Creosote in pipe above stove

[DamienBricka]

Hello Guys,
This morning I decided to finish the instal of my CFM - FW240007. I notice a lot of dust/creosote in the 90 degree angle going to the chimney. Is it due to the fact that I placed a flue key on the pipe underneath the elbow?

I have included some pictures so you see what I am talking about.

Thanks for all the comments.

Damien

PS Lucky that is is 60 degrees outside today. Hope to have the stove back up and running by tonite since it will be in thirties tomorrow.

 

[Oregon aloha]

Damper or not creosote will accumulate (if any anywhere) anywhere the is a restriction or elbow. That is why folks try to get a strait run or use a "T" connector instead of a elbow so that there is no place for that nasty stuff to accumulate. I'm sure others will chime in with more insite on how to help you with your set up.

 

[KindredSpiritzz]

your pipe looks like mine except your creosote looks a bit wetter.

 

[begreen]

Single wall horiz runs act like a radiator, rapidly cooling and slowing down flue gases. If you can, try to increase the upward angle of the pipe toward the chimney. It needs to be pitched at least at 1/4" per foot, but go more if you can.

 

[DamienBricka]

Begreen. I am not able to increase the pitch of the pipe. What would happen if I insulate it. Would that help?
Thanks, Damien

 

[EatenByLimestone]

How tall is your chimney?

You shouldn't need a damper for your stove.

I'd pick up a steel chimney brush along with a length of rod and run it through the pipe before I put it back together. Have you decided how you will sweep the main chimney? It probably has creosote in it also. It's not at a dangerous level yet, but you want to remove it before it gets there.

Matt

 

[SKIN052]

Get the rest of the pipe clean asap. At the top you are going to be looking at a very similar, if not worst situation.

 

[oldspark]

Do you monitor your flue temps?

 

[DamienBricka]

Matt, The Chimney was sweep less then a month and it was all clean. I checked the guys work. I have gone to the
conclusion that it is the flue damper that will remain open from now on. All pipes are clean at the bottom.
Should I sweep the chimney again now?

SKIN052 The whole pipe was swept less then a month ago.

Oldspark, yes I check the flue temperature always above 200F

Thanks for the feed back

Damien

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

Whats your wood situation? Dry wood? getting lots of smoke?

 

[DamienBricka]

The wood is dry (less then 20% after a split) . I know what the problem is last week I burned a lot of card board and paper.
I know now it is a no no.

Damien

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

How much paper? Enough to create all of that in your pics?

 

[DamienBricka]

It was a lot. By I also believe is the damper on the pipe was closed a lot and the secondaries were not working.
I cleaned the pipe and i will check in a week and they if it is better or worth.
The flue pipe now is a 300 and the top of the stove at 550.
Any suggestions are welcome

Damien

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

The damper is new to me, I have been working with it only to control my draft. My burn times were out of control due to the strong draft. So I have found that a 3/4 closed draft when on cruise control works for me, the numbers (on the stove and stovepipe thermo's) are good. The stovepipe is still hot enough to avoid any major buildup problems and the stove secondaries are still coming in.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I think I'd run a brush or the Sooteater up the stack just for piece of mind. Before I installed my liner I would do it monthly whether it was needed or not. The Century isn't the most efficient stove so a little more care is justified. I think the EPA listed it as 4 or 5 grams of particulates per hour. Your tweaking will help that, but not eliminate it.

 

[DamienBricka]

Since I have ice and snow on the roof. What should I use from below. I do have a 90 degree angle to deal with.
Any suggestions welcome

Damien

 

[EatenByLimestone]

What is your flue made of? If it's terracotta you could use a steel brush. If it's stainless steel I'd use poly or something like a sooteater.

I use a steel brush on my singlewall and broke down and picked up a sooteater for my stainless liner, actually 2 because I needed more poles and it was only a couple more $$ to get 2 than buy one head and extra rods. I was leery of using the sooteater and after a couple years of great reviews here I figured it must be a good product. I'm very happy with it. When I had a terracotta chimney I fed a steel brush on fiberglass rods up it. I've always cleaned from the bottom. I'm not afraid of heights, but if I fall down on the ground there's less chance to get hurt.

 

[DamienBricka]

I have a stainless steel liner in the chimney. I cannot go on the roof as it is to slippery right now.
What I did today is clean all the pipes below the liner.
I stated to check on line and have not found a product that will do a 90 degree angle.
So how do you clean from the bottom when you have a 90 degree angle. I am puzzled and confused.
I am starting to realize that maybe I have to put an efficient stove in the pipeline for next year.

Damien

 

[EatenByLimestone]

The Century isn't inefficient, if it was, they wouldn't be EPA certified. It's just not as efficient as other stoves on the market.

I've had no issues with the sooteater going up my T. There is about a foot of pipe before it reaches it so it has to do a pretty tight bend.

 

[DamienBricka]

So it worked for you Matt. Good then that is what I will do.
Is there a company you recommend.

Damien

 

[EatenByLimestone]

http://www.amazon.com/Gardus-Inc-RCH205-Chimney-Cleaning/dp/B0010H5JXA

 

[DamienBricka]

Is this what you are referring to:
http://www.rewci.com/sodcrochclsy.html

Thanks,

Damien

 

[DamienBricka]

lol we are talking about the same thing