Critique my woodshed design.

[TheLastDeadMouse]

Hello all.

I'm looking to build a woodshed this spring, but have never designed any sort of freestanding structure. This is what I have after an evening in Sketchup. I'm hoping that the people that have been there before me and give me a little advice. Each of the 4 bays is roughly 4'x6'x6'. I figure if I stack the wood three rows deep it will hold about 3 full cord.


The main points I'm wondering about are

1. Is this drastically over or underbuilt considering the load?
2. Can I get away with using these concrete support blocks or will I need to pour sonotubes?
3. The roof drops 2' over a 6' run, is this enough for the snow?
4. Any miscellaneous other details I haven't thought of?

Thanks for the help, I've learned a lot just reading so far.

 

[velvetfoot]

Should the length of your splits be considered? For example, with 16" splits you could only fit 3 rows. 4 rows would be 64" +.

 

[mass_burner]

I think it depends more in where its positioned in relation to sun/wind. I think sono tubes are overkill IMO. I am in the process of this type of design myself, just have the floor and sides up so far. I would also leave more space between the slats on the sides/back for air flow.

 

[gzecc]

I think it looks well built except the drop roof eve 2x6. Don't see how that will be supported. Maybe eliminate that and make the roof rafter much longer. Enough to overhang the front and back. Front to prevent rain and snow from entering and the back to provide cover for and a stack of wood under it.
I would also use some simpson metal fasterners on the roof rafters.

 

[PapaDave]

How will the shed be attached to the blocks? Blocks to the ground?
I agree with gzecc in that you should make the rafters longer to reduce splashback from rain and melting snow. I like the front overhang, and several here have done it that way.
Do the Simpson rafter ties too.

 

[bigbarf48]

Looks pretty good to me. The concrete blocks will be fine

Like mass burner said maybe consider more spacing between your slats for better air flow

 

[Jon1270]

I think you could do with just one post in the middle of the open side, instead of three, and that would make access easier.

I'd also add a few diagonal braces to keep it from leaning over to one side or another.

 

[TheLastDeadMouse]

I'm not sure what length my splits will be at this point, I'll be buying green from a local supplier in the spring. I figured 6' long is enough to get three rows of anything that will fit in my stove.

Due to the yard layout the front of the shed will be facing Northeast. I'm considering making the roof out of corrugated polycarbonate in the back to let the sun in and cedar shakes on the front for looks.

The drop rafters in the front will be bolted at the top to the main roof rafter beside it (I didn't do a great job drawing this in the model). I'm thinking maybe running another 2x6x16 along the underside and then attaching diagonal supports to the 4x4 posts.

I'm planning on using hurricane clips when attaching the rafters.

I believe the 4x4 posts just sit in the precast concrete blocks, which sit on the ground. I'm sure they're enough to carry the load, but I'm concerned with frost heave.

 

[blazincajun]

...I'd also add a few diagonal braces to keep it from leaning over to one side or another.

Maybe attach the side slats at a 45°(degree symbol = Alt + 0176) angle for bracing and will provide a nice effect.

 

[Jon1270]

The drop rafters in the front will be bolted at the top to the main roof rafter beside it (I didn't do a great job drawing this in the model). I'm thinking maybe running another 2x6x16 along the underside and then attaching diagonal supports to the 4x4 posts.

You will need the diagonal supports for this. It will not fare well if you rely only on bolts at one end.

 

[gzecc]

I'm not sure what length my splits will be at this point, I'll be buying green from a local supplier in the spring. I figured 6' long is enough to get three rows of anything that will fit in my stove.

Due to the yard layout the front of the shed will be facing Northeast. I'm considering making the roof out of corrugated polycarbonate in the back to let the sun in and cedar shakes on the front for looks.

The drop rafters in the front will be bolted at the top to the main roof rafter beside it (I didn't do a great job drawing this in the model). I'm thinking maybe running another 2x6x16 along the underside and then attaching diagonal supports to the 4x4 posts.

I'm planning on using hurricane clips when attaching the rafters.

