I should have mentioned that my rafters and my ceiling joists don't line up . So I would have to find a spot where there is enough space between two to get the proper clearance. I was thinking of using the winged chimney clamp and avoid the big square box since I cant frame around it.

Im not sure if this is accurate but if I use the winged pipe clamp and secure that to the rafters do I need anything else besides a trim ring and pipe adapter on the inside of the house?

 

[Bill]

I used the square box, for an exposed A frame ceiling. They have a special one for angle installation, with trim kit. Good luck.

 

[nshif]

Different manf pipe wont mount up or seal properly. I used Simpson with a ceiling support box and it was no problem to frame. I had to jog the pipe with a couple elbows to get through the trusses but not really a big deal. beter to stay as straight as possible and inside then thru the wall. heres a pic

 

[Jamess67]

Is there anyway to tell who made what pipe? I have 2 3' sections that are the same, but can t find any marks to tell who made it.

 

[Metal]

The interior setup will be much cheaper (use more single or double wall black versus more Class A for exterior) and will give you better draft. You could always offset the Class A above the ceiling using either 15º or 30º elbows. You can't mix/match pipe brands as it will void the UL Listing.

 

[Jamess67]

Just so Im clear the vaulted ceiling box and the class A have to be the same brand?

I have enough class A to extend 3 1/2 ft over the roof and atleast a foot hanging down from the inside ceiling with out the use of a transition box. So could I just use the Metalbestus wing mount and a trim ring on the inside as long as I have the 2 inch clearance around the class A?

 

[Bill]

I am pretty sure you need the transition box. Because your going from class A to stove pipe on the interior.

 

[Jamess67]

I have seen transition rings to couple the two types, once again it would be nice to know what kind of class A
pipe I have.

 

[Bill]

When I did my install, the transition box supports the class A, above the roof. Take a piece of pipe with you and see if you can connect it to the new pipe. If it twists together easily, should work. If it doesn't I hate to say it but buy all new, that matches. Put the other sutff on Ebay. You want this to be right.

 

[Jamess67]

Ive searched all the different brands of pipe and it looks just like Duratech, based on the type of locking tabs and the inner recesses. So that solves alot of questions. I am assuming of course that the different brands all use different designs to lock the pipes together

 

[Bill]

Yes I believe so

 

[Metal]

Sure looks like Duratech to me (see picture of Duratech below).