Damper Do's And Dont's
- Thread starter BillBurns
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
When you say damper which do you mean a damper in the flue pipe a damper for the redirection of smoke for a catalyst or do you mean the intake air control?
Yes, this needs clarification. Some call the primary air control the damper. Some stoves have a bypass damper. Others may have a stove pipe (key) damper. And some have all three!
The operation of the flue damper depends on the stove and how strong the draft is. One might close it down only 50% when it's 40º outside and 100% when it's 20º. Closing it down all the way still allows the passage of about 25% of the flue gases. This is by design.
As for the timing. That sounds about right for a cold start. On a reload over hot coals it may only be necessary to open the flue damper for the reload, then closing it down again after the reload ignites. This is more of a visual thing for me. If closing it down causes the fire to get too anemic or smolder then it's restricting too much.
As for the timing. That sounds about right for a cold start. On a reload over hot coals it may only be necessary to open the flue damper for the reload, then closing it down again after the reload ignites. This is more of a visual thing for me. If closing it down causes the fire to get too anemic or smolder then it's restricting too much.
Even a fully open key damper is a restriction in the flue. The goal is to reduce draft strength to a certain level that your stove runs efficiently at. The natural draft varies with temperature and wind so your damper settings will change as well. This is the biggest reason barometric dampers were invented, to automatically deliver that desired draft to the appliance.
You might think so but wood furnace manufacturers specify their use and even have included the baro dampers with new stoves.
Since only two are legal for sale have you seen baro damper problems above these two? The kuuma and drolet. They claim the furnaces are so clean that it’s not a problem but we know how that goes.
If you do damper down before the secondary combustion stage, make sure you keep it open enough that the pipe stays up to a proper temperature. If you turn it down too much and cool down your chimney too much, that's when creosote will quickly start to collect. I have an older stove and do have to damper down on the very cold nights where the fire would otherwise take off, but have noticed going too far closed does result in more build up.
On my stove, I've found I can get the stove to hold more heat by manipulating the damper and the air together. Instead of turning down just one or the other, I'll take both down a 1/4 and let it go for awhile before doing another 1/4 turn down. Usually after the damper is 1/2 closed, I just turn down air after that until that is cut to it's minimum. Every stove is different, so just play with it until you get the desired affect.
On my stove, I've found I can get the stove to hold more heat by manipulating the damper and the air together. Instead of turning down just one or the other, I'll take both down a 1/4 and let it go for awhile before doing another 1/4 turn down. Usually after the damper is 1/2 closed, I just turn down air after that until that is cut to it's minimum. Every stove is different, so just play with it until you get the desired affect.
Last edited:
Similar threads
