Looking on the danfoss website it seems they make 2 automatic boiler protection valves. The VTC and the TV. They both appear to do the same thing so which one is the proper one to get for a conventional wood boiler with storage? Also is it better to install it on the supply or return? What are the best temperature choices for each previously mentioned applications? I also see most everyone on here runs a ball valve instead of a balance valve with these things. Do you need a thermometer just past the protection valve to get the ball valve set right or is there another way to fine tune that setting?
Danfoss valves
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Good question. Based on the data sheets for these two valves it appears to me that the TV is most identical to the Termovar on my Tarm system, that is, a balancing valve also is used to control the flow of boiler output returned back to the boiler through the valve. The purpose of the valve is boiler return water protection, usually a minimum of 140F and up to 160F. I have found that my Tarm performs better with return water closer to 160F than a lower temp. For return water protection, you install it on the return side with a balancing valve. Look at your boiler manual for recommendation on appropriate return water protection temp.
As to the balancing valve, I use a gate valve on my system, mainly because I had the 1-1/4" gate valve and I didn't want to buy another valve. The gate valve works very well and can be finely adjusted to easily obtain the desired return water temp. I have a thermometer on the return line (after the Termovar) to the boiler to monitor actual return water temp. The balancing valve needs to be more open the colder the system return water, and when system return water is higher than 160F (or whatever your boiler mfr recommends), the balancing valve actually can be closed. But don't forget to reset it when the boiler is next fired and return water is lower than the desired return protection temp.
In general, with some experience, you may find you can "set it and forget it" with the balancing valve, as you may find a setting that meets required return water protection temp nearly all the time. For me that is 1 to 2 full turns of the gate valve handle from a fully closed position.
I don't really see any major difference between the VTC and TV, but maybe one is there.
As to the balancing valve, I use a gate valve on my system, mainly because I had the 1-1/4" gate valve and I didn't want to buy another valve. The gate valve works very well and can be finely adjusted to easily obtain the desired return water temp. I have a thermometer on the return line (after the Termovar) to the boiler to monitor actual return water temp. The balancing valve needs to be more open the colder the system return water, and when system return water is higher than 160F (or whatever your boiler mfr recommends), the balancing valve actually can be closed. But don't forget to reset it when the boiler is next fired and return water is lower than the desired return protection temp.
In general, with some experience, you may find you can "set it and forget it" with the balancing valve, as you may find a setting that meets required return water protection temp nearly all the time. For me that is 1 to 2 full turns of the gate valve handle from a fully closed position.
I don't really see any major difference between the VTC and TV, but maybe one is there.
What is a good balancing valve to use for this set up? That is, if you wanted something that was a little more hands free. I guess what I'm saying, I don't want to go out and turn a valve during each burn. Is the Taco accuflo balancing valve appropriate for this application?
I just purchased a Biomass 60 along with an 1-1/2" Danfoss TV 140 degree valve. I was under the impression that the Danfoss did the mixing. I guess this part of the install may be a little more elaborate "confusing" than I originally thought.
I just purchased a Biomass 60 along with an 1-1/2" Danfoss TV 140 degree valve. I was under the impression that the Danfoss did the mixing. I guess this part of the install may be a little more elaborate "confusing" than I originally thought.
It really is not very confusing or complicated at all. IMO you do need a balancing valve. A thermometer on the return is helpful, probe type meat thermometer works OK. Then just fire it up, and experiment a bit to find a relative sweet spot for the balancing valve - maybe 1/4 to 1/2 open would be it - then leave it alone. I am an experimenter type guy, so for me it is fun to play around, collect data, fine tune, change things and monitor the results, etc; but little if any of that is necessary.
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