I have an open loop Taylor boiler. I was wonder about the possibility of converting it to a low pressure closed loop system? Say around 2 or 3 psi. I want to do this to slow corrosion, prevent build of sludge in the bottom and having to add water as I don't have a water line to it.
Convert boiler to closed loop
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Just my opinion... I would not do that. Period.
I'm not trying to sound rude at all. It just could become very dangerous. The flat side walls of the water jacket are not designed to handle above 4 or 5 psi. I saw pictures of an Earth brand unit that a fellow bulged almost round.
To make it work you'd have to have a way to blow a plug reliably at a couple psi.
I would flush it out good and treat with a good nitrate based water treatment.
To add water you could tee in a fill valve in the house to backfeed through the lines.
I'm not trying to sound rude at all. It just could become very dangerous. The flat side walls of the water jacket are not designed to handle above 4 or 5 psi. I saw pictures of an Earth brand unit that a fellow bulged almost round.
To make it work you'd have to have a way to blow a plug reliably at a couple psi.
I would flush it out good and treat with a good nitrate based water treatment.
To add water you could tee in a fill valve in the house to backfeed through the lines.
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Another thought...
If you have to add water more than once every couple months it might be boiling it out?
Usually Taylor's have no continuous running pump which let's it layer out and boil on top. A small stirring pump loop can really help. Also a leaky door gasket or fan flap can create air leakage issues.
If you have to add water more than once every couple months it might be boiling it out?
Usually Taylor's have no continuous running pump which let's it layer out and boil on top. A small stirring pump loop can really help. Also a leaky door gasket or fan flap can create air leakage issues.
Alright, I understand. I thought if I used three pressure/temperature release valves at 3 psi and an expansion tank I would be safe . However, if it's dangerous I won't do it. I don't want to learn that lesson the hard way.
The flap on the fan works poorly. I manually prop is open when the fire is running. I replaced the door gasket and welded up the cracked door. The boiler is at a shop and there is no running water period. I have a 400+ gallon tank I have to bring when completely draining and refilling. PITO
The flap on the fan works poorly. I manually prop is open when the fire is running. I replaced the door gasket and welded up the cracked door. The boiler is at a shop and there is no running water period. I have a 400+ gallon tank I have to bring when completely draining and refilling. PITO
Yeah that's not a real convenient situation. Stopping air leakage and stirring the stove water would really help on evaporation. Trying to pressurize a stove that boils easily would be a bit dicey. 
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