Chimney liner questions

[orenn89]

I am looking to install my Hampton HI300 this summer in a 23ft exterior chiminey. From what i can tell a 6 inch insulated liner will work best for me. I have done some poking around and was wondering if anyone had any advice for the liner, as far as where to get it/what kits to get? Kits look to be around 400 and another 250 for insulation, are some better than others?
Also do you need to buy one of the adapters to attach the liner to the top of the insert or can you just attach it right on?
I have also heard of people using 5.5" liners so they dont have to hack up the damper, is this a good idea? If i went 5.5" i wouldn't have to hack it up, but i wouldn't be able to fit the insulation all the way down.

 

[webby3650]

Cut out the damper and be done with it. You won't regret it and it isn't all that hard.
We use light weight single wall like you have been looking at. I clean liners that are used 24/7 for many many years and show no signs of giving out, and they carry a lifetime warranty. Others prefer the heavy wall flex that is harder to work with and is more expensive. You will need an adaptor, usually an elbow is needed instead of the adaptor though. Typically a 30 degree elbow is needed, sometimes a 45. Only rarely does the straight appliance adaptor work out.

 

[RockfordChimney]

It is never a good idea to downsize the liner, I would stay at 6". If you go with the standard corrugated liner you are able to ovalize the liner slightly to pas it through the damper. You would only need to ovalize the liner the distance from the damper to the top of the stove. I would leave the insulation off the section of liner that will pass through the damper and then wrap that section after the liner is passed through the damper. I agree with the above comment about using an elbow to connect the liner to the stove. The liner generally has to make a slight bend coming through the damper. An elbow will make an easy connection.

 

[Smoked]

I just ordered a pre-insulated liner from http://www.firesidechimneysupply.com Only a a little more $$ than light liner + insulation and you don't have to mess with assembly and that mesh. I did that last time and it was a lot of work on 22 feet. Did not want to see what it was like with 30. We will see how hard the pre-ins is to work with in a week or so... I have a slight bend getting int the smoke chamber so either way it was going to be a little work. Agree, cut the damper out....or a chunk of it anyway. I can also see where a 15 or 30 degree elbow could help a bunch with an insert. Mine is a free standing so I am going to a tee.

 

[bholler]

If you go with the standard corrugated liner you are able to ovalize the liner slightly to pas it through the damper. You would only need to ovalize the liner the distance from the damper to the top of the stove.

Do not do this it will reduce draft and make it more difficult to clean. Just do it right and cut the damper frame out

 

[BrotherBart]

It is never a good idea to downsize the liner, I would stay at 6".

It was great idea for my 21 and 35 foot liners in 2006. Ovaling a liner is nuts. Period.

Don't ask me about that stainless elbow you sold me. You won't like the answer.