Damper issues.....Fisher Model 6639314

[JFarmer]

All-

We have been heating our basement with this fisher that came with the house yet no manuals. Growing up on a farm and heating the house with wood has provided some basic knowledge about fire, wood type, and damping.

The fisher damper control on the stove we have has several positions and inspection of the damper seems to allow for more of an opening than what I have seen in the pot belly stoves.

Question:

What is the recommended damper and air input position for slow burn of wood? We fill the stove up with wood at 9:00 pm, set the damper to next to last setting on the pull rod, open the intake vent on 1 side about 1.5 turns and we have no fire in the morning. The Draw still seems aggressive given the damper appears closed....

Any suggestions?

 

[coaly]

Fisher's of the past century (1900) did not use model numbers. hmmmm but welcome to the Forum;

This is the first time a question has come up (and the thread was moved to the new Fisher sub-forum) on what I believe is an antique cast iron Fisher, 1800's early 1900's?, not the air-tight steel plate stove invented by Bob Fisher in Oregon, 1973. Correct?


Do you mean the fire is out, as in went out, or burned out?
If this is an antique cast stove, they were subject to leaks where they are put together and not considered an air tight stove. The chimneys back then also didn't draft as well as today's, so a leaky stove connected to a more efficient chimney needs less air. Don't be afraid to close the air intake more. Just cracked open, is likely where it will run. You're doing good with the damper almost closed. (IF this is the parlor stove, base burner? I think you have)

Also are you in the US ? I have manuals for all the current New Zealand stoves.
Pictures would help determine what you have.