Beetle is correct, rubber roofing is EPDM.
What the poster is describing is either a tar (hot roof) or modified bitumen (torch down, and some are cold adhesive applied.
Hot roofs usually have either "slag" (small volcanic stone) on it, or are coated with a black asphalt coating.
Modified bitumen usually is coated with the aluminum coating (silver coating). Easy way to tell if its a modified roof is the seams are 3' apart. Hot roof although applied in overlapping plys of felt layers, are flood coated on top afterward with more tar, or have slag laid down over the flood coat.
If is is modified bitumen, you should let a professional roofer that does modified do the flashing. Torch down can be dangerous, as you literally torch the roofing and then lay it in place fusing the flashing to the roof. Many roofers who don't do it enough and have enough experience, overheat it, and although it looks great, the asphalt layer becomes thinner, and the membrane inside can either start to show through, or even if not, the thinning of the asphalt layers will cause it to prematurely fail &/ or crack early in it's life. If not heated enough, it will not seal properly, and any pin holes will end up as leaks. Torch down is not as easy or properly installed as many roofers who haven't done it for years & miles of it think it is. And I have heard many ill informed roofers call it rubber. Modified bitumen is not rubber.
If its a hot roof, the roofer may muck & tape it in, but that not last very long. Some roofers flash hot roofs the same as modified flashings, as described with slit fingers. But I never used 12" at each slit, that will not give you enough curve or bend around the flashing. Its a two step flashing. a long strip with approx 3" fingers sliced every inch or two the entire length along one of the long sides. Then it is heated along with the roof membrane and the fingers go on the roof surface and the uncut portion wraps around your metal roof flashing. it overlaps 4-6" or so once it wraps around onto itself. Then a bullseye, which is a patch with a hole cut out enough to lay over the metal flashing and yet tight over the fingers and lays flat, covering the fingers and extending past them by a minimum of 3", I usually do about a foot all the way around.
With a true EPDM rubber roof, they will use an uncured rubber flashing which is BLACK (rubber to rubber &/or rubber to metal) glued to the metal flashing and worked and formed down onto the rubber roof surface.
Yellow glue is for rubber to substrate only. Which would be decking, insulation, masonry etc. Never for rubber to rubber. My credentials are/were Carlisle, Goodyear, Firestone, trained & certified when I was still roofing.
Put down miles of both torch down, hot down,, cold applied modified bitumen, EPDM, Hypalon (which honesty is junk) hot tar, if it covers flat roofs, I polly used it.
Rubber lasts forever, but you will have to redo the flashing anywheres from 10 to 20 years later. The rubber field will last forever. Modified will last about 10 years, if not properly maintained less. If kept coated and maintained, could last longer. Tar depends on how many ply's and how well it was installed and maintained. I have seen 40+ year hot roofs in great shape.
Sorry to ramble, roofing is one thing I know very well
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CHeck for seams in your roof every 3' apart, I am betting you have a modified bitumen roof. And that is no one you want to try and flash yourself.
Actually, any of these typw roofs are really not for a DIY job.
