Did you have this issue with your Bar?

[xman23]

I cut off at ground level a neighbors 2 huge dead arborvitae. Of course I hit a rock. It dulled up the chain, but I struggled thru it, a lot of smoke and slow going. I normally wouldn't do this but I only had the saw, and no file. 2 years on this chain, a lot of hand filing, it was time for a new one anyway.

So I pulled the bar and found a slight bit of rolled over metal on one side. I think the was on the bottom side. Not both sides of the bottom, just one side. It was hard to see any issue with the with the slot or the two edges being level with each other. I used a flat file to file off the mushroomed metal. It all looked ok, but I haven't tried to saw.

So questions, did I just do this getting the chain hot and a little extra pressure? How much of this can the bar take before It's not cutting straight? I did put this side on the top now.

 

[highanddryinco]

I cut off at ground level a neighbors 2 huge dead arborvitae. Of course I hit a rock. It dulled up the chain, but I struggled thru it, a lot of smoke and slow going. I normally wouldn't do this but I only had the saw, and no file. 2 years on this chain, a lot of hand filing, it was time for a new one anyway.

So I pulled the bar and found a slight bit of rolled over metal on one side. I think the was on the bottom side. Not both sides of the bottom, just one side. It was hard to see any issue with the with the slot or the two edges being level with each other. I used a flat file to file off the mushroomed metal. It all looked ok, but I haven't tried to saw.

So questions, did I just do this getting the chain hot and a little extra pressure? How much of this can the bar take before It's not cutting straight? I did put this side on the top now.

Tom,
Chances are you probably didn't get it that hot this one time given that your oiler is working as it should. The edges are heat treated and are fairly tough. That said, over time you can get the little rolled edge. Don't know how often you flip your bar but it is good practice tha twill help spread out the wear. There are special tools available but you can certainly clean things up quite well with a file. Filing parallel with the bar while keeping your file perpendicular to to the sides will help keep the groove sides level. I wouldn't waste much time there though unless things are really out of whack as you're actually taking precious metal off of your bar. Just file off the little rolls, measure the groove for proper depth and width, install your chain, and get back to making heat. In your stove, not on the bar.

 

[Jags]

Nice post and well said, Hi-N-Dry.
One little trick I have used if you need to flatten the rails is to use a small block of wood (like a 1" by 1" square) on each side of the bar that I hold the file tight to. This holds the file to an exact 180 deg to the bar.

 

[Ashful]

I flip my bar with every chain swap, which is every few hours of use. If you file the chain on the bar, then I guess you need to make a point of removing it to flip the bar from time to time, if you want to even out the wear on your bar and inspect the groove.

Come to think of it, how do those of you who sharpen on the bar clean the bar and oiler holes? I use a hook tool to clean the bar groove on every chain swap, at least twice during a day of cutting, clean the oiler holes, and grease the sprocket nose, as well.

 

[Fifelaker]

I flip the bar at the end of every day. I keep a hacksaw blade and a paint brush in my tool box for cleaning out the bar during the day if it needs it, the brush also cleans the oil and gas caps. I also use the raker file on the bar if it needs it.

 

[xman23]

Since I now sharpen the chain on the bar, it hasn't been flipped in 2 years, maybe 4 cords or more. It used to get flipped every time it got dull and I replaced the chain. Kind of forgot the bar isn't being flipped anymore.

When I got the bar cleaned up and the new chain on, I was looking for a spray of oil onto a log. I had nothing in about 30 seconds of running. I got thinking about this later. My guess was it hadn't pumped enough oil to fill the bar yet. I was going to get back to it before cutting anything. What do you think?

Even though I have the oil feed adjustment on full, it doesn't use a lot of oil, maybe a half a tank of oil for a full tank of gas. I'm thinking I would run the saw without the bar and seen the oil pumping out of the feed tube. Anyone try this?

 

[Ashful]

I usually see oil coming off the nose of the bar within a few seconds of cleaning / swapping a chain. The Stihl oilers are indeed stingy, which is why many always run with them set to max oil.

I forgot to say before, although you've surely already learned, flushing stumps to the ground is awful hard on your saw. Better off to leave a few inches, and let the stump grinder deal with it.

 

[xman23]

I usually see oil coming off the nose of the bar within a few seconds of cleaning / swapping a chain. The Stihl oilers are indeed stingy, which is why many always run with them set to max oil.

I forgot to say before, although you've surely already learned, flushing stumps to the ground is awful hard on your saw. Better off to leave a few inches, and let the stump grinder deal with it.

Yea, I do know better, than doing that 1 inch above the ground cut, but.......... My neighbor came over and said nobody he knew had a running saw. I have no problem helping anyone out when ever I can. When I have to, I cut my stumps off at the ground, I normally don't catch the dirt, just an occasional rock that gets caught up in there when the tree was young. You take out chain but that's chance I take.

 

[highanddryinco]

Since I now sharpen the chain on the bar, it hasn't been flipped in 2 years, maybe 4 cords or more. It used to get flipped every time it got dull and I replaced the chain. Kind of forgot the bar isn't being flipped anymore.

When I got the bar cleaned up and the new chain on, I was looking for a spray of oil onto a log. I had nothing in about 30 seconds of running. I got thinking about this later. My guess was it hadn't pumped enough oil to fill the bar yet. I was going to get back to it before cutting anything. What do you think?

Even though I have the oil feed adjustment on full, it doesn't use a lot of oil, maybe a half a tank of oil for a full tank of gas. I'm thinking I would run the saw without the bar and seen the oil pumping out of the feed tube. Anyone try this?

Yes definitely. That's the best place to start. You shouldn't have to increase RPM off idle and oil should clearly be flowing.

 

[pma1123]

Resurrecting this thread...I pinched the bar on my Stihl pole saw (12" bar, same as MS170) and now the chain has noticeable resistance running through the area that got pinched. What do you recommend to work the width of the groove back out? Or should I just go buy a brand new bar? This thing hasn't even had the paint worn off yet, so I figured I would check in here first for suggestions.

 

[Jags]

There is a tool specific to this application. It may be as easy as taking it to your dealer and have him do a quick workover (takes a minute or two). Otherwise get busy with a fat screwdriver.

 

[duramaxman05]

I have done the same thing out in the woods. I just took my chainsaw tool and used the flat screwdriver end and worked it out. It works fine. I disnt think there was a need to buy another $50 bar