damper in black chimeny pipe or not

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diskjockey

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 17, 2009
5
illinois
on the front door of my woodstove it has a air adjustmet just screws in and out do i still need to use a damper in the black stove pipe also or am i just waisting my time. i cannot find any info on how to properly run this stove so any hints would be help full. i do have a damper in the stove pipe though and a barometric higher up since the plate on the stove says needs one. stove brand is hy-temp. thansk for any help on this subject.
 
How tall is your chimney? Straight up? Elbows or horizontal run? Do you have a stove model #? (Googling hy-temp stoves doesn't show much) Can you take a pic of stove/flue to post here? Do you have a strong draft? Any backpuffing when you open stove door?
 
from the back of the stove to the double wall pipe its 6 feet, and have 6ft of double wall going through the rafters then out above the roof one elbow on back of stove to make it go straight up, the model number is wf 30-2 , when i leave the damper wide open no back draft problems when opening door and i get a really strong draft even in windy times, as soon as i go and buy a camera mines broke ill pry be able to post a pic of it
 
diskjockey said:
on the front door of my woodstove it has a air adjustmet just screws in and out do i still need to use a damper in the black stove pipe also or am i just waisting my time. i cannot find any info on how to properly run this stove so any hints would be help full. i do have a damper in the stove pipe though and a barometric higher up since the plate on the stove says needs one. stove brand is hy-temp. thansk for any help on this subject.


I have a damper on the Vigilant and I don't have one on the Intrepid. I prefer having one. When the Mansfield is installed I will include a damper, also. I seem to get pretty good drafts on the two chimneys and I imagine the third chimney will be the same as it is the same height and setup when the stove is installed.
 
We need to figure out this "hy-temp wf 30-2". Such as: is it a newer EPA stove? Older stove affectionately known as a "smoke dragon"? Unless you are experienced with stove operation - a flue damper can hurt: you have smoldering fires that exhaust a lot of "gunk" into chimney that becomes creosote, possibly causing chimney fire.
 
this wood stove is an older one non epa aka smoke dragon, i think its maybe 10 years old or more only ran maybe 3 months then it sat the basement for the rest of the time til i was given it for free. i do notice not alot of build up inside flue brown stuff no shinny black crap. looks like cobwebs but brown, draft is great, ive been cleaning the unit out every month since i started it and i usually get alot of flakey stuff thats brown dull brown. and it smokes alot when i load it up at any time. was wandering if the to much smoke out of chimeny might be caused by me using the damper and im not closing it all the way down just about half way and it builds heat great but smokes for a while longer than 10 mins then clears up to what you cannot see. my wood is seasoned for 2 years alot of soft maple and i mean alot like 7 cords.
 
A smoke dragon will give lots of smoke early in the burn - burning off the volatiles in wood. Then less smoke and a slower burn as wood is consumed. If you have a key damper in the stove (as in near the flue exit) that you are adjusting - I don't see a need for another damper in the flue. You might get a longer burn but the risk of a smoldering, inefficient fire is too great. Once you have a coal bed going - experiment with damper positions - closed 1/4, 1/2, 3/4. Every stove has a learning curve - you gotta tweak settings and figure out what makes it happy. And you gotta check it quite often - observing fire and temps - thinking about what tweak to make next. You'll learn characteristics of stove and wood - then tweaking will be easier and more straight forward.
 
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