Converting a propane insert to woodburning insert question?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

mdphilps

New Member
Hearth Supporter
I currently have a propane gas insert that is in my family room. It is built into a "bump-out" on the side of my house and is direct vented outside.

I'd like to convert it to a wood-burning insert. Now I know a wood-burner is going to need a chimney added to it.

Does anyone know of any "systems" out there for a prefabbed chimney?

My wife does not want just a silver metal flue running up the side of the house, so I would need one that I could apply stucco/stone to it.

I think I saw one on This Old House one time, but I can't seem to remember the name.

Also, because it is in a "bump-out" that is cantilevered off the side of my house, I assume I'm going to need some kind of foundation to support the weight of the chimney system. Sound correct?

Thanks in advance!!!
Matt
 
A stucko chimney, cool. I think I saw that program also. it was called this old burned down house.
 
I have no comment on the conversion process, as I don't know if what you are describing can be done. Are you replacing the LP gas stove with a wood burning stove, or are you asking if you can convert the existing stove to burn wood? I would think they are two different beasts, entirely.

As for an exterior chimney, today's Class A stainless steel systems require only a 2" clearance to combustibles (CTCs). You could run an exterior UL103 HT Class A system, and then enclose it with a chase. Use whatever material you'd like on the exterior of the chase, and then stucco or brick over it. Class A that runs through a wall will use a special kit to go through a wall and the outside. Part of this kit will include a base that attaches to the exterior of the house for support.
 
We had the same situation 3years ago when we converted from propane to wood. I tore off the box on the outside, placed our new high efficiency fireplace and then built a chase all the way up the side of the house. I used double walled pipe on the inside of the chase. I had several carpenters/builders that i knew come over and see if the cant-levered floor would be strong enough without footings. They all didn't see a problem with the current design as long as I used vinyl siding on the exterior. If I planned on brick/stone they said I would need footings. Make sure you get the proper permits if your required to get them. Hope this helps
Scott
 
<>I currently have a propane gas insert that is in my family room. It is built into a "bump-out" on the side of my house and is direct vented outside.<>

If it's not in a pre-existing fire place, it's not an insert. It's a direct-vent gas fire place....
I know, semantics...blah-blah-blah, but if you have the terminology right, when you go shopping
at a hearth shop, you'll sound like you're informed & maybe get a little better results from the hearth
specialists...

<>I'd like to convert it to a wood-burning insert.<>

See above. You CAN'T install an insert unless you have a wood burning fire place
to INSERT an appliance INTO.

<>Now I know a wood-burner is going to need a chimney added to it.
Does anyone know of any "systems" out there for a prefabbed chimney?
My wife does not want just a silver metal flue running up the side of the house,
so I would need one that I could apply stucco/stone to it.<>

Basically, once you decide what kind of wood burning unit you want, that will determine
what kind of venting will be required. If you choose a zero-clearance (ZC) wood burning
unit, the install manual will tell you what vent system you HAVE to use...

<>I think I saw one on This Old House one time, but I can't seem to remember the name.<>

Guess I missed THAT episode...

<>Also, because it is in a "bump-out" that is cantilevered off the side of my house, I assume
I'm going to need some kind of foundation to support the weight of the chimney system. Sound correct?<>

Once you pick out the unit, the weight of that unit & the venting system will determine
the structural (weight-bearing) requirements for supporting everything...
Your local building inspector MAY be able to tell you what's required, but you'd
be better off asking an architect or a structural engineer...
HTH
 
As has been mentioned, you won't be able to install an insert.

You will end up removing your existing prefab box that's there, and replacing the whole thing with what is usually referred to as a ZC (Zero Clearance) stove.

It's basically a wood burning stove that is designed to be installed directly into a framed opening. They look a lot like a fireplace, but you get the burning efficiency of an EPA stove or insert.

Whatever you do... don't just slap a ZC fireplace in there, as they are horribly inefficient.

-SF
 
Short story is that this will required a tearout and complete new installation. Maybe consider a freestanding stove as the replacement?
 
An isokern is not an efficient heater, its an open hearth fireplace for decoration / entertainment only.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.