What are signs of overfiring? I have a Regency I1200 small insert. How full can you pack the firebox (1.8 cu. ft.)? Can you burn untreated plywood? I have burned 4 fires and all have been moderate size with softwood.
Couple questions from a first year guy
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Overfiring varies - some say ~800º+, some 900ºF, some say glowing red. "Overfiring" has been covered dozens of times so feel free to read through the archives for all the opinions. Generally you can put as much wood in a firebox as will fit - provided you aren't hammering it in and damage firebrick or crack the glass in the door. The amount of space you leave will determine the burn rate - several small loose logs will be good for a quick, hot fire - a couple of monster slabs will burn all night long. Burning plywood, chip board, OSB, particle board, etc is not recommended due to the products produced when the glue burns.
woodslinger said:
NO PLYWOOD! The layers are stuck together with glue = bad. Get yourself a thermometer. Slap in on the face of the stove. It may not be the most accurate reading, but it will give you a bench mark reading. Signs of overfiring is any metal that is glowing (other than possibly the burn tubes), or warped or cracked metal.
As far as packing the firebox the general rule of thumb is to not go above the internal firebrick of the stove. Or at least maintain an air gap from the fuel to the secondary burner. (Burn tubes or cat).
And welcome to the forum.
Edit: Man there are some quick draws out this morning.
I can't speak to that stove specifically, but the general signs are any glowing parts. Best way to monitor, however, is to get a thermometer (or two). Place one on surface somewhere - owners of that stove will tell you where the best place(s) is/are.
Plywood is out - even 'untreated' is held together with glue and you really don't want anything but wood in your stove.
Plywood is out - even 'untreated' is held together with glue and you really don't want anything but wood in your stove.
Chiming in here late . . . as usual.
Overfiring can be determined by the glowing metal or warped parts . . . but a better way of preventing this from happening in the first place is to purchase a thermometer and see what the stove manufacturer recommends for optimal burning temps and what they consider over-fire temps.
Plywood . . . bad. The issue is with the glues and gasses. Ditto for treated wood (i.e. pressure treated, painted, stained, etc.) Some folks (including myself) will burn a few pieces of untreated dimensional lumber from time to time (i.e. left over 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 chunks) . . . but you really shouldn't load up the stove with this wood . . . and some folks suggest burning this is also not good unless the wood comes from a local mill which uses absolutely no chemicals or treatment.
Overfiring can be determined by the glowing metal or warped parts . . . but a better way of preventing this from happening in the first place is to purchase a thermometer and see what the stove manufacturer recommends for optimal burning temps and what they consider over-fire temps.
Plywood . . . bad. The issue is with the glues and gasses. Ditto for treated wood (i.e. pressure treated, painted, stained, etc.) Some folks (including myself) will burn a few pieces of untreated dimensional lumber from time to time (i.e. left over 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 chunks) . . . but you really shouldn't load up the stove with this wood . . . and some folks suggest burning this is also not good unless the wood comes from a local mill which uses absolutely no chemicals or treatment.
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