Diamond in the rough...? Mama Bear

[X-Raycer]

Well, I put money down on this one, a Mama Bear for sure, and will pick her up Superbowl Sunday @ Noon.
I couldn't find a U/L Label on it. I don't know if the Door Patent # will give a clue to the build date.
But I'm thinking it's a early 1977.
She has a little pitting on the Rt. Front Angle, as you look at her face on.
She's no Prom Queen but I think she'll clean up good enough for my needs.
I think I did real good on the price, compared to prices I've been looking at.

I called a local steel Fabricator and can have a 15"x8"x5/16" thick Baffle made for $20. Would 3/8" thickness be better?

I've been checking with local companies to Sand Blast it, but the ones that returned my calls are all "too big" to take on such a small job.

I've researched building a Sodium Wash/Water electrolysis container, but that seems like a big "task" for a DIYer.
Then too, I may wait until I move this summer and have it blasted there. The little towns are cheaper and want the work.

I will have enough help to get it into a 4-wheel Hand/Garden Tracker cart that will hold 750 lbs.
With a Come-along and a Ramp, I'll get it in & out of my truck. The Cart has 10" tires, so I'll be able to maneuver it around by myself.

 

[ccmac]

You could use a stiff wire wheel on a grinder. I have used this tool many times cleaning off old steel and cast material, works great. Just wear a very good respiratory mask and goggles because the amt of crud in the air will be intense for a while. Do it on windy day in the driveway. Good luck to you.

 

[begreen]

Moved to the Fisher forum for guidance on the baffle.

 

[coaly]

5/16 is plenty thick enough. That thickness was used on a double door twice as wide with no warping.

Here's a '77 documented by stove number in weld on bottom from PA.
Notice first style stainless spring, straight handle, 4 fin caps.



Soon after, 5 fin caps started, the springs changed to plated, and longer handles were bent like yours. They remained like that and became the "norm". Patent number is the same throughout. Yours is before tags when they became attached to rear shield in 1980 becoming the VI.

A knotted type cup wheel (more aggressive and doesn't wear out bending easily) in a polisher / sander works great.