Clearances confusion for a pellet venting

[HearhFlame]

So I'm considering installing Comfortbilt HP50 pellet stove and only have one location for it in the house without disrupting the flow of the rooms.
I'm trying to find a zone where my termination would clear all the clearances.
My ideal spot would be the red dot on the first picture. Looks to me I'm clear on all sides just not sure about the small overhang on the right side. Do i have to be 2feet bellow the roof or which parameter on the last picture would be my scenario. (Green dot is spot i would go tru the wall and then up with 3" and terminate at red)
Thanks for all the input.

 

[johneh]

I see no problem. All your clearances look fine
Welcome to the forum

 

[HearhFlame]

Thanks for the reply. Couple more questions I need help with
What is the minimum clearance of the vertical pipe from the siding?
Does the bracket need to be screwed into stud like with the Class A ?
Can the piping be sprayed painted black with high-heat paint?
Is there such a thing as a telescoping 3" pipe piece to achieve exact vertical hight at termination like wood burning stove pipes have?
Thank you.

 

[bogieb]

Clearance for the pipe from the siding is dependent upon the pipe you use. Their instructions should give clearance to combustibles. Some is 1" and others are more (mine is 3")

High temp paint should be fine.

 

[johneh]

telescoping 3" pipe piece to achieve exact vertical hight at termination

Telescoping pipe is avabiale check with your manufacturer

 

[HearhFlame]

Is the Home Depot Duravent brand acceptable quality?
I have seen people on forums mentioning Duravent PRO. Is it the same thing or a higher grade?
Where do people buy it online? Seems like there are way too many choices at different price points and seemingly different customer service quality.
Thanks again

 

[bogieb]

My understanding is the PRO line is less apt to have leakages at junctions. But, the regular line is just fine if you wrap the junctions with Silicone tape (easy on, easy off if needed). And that tape is cheap and available in a variety of colors so it will blend in.

I've gotten some pipe off of Amazon, others at BBS, and some at other on-line places. Just do a google search and find the lowest price + shipping charges (just make sure they are all from the same mfg and product line). But, I had to do custom configurations, so just a standard "kit" would not work for me. The thimble can really vary in price depending on where you buy from. Also, make sure that the thimble you buy has the outside air hole built in (if you are doing an OAK)

 

[HearhFlame]

My understanding is the PRO line is less apt to have leakages at junctions. But, the regular line is just fine if you wrap the junctions with Silicone tape (easy on, easy off if needed). And that tape is cheap and available in a variety of colors so it will blend in.

I've gotten some pipe off of Amazon, others at BBS, and some at other on-line places. Just do a google search and find the lowest price + shipping charges (just make sure they are all from the same mfg and product line). But, I had to do custom configurations, so just a standard "kit" would not work for me. The thimble can really vary in price depending on where you buy from. Also, make sure that the thimble you buy has the outside air hole built in (if you are doing an OAK)

After some comparison shopping it hit me that being "leak proof " is not as essential in my setup ( straight through a wall timble/ through the wall / to a T and up 7' on the outside) as if i went vertically on the inside the house.
That's not to say i don't care about leaks on the outside - from what i understand any leak will have an effect on draft efficiency up the pipe.
Just maybe going with big box Duravent vs pellet vent PRO brand to save few $$$ won't be a bad compromise.
Any thoughts?

 

[bogieb]

After some comparison shopping it hit me that being "leak proof " is not as essential in my setup ( straight through a wall timble/ through the wall / to a T and up 7' on the outside) as if i went vertically on the inside the house.
That's not to say i don't care about leaks on the outside - from what i understand any leak will have an effect on draft efficiency up the pipe.
Just maybe going with big box Duravent vs pellet vent PRO brand to save few $$$ won't be a bad compromise.
Any thoughts?

I agree with your thought process. I would worry more about inside leaks than outside leaks (they can kill you). And if assembled correctly, the leaks are not huge, so I suspect (but don't know) that effect on draft would be minimal.

 

[BigJ273]

Is there soffit above there?

 

[HearhFlame]

Is there soffit above there?

Yes but looking at second picture/ diagram which would correspond with G parameter it is only requiring 2ft. There would be way more than 2ft innmy case.

It seems like as far as the temp of fumes coming out if 2ft from anything combustible is maintained it is safe. ( then there's clearances to windows/doors which are 4 ft but that's regarding not temp but possibility of smell/fumes reentering back inside.) At least that seems what's going on to me.

 

[BigJ273]

Yes but looking at second picture/ diagram which would correspond with G parameter it is only requiring 2ft. There would be way more than 2ft innmy case.

It seems like as far as the temp of fumes coming out if 2ft from anything combustible is maintained it is safe. ( then there's clearances to windows/doors which are 4 ft but that's regarding not temp but possibility of smell/fumes reentering back inside.) At least that seems what's going on to me.

I would just be worried about the soffit sucking the exhaust into ur attic

 

[HearhFlame]

I would just be worried about the soffit sucking the exhaust into ur attic

Good point. There should be about 6 feet minimum. But i never even stop to think about that. All i was worried a about was combustibles clearances. Thank you

 

[HearhFlame]

Since the bracket for outside vertical support gives you only several inches clearance from siding ( and i have seen people making bracket extensions) is there any code violation if pipe is sticking farther from siding? Let's say half a foot or even a foot? Except for looking goofy is there a problem with that? (No sidewalk or anything requiring clearance in that area of the house)

 

[johneh]

I don't see a problem with it being further away
unless it is in the way, something you could walk into.

 

[tlc1976]

I don't see a problem with it being further away
unless it is in the way, something you could walk into.

That, or if it’s out a long ways and not done securely, so it ends up being floppy. You’re not putting the pipe any closer to combustibles.

I put wood block spacers to space my pipe a bit farther from the house, to better fit the available horizontal pipe length. Screwed the spacers to the house, then the brackets to the spacers. Spacers are wider than the footprint of the bracket, to remain stable when being further out.