Curing external paint on Harman P43

[Kaarage]

I recently bought a used Harman P43 which had some internal and external rust. I repainted the external surfaces with VHT header (manifold) paint. After the paint dries, the recommended curing process is to bake at 250 degrees for 30 minutes followed by a cool down of 30 min, then bake at 400 degrees for 30 min with another 30 min cool down and finally to bake at 600 degrees for 30 minutes and cool down. As I painted the outside surfaces of the stove, I will need to measure the temperature of the surfaces and then maintain the temperature for 30 minutes. I have a digital laser thermometer which will allow me to measure the temperature. But how can I control the temperature to maintain the 250, 400 and 600 F for 30 minutes each? Should I use Room temp or Stove temp operating mode? What settings?

I grew up with a wood stove but this is the first time I have used a pellet stove and I am unfamiliar with the nuances of the Harmans.

Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[alternativeheat]

VHT temps aren't that critical to meet, approximation will do. And I doubt you can get the stove to 600 deg anyway, maybe the sides will hit that on a good hot burn.. I'd run the stove in a low to moderate burn for 30 minutes, let it cool off. Then blast it on the hottest setting you can get up to for 30 and let it fully cool. Then just put in normal use. On cold days when the stove really blasts you might still get a little enamel odor but the factory paint does too, I got a little the other day here in our fifth burning season with the P61. It's not like the stench of the initial burn off though but kind of a sweet smell mixed in with a little wood dust smell. Anyway, over time of use it will cure.

When I repaint our P61 at some point, I'll probably use Rutland stove paint. Doesn't need it yet.

 

[Ssyko]

You won’t get the entire stove to get to those temperatures. The fire box areas maybe. The baking/curing is done buy an oven. A big one. I do powder painting and my bake oven is 6’ x 3’ x 4’ i do motorcycle frames and parts. Manifold paint was intended to do manifolds / smaller parts and cured in an oven. Fire you stove up outside to cure what you can and keep the smell out of the house. Maybe point a salimander heater at the stove to help get the paint cured. Its gonna smell!

 

[Kaarage]

You won’t get the entire stove to get to those temperatures. The fire box areas maybe. The baking/curing is done buy an oven. A big one. I do powder painting and my bake oven is 6’ x 3’ x 4’ i do motorcycle frames and parts. Manifold paint was intended to do manifolds / smaller parts and cured in an oven. Fire you stove up outside to cure what you can and keep the smell out of the house. Maybe point a salimander heater at the stove to help get the paint cured. Its gonna smell!

 

[Kaarage]

Thanks for the info. I cured it yesterday and there was some smoke but it wasn't too bad as I had all the windows opened. I'll see if I can get a heater to cure the areas that did not fully cure.

 

[Kaarage]

Thanks alternative heat. I will keep my eyes open for Rutland paint. The installer of the P43 used Stove Bright paint on the pipes he installed. Have you used it before?

Cheers


post: 2206821, member: 31222"]VHT temps aren't that critical to meet, approximation will do. And I doubt you can get the stove to 600 deg anyway, maybe the sides will hit that on a good hot burn.. I'd run the stove in a low to moderate burn for 30 minutes, let it cool off. Then blast it on the hottest setting you can get up to for 30 and let it fully cool. Then just put in normal use. On cold days when the stove really blasts you might still get a little enamel odor but the factory paint does too, I got a little the other day here in our fifth burning season with the P61. It's not like the stench of the initial burn off though but kind of a sweet smell mixed in with a little wood dust smell. Anyway, over time of use it will cure.

When I repaint our P61 at some point, I'll probably use Rutland stove paint. Doesn't need it yet.[/QUOTE]

 

[alternativeheat]

Thanks alternative heat. I will keep my eyes open for Rutland paint. The installer of the P43 used Stove Bright paint on the pipes he installed. Have you used it before?

Cheers


post: 2206821, member: 31222"]VHT temps aren't that critical to meet, approximation will do. And I doubt you can get the stove to 600 deg anyway, maybe the sides will hit that on a good hot burn.. I'd run the stove in a low to moderate burn for 30 minutes, let it cool off. Then blast it on the hottest setting you can get up to for 30 and let it fully cool. Then just put in normal use. On cold days when the stove really blasts you might still get a little enamel odor but the factory paint does too, I got a little the other day here in our fifth burning season with the P61. It's not like the stench of the initial burn off though but kind of a sweet smell mixed in with a little wood dust smell. Anyway, over time of use it will cure.

When I repaint our P61 at some point, I'll probably use Rutland stove paint. Doesn't need it yet.

[/QUOTE]
I used to use stove bright but back in those days it was a wipe on stain, more of a stove black compound. I have not used the paint. But that stove black had to be done about every year. I later turned to the spray on Rutland paint for my coal stove and thought it was pretty good. VHT is probably more durable being that it is an automotive paint. I really don't think you will have a problem with the cure, it's just going to take more time. Meanwhile you probably burned off the most stinky stuff already.

The paint: