Clearances question

[KG19]

I will be having a PE Alderlea T6 installed to replace my current stove and I have a question about clearances and my hearth. The T6 requires a minimum hearth protection of 48”. I’m unsure of where to measure this on my hearth… (see attached pictures)

Do I measure from the brick to the edge of the hearth?

Or, since brick is non-combustible, do I measure from the (assumed) combustible wall behind the brick? Like in picture 3 below

I ask because, if I’m able to measure from the wall behind the brick, my hearth is exactly 48”. If I need to measure from the outside edge of the brick, then I’m short by about 3” and need to get a hearth extender. This is fine but I’d prefer not to if it’s not necessary.

 

[begreen]

Congratulations! If an extension is needed, it's just for ember protection. The stove placement determines the depth. If double-walled stove pipe is used then the stove back needs to be at least 7.5" from the wood wall or 3.5" from the brick. If the stove is going to get a blower, be sure to allow 3" more for that, though the clearances are still measured from the back of the stove. The hearth needs to have 16" from the front of the stove door to the hearth edge. If the hearth depth is shy, then a strip of metal can be nailed in front to make up the extension. This can be painted black or in a more decorative metal like copper.

 

[KG19]

Congratulations! If an extension is needed, it's just for ember protection. The stove placement determines the depth. If double-walled stove pipe is used then the stove back needs to be at least 7.5" from the wood wall or 3.5" from the brick. If the stove is going to get a blower, be sure to allow 3" more for that, though the clearances are still measured from the back of the stove. The hearth needs to have 16" from the front of the stove door to the hearth edge. If the hearth depth is shy, then a strip of metal can be nailed in front to make up the extension. This can be painted black or in a more decorative metal like copper.

Thank you! It’s been a long and complicated process…

So I just did some re-measuring. I’ll be using double wall stove pipe, so if I go 3.5” from the brick, and then measure the front to back dimensions of the stove given in the brochure (28 5/8”), then I have a little over 12” left on my hearth. My next question is how much the ash lip protrudes from the door opening? Because the dimensions given include the ash lip, but I only need 16” from the actual door, right?

 

[begreen]

Yes as measured from the door. The ashlip projects about 3.5" in front of the door. My suggestion is to install the stove and then do the extension afterward. There's no rush, this heating season is coming to a close.

 

[moxy]

I will be having a PE Alderlea T6 installed to replace my current stove and I have a question about clearances and my hearth. The T6 requires a minimum hearth protection of 48”. I’m unsure of where to measure this on my hearth… (see attached pictures)

Do I measure from the brick to the edge of the hearth?

Or, since brick is non-combustible, do I measure from the (assumed) combustible wall behind the brick? Like in picture 3 below

I ask because, if I’m able to measure from the wall behind the brick, my hearth is exactly 48”. If I need to measure from the outside edge of the brick, then I’m short by about 3” and need to get a hearth extender. This is fine but I’d prefer not to if it’s not necessary.

Surprised to see the brick in front of the wood.

At least 15 years ago my insurance company made me remove the brick because it was conductive to heat. I had to knock the brick down and replace it with a heat shield held to the wall with non combustible spacers at 1 inch. Destroyed the rustic look I had achieved as the house was built in the 1860"s. I had to replace the floor brick as well. Stove now sits on an approved floor pad with code clearances. ( pad covers where the brick was)

No changes, no insurance.

 

[begreen]

Surprised to see the brick in front of the wood.

At least 15 years ago my insurance company made me remove the brick because it was conductive to heat. I had to knock the brick down and replace it with a heat shield held to the wall with non combustible spacers at 1 inch. Destroyed the rustic look I had achieved as the house was built in the 1860"s. I had to replace the floor brick as well. Stove now sits on an approved floor pad with code clearances. ( pad covers where the brick was)

No changes, no insurance.

NFPA permitted clearance reduction was written years ago for unlisted stoves. Whether it is applicable depends on whether a) an NFPA 211 heat shield is accepted for clearance reduction in the stove manual, b) how much heat reduction is required, and c) how well informed the insurance company is. Per NFPA, 3.5" of brick without an airspace allows a 33% clearance reduction. A proper shield with the 1" air gap raises this to 66%.

In this specific case, it's a moot point. the manual does not specify a permitted reduction with NFPA shielding. Therefore, clearances are measured to the wood behind the brick.

NFPA Wall Clearance Reductions

The following table sets forth some of the reductions in wall clearances possible with certain wall construction details. For some further discussion on wall clearances, see: http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_wall_clear

www.hearth.com

 

[KG19]

Surprised to see the brick in front of the wood.

At least 15 years ago my insurance company made me remove the brick because it was conductive to heat. I had to knock the brick down and replace it with a heat shield held to the wall with non combustible spacers at 1 inch. Destroyed the rustic look I had achieved as the house was built in the 1860"s. I had to replace the floor brick as well. Stove now sits on an approved floor pad with code clearances. ( pad covers where the brick was)

No changes, no insurance.

The brick isn’t actually over the wood, the wood planks go around the brick. I’m unsure what the material of the wall is behind the brick… I can only see small views of it between the wood planks and the brick (if you zoom in on the picture you can see a tiny bit of it off the top left corner of the brick wall.

As it is now, it’s covered by my insurance with the current stove so I’m not making any changes to the brick or removing it. If needed I can add a hearth extender strip in front though depending on how the stove is positioned. I’m having it professionally installed so I’ll go with what they do, I was just trying to prepare for if I’ll need to buy some type of hearth extender.