I believe the 4x4 posts just sit in the precast concrete blocks, which sit on the ground. I'm sure they're enough to carry the load, but I'm concerned with frost heave.

Any time you have a structure just sitting on the ground in cold climate you will have some frost heave. Put down a base of quarry process (qp). dig down about 6" and fill it up if you feel so inclined. It will also discourage varmints from trying to live under it. They don't like the stone.

 

[paul bunion]

Double up the 2x8 ridge (if that is even necessary) and only use one vertical 4x4 in the middle.

Make the dimensions of the shed so that you can use pallets for your flooring and save yourself $.

You will eventually decide to stack something under the front overhang, consider bringing out the floor a bit.

 

[JustWood]

I think you could do with just one post in the middle of the open side, instead of three, and that would make access easier.

I'd also add a few diagonal braces to keep it from leaning over to one side or another.

I agree. Go with a bigger header or add an inside header also and eliminate post 2 & 3.

 

[razerface]

i like the front 3 uprights, and maybe it needs more?, in fact i think it would be better to design it to stack from front to back, using the uprights at the end of the rows to hold the wood in. If you go 3 rows deep crossways, you cannot get to the back row until you use the other 2 in front of it,,and cannot stack more in there as you are using wood until it is empty..

If the rows are shorter, and go from front to back,,as you use a row, it could be replaced with green wood as you use the next row of seasoned wood. I would add some uprights to hold the end of each row, depending on how many rows would fit. You could make rows of different type wood if you wanted, and still have access to any row, at any time.

 

[mstoelton]

1x6 planking on the floor may not withstand a full load of heavy wood.

 

[razerface]

1x6 planking on the floor may not withstand a full load of heavy wood.

it should, skids are lighter weight then what he shows,, and they do it.

 

[valley ranch]

Just curious, what is going to keep the front shed overhang up? Do you get much snow there?

I just read Jon's post, 5 angle braces/gussets would be good.

Richard

 

[gzecc]

it should, skids are lighter weight then what he shows,, and they do it.

Upgrade to 5/4 but the more upgrades the more the cost.

 

[muncybob]

If you are storing already well seasoned dry wood I would not worry about the sides with respect to air flow. My 3 sides are 1X6 green cut pine that shrunk and I have small gaps(1/2"?) for air flow. I have a row of wood that has been in there for 3 years and it's looking as good as the day I put it in there....but it was very dry when put in. The only other advice I can add is something I read here before building my shed...decide how big you want the shed and build it bigger!

 

[gzecc]

If you are storing already well seasoned dry wood I would not worry about the sides with respect to air flow. My 3 sides are 1X6 green cut pine that shrunk and I have small gaps(1/2"?) for air flow. I have a row of wood that has been in there for 3 years and it's looking as good as the day I put it in there....but it was very dry when put in. The only other advice I can add is something I read here before building my shed...decide how big you want the shed and build it bigger!

In most areas you can build a shed without tax ramifications that is < 100 sq ft.

 

[mass_burner]

In most areas you can build a shed without tax ramifications that is < 100 sq ft.

Tax ramifications? Do you mean real estate taxes?

 

[gzecc]

Tax ramifications? Do you mean real estate taxes?

yes

 

[TheLastDeadMouse]

I've added some detail from the suggestions given here. Added in the diagonal bracing, hurricane clips, and bracing for the overhang. As drawn now the woodshed is 96 sq ft, I haven't check into local laws about permitting, tax implications, ect. yet. I wanted to have a good idea of what I was going to be building before I got into it too much. The slats on the wall as drawn are 1x6 dimensional lumber (.75 x 5.5 actual) with 2" spacing. This may change once I see it in person, its hard for me to picture what the right spacing would be.

 

[wahoowad]

That thing is going to be so nice you better run a electrical feed to it for your beer fridge, wifi and cable TV.

I just downladed that program to sketch up my own woodshed desgign. Where do I get the 2x4 drawing objects?!?!?!

 

[xman23]

What are you doing for a roof? I would have 8" overhang rear and sides. The floor is nice but it may be more trouble than good. If you go with shed foundation blocks ,underpin down so it doesn't blow over in high winds.